Today in part 12 of this series, Dave will show us the tweaks he's made to get the engine running
just right after the bikes first startup. He'll also give us a full budget breakdown on what this
bike actually cost to buy and restore. We filmed a complete tyre change for this video but it was
too long to include so we've uploaded it to our second channel for those of you who want to go
into more detail. The link is in the video description. Let's get started. [Dave] Now
we've got the tyre back on the rim we just need to clean up the spline in the hub. It actually
has got grease in here. Now I was going to use copper slip but because it's got a lot of grease,
and I'm not going to get it all out, I'm going to put grease back in.
We just make sure, well there shouldn't be too much wear, we look for spline wear
and you detect this, I should have shown you before, when you've got a wheel and there's
movement between the sprocket and the wheel itself. But there was none on here. Just give
this a wipe round. We have the spline on here. We just clean round here. We're just going to grab
some grease now. We put some around the spline on there, and we can now put the wheel back in
onto the hub. Two things you've got to make sure about now. That we put the spacer back in.
Let's get that in there first. A bit more. But in here we have a spacer
that has to go there. Then we have the speedo drive. Now try and get in line with the spline
and it's easy to keep the two slots
horizontal. Then the drive which has got the two pegs.
So we push that up on there. That will go home like that. Now we need to lift up onto the spline.
Just make sure the cable doesn't get caught on the exhaust bracket. Lift it up. And you
just have to move it a little bit to find where it's happy to go onto the spline.
If you don't quite get it first time move it around. There you go, that's on the spline now.
Now we have here, the main spindle. Now grease or copper slip. I'm going to put a bit of copper slip
on here now. You can use grease or copper slip, it just means that if you need to take this back out
it comes out easily because you can get water. I've had these where it's tight to undo on the
thread, and then it won't drift out. It won't come out. You should have to pull these out. So if you
lube that up. I haven't buffed it all up because we're going to take it out another time anyway.
But just make sure we've got some lube on there. It makes it easy to push back through the bearings
and it goes through the centre of the hub. So make sure that your spacer is on the inside.
You just hold that up and offer your spindle to the centre. Now just hold your wheel up a little
bit. And don't force it. It should pick up the centre. Now that's, just wiggle it a little bit,
and turn it as you go. Now we should have picked up the thread on the other side.
So just start spinning that round.
Do as much as you can by hand. Just take the weight of the wheel so it's easy to
wind that in. We don't need to do any adjustment on the back wheel because the adjusters are set.
We've only taken it off from this side so what we can do now can just wind this up.
So when we've got this in fully, like now, we just check our speedo. Make sure the cable
is running straight, not kinked, so we keep that line straight. Slightly down here a little bit.
You don't want it right down there, you don't want it right up in the air. So keep that cable
running straight. Right we're just going to do that hand tight now, and spin that wheel,
and you can see the tyre looks okay on that rim. Let me just check the other side.
Okay. Yeah when it comes to tightening the axle, make up something, you've probably
got something you can use to put in there. And just get it as tight as you can by hand.
And what I do then, is just literally just hold on to that and give it a tap.
That's all you need. Before you take your wheel out, this QD hub, just make sure that splines
are good on the hub to the brake drum, because this is a brake drum at the back
and there's no movement at all. We looked at it just now and it was in good order. But I've
had this in the past where there's been a bit of movement, and I've had to reduce,
there's a spacer inside the hub itself, I had to spin that, turn it down on the lathe, take a bit
more off so that the QD hub goes further onto the brake drum. It wasn't sitting properly on
the splines. It wasn't going in properly. But that's good. And you're just checking that.
That's good and central. That's good. No play in the wheel bearings. There we go. We're done.
Right, since we had the bike going I will explain to you what we've been doing to it. The most
important thing was the ignition timing, just to make sure that it was correct. Well I don't do a
run up with a strobe at high rpm. Now when we set this up we set it up with the degrees before TDC.
