If you have downloaded your first pattern
You're ready for the next stage - Cutting Out
This video shows you how to lay out your pattern and cut your fabric
I have cut a pattern to half scale just to show you how to lay out the pieces
I have also cut a piece of denim fabric to the same scale
This particular denim is 54” wide which is roughly 140cm
Everyone loves denim. This one is a bit special
It has 3% Lycra which really hugs the figure
This is the length wise grain of the fabric
and this is the cross wise grain
The edge of the fabric is called the selvedge
It doesn’t fray and it can be used for trimming
For the majority of layouts you fold the fabric in half
with the right side to the inside
My Pinafore Dress Pattern consists of a skirt and a separate bodice
The centre front o f the skirt and the bodice
have to be placed on a fold
There is a seam down the centre back with an invisible zip that comes to about here
and that just leaves the pockets which are optional
All we have to do now is just pin the pattern to the fabric
I like to us a pin cushion to keep my pins tidy
Don’t use a magnet
I've always found you pick up ten at a time once they’re magnetised
Pin each piece all the way round keeping the pattern nice and flat
Make sure you leave enough space in between the pieces for your seam allowance and for the hem
Before pinning each piece down just check that it’s aligned along the straight grain
Use a tape measure or a ruler
to check that the grain line is parallel with either the selvedge edge or the folded edge
Before you do any cutting out, make sure that you’ve left enough room for the seam allowances
and for the hem
I always try to cut with economy in mind I don’t like to waste fabric
If I’m going to have bits left over I’d rather they were large bits
which I can use for a new project
So it is often better to fold the fabric differently
This layout leaves you with two thin strips that you can’t do anything with
Instead of folding your fabric in half fold it just enough to get your pattern pieces on
At least then you have a nice wide strip that you can use as a waist band
or cut some pockets or even cover some buttons
But make sure that your fold is parallel to the selvedge
so that everything is still on the straight grain
A few words about equipment You don’t need very much
Just a decent tape measure
Some pins
Chalk is good
This is a clever gadget for keeping your chalk sharp
A gauge like this one is useful
It helps you with all the little measurements that seem so common when you’re dressmaking
A pair of cutting out scissors Keep them just for fabric
Paper is inclined to blunt them
Let's start cutting out for real
Don’t forget to mark your hem before you cut out your skirt pieces
Err on the side of long You can always cut it shorter
To start with you might want to measure your seam allowances
The standard is ⅝” You can always add a bit more for fitting
But it won’t be long before you can just cut it by eye
Double check everything before you start cutting
It really is that easy to get your pattern cut out
You don’t need to follow a plan
Fit the pieces on the fabric how you like
You may decide to use a contrast fabric for the skirt and bodice
That way you can use up remnants
Or perhaps some contrasting pockets
What ever you do will be totally original
True Couture!
Next we need to transfer the markings from pattern to fabric
Look out for my next two videos
which will show you the best methods
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Sewing Patterns in size 6-22