Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we'll learn all about
polka dots in classic menswear and maybe unravel the mystery of Polka-Dot Man while we're at it.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
There are many patterns in classic menswear - glen check, houndstooth, windowpanes, stripes, paisleys, and
yes, polka dots. Polka dots might not be as common today as they were in the past, but they are a
versatile and visually interesting pattern with a pedigree in classic menswear that can complement
casual and formal outfits alike. Polka-Dot Man, on the other hand, is a villain from the DC Multiverse
who first appeared in Detective Comics #300 in the 19...
[from behind the camera]: "Preston! Focus on the script or you're fired!"
Okay. Sorry, sorry!
The polka dot pattern can assume many forms and be employed in different ways throughout
classic menswear - as well as in the title sequence for the first James Bond film.
[title sequence from "Dr. No"]
But, getting back to menswear, you'll learn everything you need to know about polka dots
in today's video. In simplest terms, polka dots are any array of circles. They're often, but not always
of the same size and they can be arranged in a regular or irregular pattern. Many dot patterns
in menswear can be considered subtypes of polka dots like pin dots, micro dots, macro dots, and the
"flying buzz saw-dot," Polka-Dot Man's weapon of choice, which I guess is more of a projectile
than a pattern. In order to qualify as a polka dot though, the dots must be intentional. In other words,
the unique dotted effect provided by blending two different tones of yarns - as we do in some
of our Fort Belvedere socks - isn't technically considered a polka dot nor are non-dot repeating
patterns like the ones you see here. With that said though, patterns like these can of course be styled
similarly to polka dots in your outfits. Purists will sometimes go one step further and argue that
polka dots can only be of one specific size. But, considering how closely this pattern is associated
with whimsy and fun, it feels a little wrong to be such a stickler when it comes to polka dots.
So, we prefer embracing the broader definition that includes most dot patterns. As with any menswear
pattern though, we've also got some history to cover. So, let's do that now. Dotted patterns were
actually fairly uncommon for most of menswear history; partly because sewing dots was a time
and labor intensive process and also because spots were associated with skin conditions and diseases
like leprosy or the bubonic plague. Reasonably then, people of this time probably didn't want to
associate these kinds of things with their clothes. By the 18th century though, innovations in textile
manufacturing saw polka dots rise to prominence. In fact, some sources identify noted fashion icon
and proto-influencer, Beau Brummell, as one of the earliest adopters of polka dots in menswear.
In Brummell's time though, the name "polka dots" hadn't yet been "adotted" - uh, sorry - adopted.
[heckler]: "Boo, you suck!"
The pattern was simply referred to as "dotted" until the 19th century; at which time the name
"polka dots" was chosen to capitalize on the popularity of the polka
dance craze that was sweeping Europe and North America at the time.
♪ "Polka Dot" by Weird Al Yankovic ♪
Not quite like that. Although, we are Weird Al fans. Polka originated as a Czech folk dance, whose
bouncy steps and sprightly tunes were integrated into European social dance. Hoping to capitalize
on the popularity of the dance then, tailors began referring to dotted patterns as "polka dots." It's
possible this referenced the roundness of the dots themselves as well as the circular steps
in many variations of the polka. Note the circular rotations of the couples and the larger circles
that they form as the Stanford Viennese Ball opening committee dances the Auf der Jagd polka.
I suppose Raphael might critique my pronunciation, but that's what I get for trying to "polka" the bear.
[scene from "The Office"] Michael: "No! God!"
While the polka itself fell out of popularity by the late 19th century,
polka dots hung on as a popular choice for menswear accessories well into the 20th century.
For the most part, they appeared on smaller items like ties, scarves, pocket squares, and
socks. Sir Winston Churchill was famous for his polka dot tie from Turnbull & Asser,
and perhaps he inherited his love of the pattern from his father,
Lord Randolph Churchill. And while today we often associate polka dots more with clowns,
children, or as more of a feminine pattern, it was historically worn very often by men. Here a polka
dot bow tie is worn by Connie Billop, who plays a bank employee in "Hot Saturday" from 1932 and here,
Giorgio Albertazzi wears a polka dot necktie as part of a Black Tie optional ensemble in "L'année dernière
à Marienbad" in 1961. During the latter half of the 20th century as menswear on the whole became more
casual, polka dots were employed under bolder circumstances. As an example, here's a polka
dot shirt worn by counterculture icon Bob Dylan. Today, polka dots are often seen on more informal
menswear articles like sports shirts or casual trousers. You'll also see them on more private
garments like pajamas, and they'll pop up in other settings for outfits that are intended to be more
dramatic or eye-catching. Devotees of classic style have never forsaken polka dots, and they're just as
common today as they were during the Golden Age of Menswear in some circles. And, of course,
Polka-Dot Man hasn't gone away entirely either - as he was prominently featured in the 2021 version of
"The Suicide Squad." Next up then, let's get to some considerations when choosing how and when to wear
polka dots in your outfits. Regarding the situation, formality, and appropriateness of the pattern, you
can actually have the dots themselves guide you. Perhaps we might call that a dotted line to follow?