34 degrees I think it was. So when we run the bike up I noticed it was running a little bit rich.
The most important thing really before you start setting up your carburation is get the ignition
timing correct. If you adjust that carb out and this is still retarded, you're still not going to
get the right carburation. A retarded ignition will have the symptoms of being over rich.
So what I was doing on here was, I showed you, we've slackened these two screws off and we can
turn the ignition assembly. Now when we set up this ignition as static we had a line on the
rotor, we had the mark on the actual module itself here which was the A mark, I think it was now.
They were in line. But when we ran this bike up, like I say, it was a little bit rich. I noticed
the timing was a bit retarded. So by slackening off the two screws, top and bottom, and turning
this assembly in a clockwise direction, I actually advance the timing up slightly.
Now if you've over advanced that ignition timing, when you kick start this, you get compression and
you kick the kickstarter down, and it'll go bang. It'll come up. It almost kicks back. You know on
the Gold Star when we've had it over advanced, it's kicked back. And one good kick, it should go.
That's slightly over advanced. Now because it was very retarded, I just moved it round a little bit.
It wasn't a lot. And just pinched the screws up and started it again. It's a lot smoother,
crisp, and then I moved it back again, a little bit to where it was the first time. I just need
to find the best position where it's not going to kick me back, but it's not running retarded. This
is how I do it. You get the best setting just before it starts kicking back. You can feel it.
Now when we kick this over, you can push a kickstarter down, you can almost push it over
compression, and she'll go into life and she'll run very smooth. It's not running really retarded.
I don't want to run this engine up high rpm on a strobe because, you know, when you're
doing this stuff all the time you get to know where it should be and where it should sound.
You get that feel for an engine. So yeah, over advanced it will kick back. If it's over retarded,
it won't pick up, it'll be quite flat. And if you try to adjust out the carburetion it'd be quite
rich. The plugs would probably be a bit sooty. So getting that, just moving that a fraction,
it wasn't far out, just move that slightly in advanced direction, I smoothed that engine out.
So that's the first thing we've done. Then just lock the screws off. Now on the pilot air screw,
when that screw is screwed in, it screws into a taper. And what it does,
it reduces the air. So when the screw is right into the taper at the bottom, there'd be no
air at all. So it's going to be just fuel, very rich. You unscrew this. So it's in for richness,
out for weakness. So the more you screw that out, the weaker that will run. Some carburetors,
Japanese carbs, are the other way around. So preset is about one and a half.
Now the throttle slide in there and the needle, I pushed the
clip to hold the needle in the centre position. But it actually jumped one hole.
The needle was slightly too high. It meant too much fuel because it's tapered. So what
we've done, we took the slide out and dropped the needle down one notch. So it's less fuel.
And because this was a little bit retarded, this was making it run a little bit lumpy.
It took several kicks to get it going each time. It shouldn't be like that.
That screw now is set about one and a half. Now that gives you a slow running speed.
That's what's controlling your mixture at low rpm, when the slide is at the bottom,
until you pick the slide up, it's actually quite a way because then it comes onto the main needle,
but you get your carburation right on your pilot air screw. And if it's quite lumpy,
you do it when the engine's warm. It's a combination, screwing the screw in,
will make it run richer because it's closing up the taper. If you get it too far out,
when you open up the throttle it will die on you. You want it to have a tick over where it's
just slightly rich, slightly, because then it snaps away nicely. And obviously you've got your
throttle stop screw here, the idle screw. So it's getting that right. But we'll run
it up in the moment. We'll put the cover back on, and you'll see how different it runs now.
Yeah these pipes as you can see are discoloured. There's a colour change
here. Now single skin pipes do this a little bit. But an over retarded ignition setup,
if it's over retarded and that engine has been run fairly high rpm, they will blue up.
A retard engine runs hot, and this is the indication you get, the pipe gets very blue. This
has been discolored for a long time. The other thing, over advanced, I think I've said it before,
if you open the throttle up hard you get that sound like a ting ting ting ting in the top of
the engine. It almost sounds like a small end, it's like a knock knock knock knock.
