It’s Friday, and it’s time for another beauty edu.
Today we’re going to talk about foundations, cause I don’t know about you, but I know
I’ve been guilty of putting on the wrong foundation sometimes.
Like I put it on, and realized it’s too heavy, or the opposite, I’m trying to cover
up something like a red mark or zit, only to realize later when I look at the photos
that it didn’t cover up anything at all!
Today we’re going to talk about foundation and coverage.
At the end of this video, I’m going to share the one thing that I think all foundations
need to have.
We need our foundation to do two things.
One, it needs to match our skintone, because we want out head to match the rest of our
body, and the other thing is we need to provide coverage, and coverage is the amount of color
that conceals our skin.
Shade is produced by 3-4 different pigments.
These pigments are iron oxides, like black, umber, which is a brown, russet, which is
not a potato, that’s the color red and titanium dioxide - that is not an iron oxide, that’s
its own thing. That is a white color.
Coverage is mostly determined by the amount of titanium dioxide, with the percentage of
overall pigment.
Let’s go through the degrees of coverage.
There is about 4.
There is sheer coverage, which is five percent pigment or less.
So here it’s going to be more transparent, there’s going to be less pigment, and what
it’s going to do is it’s going to minimize some of the discoloration, but, it’s not
going to hide anything.
Next up is light coverage.
Light coverage is 5% to 10% pigment.
It’s going to cover up slight unevenness, blotchiness, and discoloration, but it is
not opaque enough to color a freckle, so keep that in mind.
If you want to up your game you can go to medium coverage.
That is 10-15% pigment, so here you’re getting a lot more pigment, and you’re showing a
little less skin, and it’s going to cover up things like discolorations, blotchiness,
unevenness, freckles and those red marks left by pimples.
Let’s say you want to cover up something really opaque, then you’re going to go for
full coverage, and that is 15% pigment or more.
Sometimes this is called corrective or camouflage makeup, and the word camouflage really makes
me laugh, because it makes me feel like we’re crawling through the jungles of nam and applying
out foundation as we go along.
This is going to cover things like birthmarks, vitiligo, hyperpigmentation and scars.
It provides a great amount of coverage, you’re just not going to see a lot of skin here.
So I am going to pause here and ask . . . did you know the different levels of coverage?
Is there a cosmetic company or brand that’s providing a certain type or level of coverage
really well.
Now let’s talk about how coverage impacts the type of coverage that we choose.
So over here I have my trusty loose powder, which I use almost every day, but this is
going to be sheer at best.
And what’s interesting is it’s those 3-4 pigments that I talked about combined with
some filler.
Filler are things like talc, and cornstarch.
They have a low refractive index, and what that means is that they’re going to be mostly
transparent, and they’re there to provide bulk to the formulation.
Let’s take a look at another product I have.
Let’s say we took those same 3-4 pigments and we added some water or some silicones
and oils, you’d have something like this!
And so the bulk of this formulation is the pigments… it’s maybe, 60-80% water, and
about 20% oils.
When I want a little more coverage I tend to spring for something like this.
. . . this is my compact foundation, and this is the same 3-4 pigments, but it has less
filler, and it has more binders in it. . .and binders are these compounds that allow the
ingredients to bind together so they stick in the container.
Sometimes you’ll see these products in powder form, sometimes you’ll see them
in more cream form.
This is another version of it.
A more waxy base.
And these will provide anywhere from medium to full coverage depending on the type of
product.
In the cosmetic world, they call what we wipe off and we put onto the sponge, they call
that pay-off.
. . that is another funny word that really makes me laugh… because we work to get the
makeup off, but we get paid off by getting some color on the sponge.
Lucky us!
Now I said I was going to share one thing that I thought all foundations needed and
that is to put the level of coverage on the product!
There are so many products that I see, that don’t list the level of coverage… and
that drives me bonkers!
I don’t know how you feel about it, but let me know in the comments section below.
I would love to hear from you.
Instead, what they do… is use all this marketing speak to refer to coverage … so with a full
coverage product for example, they will say things like… invisible, infallible, camera
ready, performance makeup, but I’m like…hashtag, just tell me the level of coverage already.
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I will see you guys later...have a great day!