if you were thinking of culturing isopds, you probably already know
that they are cultured both as vivarium janitors
and a supplemental food for herps such as dart frogs and geckos
as well as for invertebrates. The basic care requirements for all terrestrial
species are essentially the same
but each species has some specific characteristics. Knowing these
characteristics can help you decide which species is best for a specific
application. This video will first cover specific information about
dwarf or micro white woodlice, and then provide general culture information
Dwarf white woodlice, also known as micro white isopods Michael White I suppose
as well as other names is scientifically called (Trichorhina tomentosa)
this species may be the most widely-cultured species of isopods
they're quite adaptable and thus are frequently used for a variety of reptile
amphibian and invertebrate enclosures
slightly larger than the Costa Rican micropod
dwarf whites are one of the smaller isopods available
here's a size comparison with several other commonly cultured species
their diminutive size makes them a good choice for tank janitors in a vivarium
where larger isopods would be seen and
eaten by the inhabitants. On the other hand, their size also makes them a good
choice as supplemental food for very small animals such as dart frogs or juvenile
geckos
in my experience, the dwarf white isopod
while definitely an omnivore, tends to be the most interested in meaty foods of all the
species I've kept
it seems to eat protein rich fish food pellets more quickly than other species
and appears to have less of an appetite for oak and maple leaves it will however
eat fruits such as banana or orange
and vegetables. Trichorhina tomentosa is a tropical species
they will survive at room temperature and will even breed in the low 70's
fahrenheit
but they will be much more prolifically at higher temperatures
such as the low to mid eighties fahrenheit they also appreciate quite
moist conditions
perhaps more so than some other isopods such as the giant or Spanish
orange
dwarf whites are parthenogenic in other words the females give birth to more
females without the need to mate
since every individual can produce young these isopods tend to be quite
prolific
they can also establish thriving populations where they weren't
intentionally placed
in fact I obtain my original stock as hitchhikers
that appeared in my orange isopods and springtail cultures
many isopods run immediately when they're
uncovered or disturbed Trichorhina tomentosa especially adults
will often play dead for a short time before trying to escape
this may make them slightly less attractive to predators when they're
first introduced into a vivarium
however after a minute or two they will become active again
all isopods spend much of their time hiding under leaves or pieces of wood
more than most other isopods, dwarf whites also tend to bury themselves in
the substrate
this habit may help maintain a healthy population device apart in a vivarium
populated with animals that prey on them.
general isopod culture information supplies
you will need a culture container a variety of containers will work well
depending on the size of your starter culture a 16-ounce deli cup is a good
size for 20 or fewer individuals
the smaller container will help insure that the isopods can find food
and each other easily if you start with more isopods initially
or once you have a thriving breeding population of isopods
use a larger containers such as this one. An inch or two of coir fiber
also known as coconut fiber or similar substrate. a top layer of substrate
I like to use non-toxic dry fallen leaves optionally you can also add bark
and small pieces of wood
oak and/or maple are suitable for leaves
and word take care to avoid leaves in wood that have been exposed to
pesticides
prior to use all leaves and wood should be baked
200 Fahrenheit to avoid contamination with pest organisms
dechlorinated distilled or R/O water
a calcium source such as pieces of cuttlebone
a starter culture setup
you may choose to ventilate the lid if you do
it is a good idea to stop the holes with filter floss or similar material to
prevent
entry of small flying pests such as fungus gnats
or phorid flies if you prefer you can leave the lid unventilated as long as
you remove the lid daily
or almost daily to add food and water this periodic ventilation will provide
sufficient fresh air
first add the base layer of coir fiber to the container
if needed add water until it is moist but not soggy
when you squeeze it some water should come out but there shouldn't be any
standing water on the bottom of the container
then put in the dry leaves bark and wood
add the cuttle bone give the contents of the container a good misting
add your starter isopods
maintenance to maintain the humidity that isopods require
mist one side of the culture every other day or more frequently if needed
it is a good idea to keep the other side of the culture slightly drier
as it allows the I suppose to self-regulate their moisture needs
though the isopods will eat the leaves bark and wood in the culture
they will also benefit from small amounts of a variety of vegetables and fruit
such as this piece of cooked squash as well as high protein foods
like fish food pellets feed small amounts at first and remove anything
becomes moldy.
replace 1/2 of the substrate about twice per year
or as needed, as some isopods will be present in the substrate you remove you
can use the old substrate to see the culture
harvesting isopods will congregate on pieces of wood
bark or even cardboard, particularly if they're stacked in layers to provide
plenty of crevices
these can then be lifted out, and the isopods can be brushed or
gently shaken into a waiting container
add them directly to your vivarium some isopods may be eaten immediately but
others will survive and breed in your vivarium
to maintain a healthy population it is a good idea to add a quantity of isopods
from the culture container
to the vivarium periodically