Ok so today we’re working on a Jeep Grand Cherokee.
The track bar on it has been giving some play.
Let me show you the track bar.
So this is the track bar right here.
It starts with this mount, comes up, curves up around here, and ends up right here attached
to the frame.
So when I’m turning, this bearing right here has about probably like a millimeter,
probably two millimeters of play in it.
So when I hit a bump, it doesn’t quite catch.
Like it doesn’t stabilize the car, so it just starts like what you call the “death
wobble”.
So I’m replacing the track bar and hopefully that will fix it.
There are a few other things that it might be, but usually with the “death wobble”
I’ve heard that 85-90% of the time it’s the track bar that’s doing it.
So I took it to Les Schwab and they quoted me probably about 300 bucks to fix it.
Then I went to O’Reilly Auto Parts and got my own track bar for about 70-80 bucks.
What comes with it is just the track bar itself, this is the part that connects to the frame
over there, and that goes up into the mounting block we were just looking at.
So it will be tighter there on that little hole.
And then you have these little connectors as well which just basically makes it so you
can fill it up with grease so it runs smoothly and stuff.
Anyway, so that’s what we’ll be doing today.
Get the lower point off; pretty simple to detach it’s just a 15mm bolt.
It was up in there; I just unscrewed it and dropped it out.
It’s kind of nice because it has this little gizmo in here that holds the other nut steady
so it makes it a lot easier.
Now this other end is the one that’s going to be more difficult.
Up inside of there, there’s a bolt with a cotter pin inside.
I’m going to show you picture.
It’s going to be a lot harder to get out.
So basically where I’m at right now is that cotter pin, you can kind of see the very end
of it sticking out through that little bracket right there.
I’m just trying to get that out.
Sprayed some WD-40 in there, kind of straightened the cotter pin to just pull it out.
Still working on it.
Alright, finally got that little guy out.
Now we got to use one of these guys, I think it’s called like a pickle bar or something
like that.
Anyway, basically all you do is you just tack it up in there.
It’s kind of like a pry bar of sorts and you just pop that whole thing down.
Hit this thing with a hammer a few times and it will release that joint and drop the track
bar off.
Finally got it out.
What I found worked best is coming at it from…well I had to level it out so I put that end back
in, just barely tacked it.
And on this end I came at it from a level side, like almost from the driver side wheel
a popped it out that way.
That was the easiest way.
It’s kind of hard to get a good swing at it with a hammer but hey, it’s out.
Whatever works right?
Ok, so it’s important when you’re installing the thing to make sure you start with this
side over here by the passenger end.
The reason is because this end is solid.
The other end on it has a pivot head so even if you’re not completely lined up with the
hole you can move the head around to fit inside of it.
So start with the other end and end up with this end with the pivot head on it.
Once you’re tightening it down, I believe it’s supposed to go to 25-35 foot pounds
of torque and then the other one end up at 45-50.
People were saying online that they start to break off at 55 pounds of torque and you
know that’s not where you want to be.
So I think that’s about it.
You know once you tighten them down you’re good to go.
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you.