And that's where it's over advanced. So what you could do when you've got this sort of setup, is
you come back, take your cover off, and you just retard it a little bit. Just turn it a little bit.
The best thing is, you've got both screws. Undo the first screw, just nip it off. And make sure
you hold the module when you undo the second one because the wire there might pull and it might
turn. You want to make sure when you slacken the second screw off it hasn't moved. If you just
unscrew both, it might have moved and you won't know where you are. You're going to have to start
all over again. So be very careful with that. But over advanced, you get pinking.
Retarded, over retarded, you get discoloured pipes, and a lot of excessive heat in the
engine. And you can get like sooty plugs on tick over. And it won't tick over very well. But yeah,
we're going to run this up for you, now drop it down on the floor, and you'll see the difference.
I'm just going to show you a hot start now. Ignition on, just find compression.
Okay so the bike is finished, it's done as an Everyday Bike. The purchase price of the bike,
I'll be honest with you, was £2,000. And as you remember,
I explained the bike had been dismantled. The engine was out. Basically it was all there.
Now my intention was to put it back together and use it as a daily bike,
to go to work on. Didn't intend to spend any more than necessary. I didn't cut corners, but it's not
like I was doing a full restoration. I was using all the materials that were good and serviceable.
So when we went to assemble the crankcase, we found some studs. The threads were damaged,
so they were repaired. New studs made. We used the original main bearings,
and big air bearing shells. They were fine there was no wear. We run with a pump on here.
There was no metal discoloration and the white metal was still as new. So we started to build the
engine up, and the parts I'll show you in a moment that have been listed here on my phone. It's been
a good bike to put back together because, you know, when you buy something all in bits you don't
know whether it's all there or not. Only thing I had to find was for the oil pump. Was a little
ball and spring. Everything else was there. Okay we put some new bits in. Now I'll list to you now,
what I've got on my phone. We had a gasket set. We had a ring set, 20 thou oversize. We
had a kickstarter pinion gear because the gear was quite worn. I think people remember that. It's a
tab washer kit for the engine. The cylinder head valves we had four new valves, two inlets, two
exhaust valves. And we had valve guides, new valve guides. Oil pump boarding spring, which I just
explained. Fuel tank centre rubber. There was a rubber missing. That's one thing that was missing,
sorry, on the cycle parts that goes on the, it's a bolt from the centre of the frame. So we fitted a
new rubber in there. New fuel lines, which I had, sorry. The fuel pipes I had already in my stock.
Engine oil, gearbox oil, and primary chaincase oil which I had. New rear tyre tube. We just fitted today.
And basically all the parts in total came to £370. So with the purchase price £2000, we're looking at
£2370 which I think was a pretty good deal really on a bike that is really worth a little bit of
money now. But there are other things that everyone knows. The rims aren't fantastic.
There's a dink in the front rim and also in the back rim. Now I think the bike's worth putting
new rims on later, at a later date. I'm going to use the bike and a later stage when I'm not busy
I'll put new rims, and new spokes, stainless steel spokes. And we've put some new rubber as well,
new tyres. We'll put some decent tyres, some Road Riders on there probably. Other than that, really,
she's everything as is she's going to be. Might replace some of the rubbers like footrest rubbers
and the kickstarter rubber, but everything else is good. So we're very lucky. Oh, silencers. The
down pipes and the silencers. They're a little bit knocked around. They sound nice these silences but
we might put some new ones on there later on. But actually, I quite like the bike. I didn't
think I would fall in love with it but it's not a bad bike. I should imagine it's quite responsive,
it's got quite a high first gear as you've probably seen just now.
So yeah, it's really good. It starts really easily, you know, it's a one kick start now.
But just after getting the ignition set up properly in the carburation, we're there.
So yeah, all round good bike. Gone together really well.