[scene from "True Lies"] Harry Tasker: "You're fired."
In general, the smaller the dot pattern is, the more formal it's going to be.
Smaller dots can be quite subtle; almost resolving to a solid when viewed from a distance. At the
other end of the spectrum, you'll find macro or large dots, which are much more casual and fun
and, in the middle, you'll have average-sized dots, which we admit is something of a relative term.
But, as a general rule, if the dots are small enough to blend together as part of a repeating visual
pattern, you can consider them average-sized or smaller. Meanwhile, if the dots are large
enough that they themselves become the center of attention, then you're definitely dealing with
large dots. Polka dot patterns can also feature a variety of sizes, which tends to be more casual.
Keep dot size in mind when you're assembling your outfits then because, at least when it comes to
formality, polka dot size does matter. Our next consideration is one that's closely related to
size, dot density, which refers to how closely the dots are spaced or how much space exists between
them. Usually, the higher the density, the smaller the dots are going to be. Although, sometimes, extra
space can be left in between smaller dots as an aesthetic choice. Usually then, menswear articles
with greater dot density are going to be more formal because the dots, in turn, are smaller. Next,
let's talk about dot patterns. In classic menswear, polka dots are usually arranged in a regular
pattern like straight, diagonal, half-dropped, or offset. However, scattered polka dot patterns also
do appear from time to time. As a general rule, the more regular and symmetrical a pattern is, the more
formal it's going to be. Finally here, let's talk about dot color. White dots are by far the most
commonly seen in menswear, and they can be paired with basically any other color. This
is likely because it will allow for effortless pairing between your polka dotted accessories and
a white dress shirt, which is, of course, most commonly worn by many men. In general, colors
with some contrast are going to work best for polka dot patterns, and you are not going to see
things like white and gray, for example, very often because the dots won't stand out very well. And for
colored polka dots, contrasting and complementary colors are often going to be employed to provide
additional visual interest. You can, of course, also find multi-colored dot patterns on occasion, but
this is going to be especially casual. And when it comes to the formalities of the colors themselves,
polka dots follow the same conventions of formal versus casual color that are also inherent to
the rest of menswear. So, when calculating the formality of polka dots, you can see
that taking size, density, pattern, and color into consideration are all necessary elements. To cement
this, let's take a look at a couple of examples. First, this bow tie has small, high-density dots
in a regular pattern, but the fact that it is so strongly multi-colored makes it extremely casual.
It's also a clip-on, but let's not get off topic here. Conversely, this necktie has low-density,
average-sized dots, but the muted body color and the fact that the dots are white, make it much more
formal compared to the other example. So, remember to consider all four of the guidelines we've laid
out here, but use your best judgment when you're putting your outfits together. Speaking of which
then, let's get into some more general tips about wearing polka dots. The beauty of polka dots is
how they lend themselves easily to various two and three color combinations. While white spots help to
bring the white of a shirt forward, dots in other colors can help to bridge the various elements
of your outfit in creative ways. For example, you could leverage the dots on a tie or pocket square
to bring in a harder to wear color like yellow. When wearing polka dots - as with any other pattern -
be mindful of the theory of scale. This is to say, if you've got multiple patterned accessories
or, especially, multiple accessories featuring polka dots, make sure that the dots aren't all
at the same scale. Play around with variations like having the dots on your bow tie be average-sized,
but the dots on your pocket square be smaller in comparison. Of course, wearing multiple types
of polka dots at once is always going to look bold and make a style statement, so if you're
just starting out with the pattern, it's probably a good idea to stick to one polka dotted element.
When it comes to wearing polka dots casually, you're going to have the greatest amount of
relative freedom as polka dots always lend an element of fun to any outfit. In the warmer months,
for instance, you could consider something like a polka dot shirt in blue and white that will create
a casual, nautically-inspired look that will go well with light trousers and boat shoes. Many
shirts with polka dots are also going to exude a certain retro charm. For instance, you might have a
love affair with the polka dot shirt and vest combo of the band Love Affair's frontman Steve
Ellis. And while full polka dot trousers are going to be outside the realm of classic menswear, polka
dot shorts are a fun, casual option, especially for warm weather occasions like resort wear.
