Hi! Akiyo and Ikedai!
Ikedai: What's up today? Akiyo: Today I'm gonna give a lesson of "Heel Hook".
Tomoa: I'm filming this time. Ikedai: Good to go.
Akiyo: I use my shoe to explain.
Heel hook is a technic that you use a heel part of your shoe to stabilize food and body position.
Earlier, Tomoa did the lesson for toe hook.
Basically, "Toe Hook" and "Heel Hook" are two major foot technic.
This time I am teaching you how to heel hook.
To start, I want you to understand important points about heel hook.
There are many types of heel hook.
Type one: When a hold is good (良) and bad (悪).
If your foot hold is good (良), a flexibility (柔軟性) of your ankle (足首) and hip joints (股関節) is important.
Most likely women and kids are good at this type of heel hook.
On the other hand, if your foot hold is very bad (悪), very thin and small, or in case of heel hooking on volume surface,
stability (安定性) of hip joints (股関節) is important.
Stability (Anteisei 安定性) is is is....
Well!! Having stability (安定性) means that you upper body or trunk of the body must be fixed or locked (固定度) to make a move.
So as your foot hold gets bad (悪), you need more power.
If your foot hold is good (良), you do not need much power (力).
You can absorb energy with your ankle (足首) and hip joints (股関節) and do heel hook.
So upper body (上半身) or trunk of the body (体幹) can be more free. (自由度)
This heel hook is useful when you do lead climbing and have a rest.
You can rest your arms by heel hooking on a good hold.
In case of heel hooking when your foot hold is bad (悪), it's not so easy. I cannot teach you in short period because it's about strength of an upper body (上半身) or trunk of the body (体幹).
You need continuous training and make your body strong. (力)
So today, I teach you heel hook on a technical side. (技術)
Tips about how to heel hook on holds.
ホールド良 Good Hold ホールド悪Bad Hold (Jug, Crimp, Pinch, etc.) (Sloper, Volume, etc.) <------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> 柔軟性Flexibility [Ankle -hip joints] 安定性Stability 足首・股関節
自由度高More Free [Upper Body, Trunk] 自由度低Less Free 上半身・体幹 テクニックTechnic フィジカルPhysical
Here is a problem for heel hook. I explain how.
First, I show a type that you need to lock hip joint using power.
Tomoa: It looks so hard one....lol
Tomoa: Beast!!
From another camera angle.
2nd, I show a type when heel hooking hold is a jug.
You put your weight on hold by using hip joint, then!
It is most important that
you move toe angle without changing the pressure on hold.
And slightly move your toe like this.
You should put a weight equally on an ankle and hip joint.
Akiyo: Come on! lol
Ikedai: Shall I do the same move?
Ikedai: Like this. Hook a heel. Move toe in this way.
Tomoa: Look nice. What??!
Tomoa: Is he a master of heel hook?
Akiyo: mmmm, he's not flexibility one. It's rigidness of a hip joint.
?? Isn't he a master?? Ikedai: Yes, I am.
Tomoa: You got praised! Ikedai: Yes!!
Akiyo: OK. Let's try another pattern.
Here we have a problem with a small tiny hold.
Let me attempt.
In this pattern, you also do not change the pressure on a hold.
Important thing is when your heel hooking point is obvious like this yellow small one,
other leg position is not so much matter.
You can naturally let your other leg down.
You should only focus on left hip joint, then you can stabilize your position.
Tomoa: Here is Ikedai to try! Ikedai: Wasn't listening the lesson....
Tomoa: Were you sleeping???
Ikedai: Right leg is not important. Akiyo: No.
Tomoa: Axis of hooking. Akiyo: Focus on left heel.
Akiyo: Put your weight on heel hooking point is important.
Tomoa: You're good. Akiyo: Well done.
Tomoa: He must be No.1 on the exam.
Ikedai: So easy!
Akiyo: Alright! Now I will tell you my tips when you're heel hooking on a jug or point hold.
Tip No.1:
Interlocking of an ankle and hip joint is important when you heel hook.
This might be a difficult explanation though.
You need to simultaneously move your ankle and hip joint.
Tomoa: You rotate an angle of ankle?
Akiyo: Rotate an ankle. Down a toe. That's important.
If you do not do so,
you're body position would be like this. (Body axis is unbalanced without moving an ankle and hip joint.)
Tomoa: I fully agree. I used to be like that.
Akiyo: Your body weight stays on right leg and not transfer to left, so the body also stays on right side.
However, let you body weight axis moves from right to left side by changing an angle of toe.
Then, you would have a stable body position. Your body is on left foot.
Tomoa: You are not focusing on heel hooking point?
Akiyo: You should be rather focusing on a toe angle. Like this way or that way. Movement of a toe is very important.
[Not rotating ankle] It's like this.
[Rotating ankle] It's like this.
From the original hooking position,
you should change an angle to this way or other way.
This small angle change is extremely important.
You set a heel, then from that point, down toe, rotate toe etc.
You will find out the benefit of it, if you practice.
Akiyo: Now I teach you hip joints exercise which is effective for heel hook.
Open your leg and be like a frog.
You move back and forth.
As you move,
you may find some irregular point on left or right hip joint.
You need smoothly move. Shake joints and you'll get it.
If you are already good at the previous exercise,
lay the body and hip joints prone and touch the floor with your legs.
This has both stretching effect and training, so please try.
Akiyo: It was my first climbing lesson. How was it?
Please try heel hook moves with my advises.
Ikedai: If you liked our video, please like us and keep subscribing.
Bye-bye!
Akiyo: Let's do another pattern!!
Tomoa & Ikedai: Hurry up!
English subtitle by FreiHeit