Solid hardwood flooring looks great in any home, and it can add to the value of your
house.
We’ll show you how to install solid hardwood flooring.
If you haven’t prepped your floor, do that first. You can learn about that in our subfloor
prep video.
Speaking of subfloors, ¾-inch solid hardwood needs to be installed with nails over plywood,
on or above grade in your home--not in a basement and not directly on concrete.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for specifics.
Here’s a quick overview of the installation. Run the flooring along the length of the room
with an expansion gap at the perimeter—solid hardwood expands and contracts. Stagger the
joints at least 6-inches and also avoid H joints, in other words don’t allow the joints
to line up unless there are at least two rows between them.
It’s smart to calcuate the width of the last row too. If it will be less than 1-inch,
consider cutting the first row by half.
Before you get started, determine how much flooring you’ll need by multiplying the
length times width of the room to get the square footage. Add about 10% extra for any
warped or damaged boards. When you have your flooring, let it acclimate
to the room temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours. Typically, you remove the
flooring from the boxes and stack it in the room. This is a good time to check for any
warped or defective boards. Hold onto them--you can use the bad pieces to help pry the last
row into place. Also you might be able to cut off the damaged parts and use the good
pieces for your install.
When the flooring has acclimated, pick out the straightest boards for the first two rows.
Hold the first board on the starting line you snapped during prep, groove side toward
the wall. Set spacers for the expansion gap—typically ¾-inches. Face nail about ½-inch from the
tongue side, starting about 3-inches from the ends, and generally every 6-inches in
between. We're using an air nail gun, but drill pilot holes if you’re using a hammer
and nail set.
Tap the next piece in place with a tapping block and mallet, and continue face nailing.
You can fill the nail holes with matching floor putty later.
When you get to the end, cut the board to fit. Remember to account for the expansion
gap. Place the board face up, and cut with a flooring blade. Then install. Now blind
nail at a 45-degree angle every six inches. If using a hammer and nails be sure to drill
pilot holes.
To start the second row, push the groove onto the tongue of the first row and tap the boards
together with a tapping block. Keep installing the next few rows this way, staggering the
joints at least 6-inches. It’s a little slow now, but the installation will pick up
once you have enough room to use a flooring nailer.
To use the flooring nailer hold it against the flooring tongue, and hit it with a hammer,
and hit it again, and again, spacing the nails.
Continue installing the rest of the floor, staggering the joints and maintaining the
expansion gaps. Mix boards from different boxes so you don’t have patches of similar
color or grains.
Cut around any obstructions like vents or columns.
When you get to the last few rows where the flooring nailer won’t fit, blind nail where
you can. For the last two rows you’ll have to face nail along the tongue side.
To fit the very last row, cut the pieces-- keeping in mind the expansion gap. Use a pull
bar to wedge the pieces in place. Then face nail.
If the last strip will be less than 1-inch wide, glue it to the previous row.
Finish up by cutting the excess underlayment, filling nail holes with wood putty and reattaching
the baseboards and shoe moulding. Attach the trim to the wall, not the floor. Then attach
the transitions. And it’s finished.
Solid hardwood definitely adds a rich look to this room.
Want more great ideas and how-to’s? Go to Lowes.com/HowTo or click Subscribe.
If you’re looking for another hardwood flooring option, check out How to Install Engineered
Wood Flooring.