Kevin mirrorless cameras and today we're gonna be getting you up to speed on the
viewfinder settings eight tips that may or may not blow your mind and are
definitely gonna help you focus more on composition and less on what settings
and what exposure you're at coming up
so in this video we're gonna cover how do you set up your viewfinder settings
so that you can have a histogram a grid a level exposure compensation how to
move your focus points very quickly exposure simulation and we're gonna show
you how to use viewfinder magnification along with a button setup that you
should be using at the end so stick around for all of it we got some great
stuff coming up so first off what I'm going to show you is going to help you
move all your information from your screen to your viewfinder and that's
going to help you be able to focus on composition more and be able to see in
troubleshoot so much faster without having to move your face away from the
screen so up first is how to get it from your screen to your viewfinder all
you're gonna do is when you come up so they're a little bit separate this your
viewfinder has the exact same settings as this however normally your viewfinder
comes out with a blank screen and it only shows you the bottom shutter speed
ISO and f-stop settings with the exposure composition but when you come
in here and you press the info button when your face is up there you press the
info button info button and it has three toggle settings that you can put it for
and I will show you up next where exactly you can go in and switch what
gets toggled when so everything that you're gonna need to know for the
beginning of this video is going to be found in the wrench under number four
and shooting info display so that's what you're gonna go to and on here you have
a few different options we're not going to go into shooting info display right
off the bat but shooting display performance will do one of two things
when you go in there it will give you smoother images for faster moving
objects which will take up more energy from your battery or you can have the
power saving on which will allow you to have more battery life but less
performance for fast-moving objects the next one I recommend is keeping the help
text size on small rather than standards so the the actual subject that you're
trying to shoot isn't being as crowded with information okay now we're gonna go
into the first slider under the wrench number four which is shooting info
display now what this is gonna have it's gonna toggle all the different things
that you can do when you go into the first setting it gives you all the
different options that you can have for the toggle so if you go into there so
you can turn off settings that you don't want like the histogram or the grid but
I like to keep the grid on the 3x3 and thee and then you can go into histogram
display I have mine set to brightness because I find it much more useful to
hit exposure right than have to worry about the colors that
are coming through because I'm shooting in RAW which allows me to move those
colors around very easily if I so choose the histogram can come in two sizes
which is large and small I have mine set to small because in the viewfinder it
takes up a large amount of real estate as you are looking through the
viewfinder not as big of a problem when you are looking through the back screen
but when you look through the viewfinder the histogram takes up a lot of real
estate when it is not large or setting another useful feature is you can have
the level as you shoot and shoot up here this gives you the ability to have the
well you're much more steady when you're looking through the viewfinder and much
more able to align things and then being able to make sure your picture is level
every single time because it's easier when you're in the viewfinder to kind of
get caught in framing it and that will bring you back to keeping your photos
level there's nothing worse than accidentally taking a photo where your
camera is somewhat sideways and then trying to crop it level and cutting off
someone's head so normally your EOS R is set up to have exposure simulation
set up on it but if you got it secondhand that this might be turned off
so to turn that back on you're gonna want to go into the red camera number 3
and it's going to be exposure simulation enable this will allow you to see it as
you change your settings so as you lower the shutter speed your image will get
brighter and that will be the exact image that
you get as you turn up your ISO your image will get brighter or lower as you
lower it and you will be able to see exactly how your image will turn out
before you take it with the exception of having a flash and low-light photography
I have a video about why you might want to turn this off at any time while
you're doing low-light photography this setting is one of the things that makes
mirrorless cameras so awesome so these next two are more of functionality than
having things that show you what's happening with your photo so while
you're in the viewfinder being able to move the focus points without actually
moving your face away to touch the screen which is very fast inefficient
however if you just wanted to scoot it over the fastest way I've found so
you're taking the focus point from here and scooting it over instantly the
viewfinder or the focus points so you're gonna press the focus points button and
then while you're up in the viewfinder you're gonna press the focus points and
then use the wheel and that is instantly gonna spin your focus point to the right
there isn't a fast way to move it up but that will be able to allow you to frame
to the left or the right easier and then just compensate for up-and-down which is
significantly easier than moving over and then recompose and moving over and
recomposing it's moving out one of those steps and that's a very quick way to
recompose your image and your focus point without having to pull it away
from your face next is a viewfinder magnification so you're gonna press the
star button and then info info info well just twice info the last one brings it
back to the normal so this is going to allow you to zoom in 10 times so 5 times
magnification and then 10 times magnification than normal and it will
take the entire picture and then that make sure that the eye is perfectly in
focus or whatever your micro photography is this is a very quick and easy way to
make sure that you absolutely nail focus and it takes almost no time it's 3
button clicks with your thumb so while we're on the subject the most useless
button on this thing is this slider it sounds like a really great idea but if
you use it and you're using the viewfinder as much as what I do now that
I have these setup you were going to be bumping this
like mat it's normally set to is oh but I have a video here that shows you
exactly what buddy button settings you should have so that you can easily
change your ISO just as fast as what this lever would have done so that it's
not messing up your photography links right there there's another videos on
this channel we go over everything mirrorless Canon cameras if you like
this don't forget to Like and subscribe my name is Daniel thank you so much for