This is probably why the pattern is so popular for swimsuits. These dotted shorts could be paired with
a polo or short-sleeved linen shirt - preferably in a solid color to make the outfit not too flashy
overall. Meanwhile, a casual ascot or scarf worn as a neckerchief will allow you to incorporate polka
dots into your outfits in unexpected ways. This was another popular, warm-weather look for men in
the first half of the 20th century as it allowed them to wear their shirt collars open to catch the
breeze, but still be wearing some kind of neckwear. This same logic also makes casual, polka-dotted
ascots or neckerchiefs ideal for relaxing at home or adding a bit more visual interest to a sedate
outfit. Polka dot socks are also an amusing way to inject some playfulness into things, but keep
in mind that you don't want people's attention on your ankles all the time. Uh, my eyes are up here.
So, the safest choices are going to be more formal overall, with darker colors and smaller, denser
dot patterns. And as we alluded to earlier, you can achieve a similar effect without
actually employing dots by wearing our two-tone, solid Fort Belvedere socks. For especially casual
looks though, feel free to have some fun. Returning now to the other end of the formality scale, if you
can believe it, polka dots are actually perfectly acceptable in some formal dress codes like morning
wear. You're probably not going to want to break out polka dots for Black Tie or White Tie however,
but as we mentioned earlier, you can wear them for Black Tie optional or any lower dress code on the
formality scale like cocktail attire or business attire. I don't see Delphine Seyrig complaining - or
at least I don't think she's complaining. Honestly, I've had a bit of trouble following this film.
In general, the key to getting a formal polka dot look right is scale. Returning to our earlier
considerations, you're going to want to stick to smaller dots and more formal colors as well.
In formal settings, neckwear is going to be one of the most common places to find polka dots
as dotted neckties or bow ties can be seen as more formal or more casual, depending on
the rest of the ensemble. Printed silk is always going to be a safe choice for formal occasions.
But, for variety ,you could consider something like woven soft wool challis or silk jacquard
or shantung, grenadine or knit ties where the dots are hand-embroidered or even hand-painted on
since perfectly round dots can't be woven. As they're typically a small repeating geometric
pattern, polka dots are most easily worn against solid shirts. But, if you want to wear two patterns,
consider wearing a shirt with a subtle stripe or going for a larger pattern in your jacket like
a window pane. Polka-dotted formal ascots should follow similar rules and, overall, should conform
to the more sedate conventions of morning dress. Scarves worn formally with an overcoat are an
excellent way to add some color to an outfit, especially on those drab winter days. To help
keep your overall look sufficiently formal, opt for muted but lustrous colors like rich red, deep blue,
subdued purple, earthy green, or warm brown. Outside of neckwear then, polka-dotted pocket squares are
the most common menswear accessory to bear the pattern. As pocket squares are often a means of
introducing a third or even fourth color into an outfit, bi-colored polka dots are perfect for these
circumstances. Because of their strong repeating pattern, polka dotted pocket squares are going
to work best with a solid tie or one that has a different pattern. Though, as mentioned before, you
can be bold enough to pair polka dotted ties and squares together if you're keeping scale in mind.
And when it comes to color, strong contrast is going to appear more casual, whereas more
proximate colors are going to look more formal. As we've hopefully illustrated today then, polka
dots aren't just for clowns and they can appear dignified if you know what you're doing. So, we hope
that today's video hasn't left you seeing spots but, instead, seeing polka dots in a new light. Be
sure to let us know in the comments below how you like to wear polka dots in your outfits. And now,
with all that clothing stuff out of the way, we can start talking about Polka-Dot Man in more depth.
Well, okay, we might not actually have time to get into this fully. So, instead, I think I'll just tell
you what I'm wearing today. In today's video, I am, of course, wearing polka dots in multiple elements
of my outfit as well as circles of other kinds. We'll start here with my white, linen pocket square
from Fort Belvedere, featuring hand-embroidered polka dots in blue. Meanwhile, my silk tie in a
jacquard weave is in light blue with white polka dots and, while we don't offer this specific design
currently in the Fort Belvedere shop, we do have one in the same pattern style in beige. Also from
Fort Belvedere are my platinum-plated, sterling silver, eagle claw cufflinks featuring blue lapis
lazuli as the stone in a spherical shape that also brings dots to mind. My two-toned, solid socks
in light blue and midnight blue also evoke dots, even though they aren't technically polka dots.
And my tan derby shoes feature broguing on them, which is, of course, also a circular design.
Other elements of my outfit today obviously include my vintage, camel hair jacket,
my plain, light blue shirt, and plain brown trousers with a warm, red undertone as well as my light blue,
veronica persica boutonniere from Fort Belvedere. And with the exception of this specific tie,
you can, of course, find all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I'm wearing as well as a wide array
of other classic men's accessories by visiting the Fort Belvedere shop here.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