(heavy beat music)
- Hey, this is Davin with Redline Rebuild updates.
Today, I'm gonna tear down this 440 Chrysler motor
for our 1937 Ford race car that Tom helped us pull down.
Unfortunately, he's not here
to help us pull down this engine,
but, hey, it's gonna be fast and furious anyway.
Well, except for this part of it,
'cause this slows me down.
At the end of the day, this is about an hour task
to pull this motor down to nothing,
and of course using only hand tools and no impact wrenches,
it'll take a little bit longer
and some stuff to reset the cameras and whatnot,
but regardless, it'll be pretty straightforward,
and here we roll,
there's gonna be a lot of me doing this
and probably not a lot of talking
unless I come up with something that's unique
and interesting, so.
- [Assistant] Or broken.
- Or broken. That's correct.
So here we go.
(upbeat rock music)
Flat tops.
A little bound relief. That.
A little bit horrible compression there.
Unless these are obnoxiously.
Chamber (murmurs).
All right, so as you see we have our heads off of the block
and a couple of things I'm looking at
as I disassemble things
or what the condition of the parts are
and indicators of problems on a motor
that I have no idea if it ran,
how long ago, blah, blah, blah.
So one of the things I noticed right off the bat
is on these springs,
you can see they're all kind of a purplish color
until you get to this one that's blue,
and that one's kind of blue,
and when you look at the other head,
you have quite a few of them that are blue
and a couple that are purple.
So purple is most likely the normal color, if you will,
and blue is a good indicator that this specific spring
on this head got warm at some point in time,
and that's typically because
there's not getting the cooling effect relative to oil.
So one of the things I'm gonna look closely at
is making sure I have no issues with oil flow
coming up the push rods and into the rocker area
and to be able to cool these valves real well.
Now, one thing I don't see
that usually is a typical sign too of lack of oiling
is the top of this valve stem
is not all chewed up or beat over.
So that just may be how
that particular spring took the heat,
but most likely it's because it was warm at one point.
Now the other thing I noted relative to the heads
are there're two different casting numbers.
One's actually from a 68 to 70, 440,
and one is from a 76 to a 78, 440.
Now the 440s ran from, I think it was 65 up to 78,
and so we've got kind of a mismatch
as far as the heads are concerned,
but they are the same head,
meaning they have the same valve
and roughly the same characteristics
as far as the ports are concerned.
This one is, one is an 81 and a half,
and one's about a 79 on the combustion chamber,
but ultimately they will both flow with some porting.
They'll flow into the 312 number
is what I've been seeing real quickly.
And with that, 312 CFM on an intake,
multiply that times two,
that gives you a pretty good number
for where your horsepower can be,
which would be about 600 horse,
which would be pretty impressive for a car
that just gonna basically drive around on the street
and see a little track life.
Now that would look really nice and go really well
on this 1971 block based on the date code.
(upbeat rock music)
All right, so something that we notice here
from our past experience pulling other motors apart,
especially stock ones,
we can tell that this motor has been apart before,
and it has been balanced actually
because factory-wise there would not be a slug
pushed in here and welded in,
and then likewise,
some of the extra machining relative to the counterbalances
to do the balancing function,
and then also the ends of the rods have been ground,
and that is to match weight relative to each assembly.
And then, of course, they've all been punched
as far as numbers, as far as the whole are concerned.
So unlike most of them,
we got a pretty good start here.
(upbeat rock music)
All right. So here's where I'm at.
I'm having an issue getting the camshaft out.
Sometimes your bushings will be holding it up
or the bearings will be holding it up.
So I gave it a couple of light taps,
but realized that I had something else
that was holding it into place
or stopping it from coming out,
and since we did not have a fuel pump on here,
I completely forgot about the fact
that the pump rod is still here.
So this pump rod is actually
what's holding the camshaft from sliding out.
♪ Wala ♪
Hey, you can see we've got it completely tore down.
We didn't find anything too crazy.
We do have two mismatched heads
as far as date and casting number are concerned.
So we'll work through that detail.
Piston rod assemblies look good.
Bearings actually look pretty decent.
Crank is not tore up.
So that's all good signs. Our block looks good.
We also learned that Mopar did a very nice job
of date coding all their stuff, specifically on the block.
This thing was built on the third day of January of 1972.
It's clear and precisely written right here,
and it was even on the night shift.
Pretty interesting, if you're into that sort of thing,
of course, otherwise, like I said,
it's all tore down. It's looking good.
We got a few things we need to finish,
like tearing down the head and disassembling here and there
before we take everything over to ThoroughB's.
But most importantly,
we're gonna use our Gladiator parts washer
and get all this oil off and clean it up.
So they'll be impressed when we bring it over to them.
As always, get out in the shop, get your work done.
There's a beautiful day out there waiting for ya. See ya.
(coughs)