Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today we're going to be looking at the clutch system on our 2008 Honda CBR600 RR.
If you're cruising along and you really get on the throttle real hard and the motorcycle
doesn't want to move, maybe your clutch is slipping.
But if you're changing gears and it really doesn't activate very well, maybe the basket's
worn out.
So, we're going to go in here and take a look at this one and see what kind of shape it's
in.
It starts by just draining the oil and getting this lower fairing out of the way, so let
me go grab a couple of tools and we'll get started on it.
Alright guys, we've got that lower valence pulled, we went ahead and drained the oil,
and at this point I'm going to vary a little bit from what the Honda manual wants us to
do.
they actually want us to go ahead and prop the tank up and get to that connection for
the crankside position sensor and get it unplugged.
I would assume they're doing that because they don't want you to have it hanging my
the wire, so when I pull it off I'm just going to hang it to the side and maybe attach it
by a zip tie or something just to keep it from putting stress on that wire.
So, I'm going to change it up just a little bit compared to what the manual is going to
do.
So, let's go ahead and get these eight millimeter bolts off and then get the side cover off.
Alright guys, we've got our cover off and I've just got it supported by a little wire
going up to what looks like the throttle cable up to, just to where it isn't hanging by the
crankshaft position sensor.
Alright, with the cover off, we've got the clutch pack exposed and then you saw me take
off the idler gear.
Make sure you keep up with that thrust washer as well as that little wave washer when you
put it back together.
What's going to happen next?
Well, we're going to remove these five bolts there.
We want to do it in a criss-cross pattern, and then that'll pull the clutch apart and
we can start pulling the plates.
Alright, so let's get those bolts taken out and we'll take a look at the plates.
Alright, so we've got our clutch pulled apart.
What is this whole stack of plates made up of?
Well let me show you.
There's actually three different composite discs and alternating it in between each one
are metal discs.
so when you're ordering a new clutch, you need to get all of these.
Otherwise, it's not going to work right.
Now just looking at our plates, I can go ahead and tell you they actually look to be in pretty
good shape.
the wear limit on these is I believe 2.6 millimeters.
We're still at over three, so honestly there was not a problem with this clutch.
It wasn't slipping, it was engaging pretty smooth through as well.
So this really wasn't called for on this particular machine.
and I'm seeing they're uniform going down through.
What you're going to see on a clutch that is, you know, worn out other than you know
the machine not moving once you pull it apart, you're going to see that these fiber discs
are more or less-- they're worn all the way down.
Basically these little pads right there are gone.
Another tale-tell sign is the metal discs after they've been slipping, they actually
turn blue from the heat.
That's another indicator.
But, since I've got it apart and I'm trying to show you how to install a new clutch, we're
going to go ahead and do that.
The other thing we want to do is we want to look at out basket and our inner hub.
When you come in here what you're looking for is the plates are just running back and
forth as you activate and deactivate the clutch.
and eventually, it starts wearing on these edges right here and on the inside.
I can see where the marks are, but they're really not that pronounced so I think this
basket can keep going as well.
I mean when you run your finger down through there if it feels really lumpy, you probably
need to go ahead and replace it.
But this one?
I don't think it's called for.
Alright so let's go ahead and get these clutch plates submerged in some oil for about 15
or 20 minutes-- let it go ahead and get in the fibers.
Otherwise, you put it together dry and it'll burn apart almost immediately.
Alright guys, I think there have been soaking long enough.
It's time to go ahead and rebuild that clutch pack.
did you remember there's three different types of discs?
Well, just in case let me show you the differences.
Alright, your first one that's going to go in.
see how it's more narrow from here to here?
Well it's the one that has to go in first because it's got to hang over those jutter
springs back in the back.
Alright, with that in place, we can go ahead and start putting the other discs in.
The disc that you need to separate is this one, and how you ID it is these little wear
sections right here are a little bit wider so you need to lay it out to the side.
Now, we can start alternating between our metal discs and the friction discs.
Alright, and then our last one.
Now remember it goes back by one tooth so you want it right there.
Make sure you have your pull pin in position.
And that's how she goes together.
Alright, let's take a look at our springs and see if we can reuse them or not.
The service limit is 45.8, and we're at 45.5, 45.5.
Let's see what a new one looks like.
Up around 47, so a couple of millimeters difference.
So there are right on the edge, so I'm going to go ahead and replace them.
Tighten them in just a little bit at a time going in that criss-cross pattern.
Alright, they're all snug down, so let's go ahead and get them torqued.
They're in the 9 foot pounds.
Next we need to go ahead and do the sealant. and what Honda wants you to do is a continuous
bead all the way around the outer cover and then on the crankcase they only want it in
between here and about right there and then the same thing here to there.
Why do they want it like that?
Honestly, I'm not entirely sure, but if they say to do it in the book there must be a good
reason for it so we're going to do it here as well.
Alright, the sealant that they call out for this is actually a gasket maker because there
is no gasket in this particular application.
The stuff they call out in the manual is called T-B-1207B.
With that bead laid down, let's go ahead and get our idler gear back in position, along
with that wave washer and then that outer thrust washer.
Alright, all that's as it should be, we've got our dowels in place, our sealant, our
gasket maker where it needs to be.
Next, we need to go ahead and put the cover on but what we need to do here is turn this
I believe it's clockwise and bring it back and then bring it in turning it clockwise
because we have to grab this pull at the very end of the clutch housing.
So, get that untied, get that back in place, pull back on the lever just a little bit.
Just like that.
See she just reached around and now it's got ahold of that pin.
Yep.
Did one mistake though: that spring is not in the right position.
We want to carry it around and get it in the right position.
There.
That's where we want it to be.
Next, we just need to get all these little 8mm bolts put back in the case.
Just go all the way around tightening them a little bit at a time so it pulls in the
case evenly.
Alright guys, we've got all those bolts snugged down and the next thing we need to address
is the clutch cable.
Real important step right here.
Because we've replaced the plates, our adjustment area has increased now.
So what we need to do is go over on the other side of the machine and go ahead and run that
tensioner all the way in that way it's at its home or zero point.
Then we'll get back over here and do the course adjustment.
Alright, so let's reach up in here and break that stop off.
Go ahead and roll it all the way back and then bring her in.
You don't have to bring it all the way-- bring it all the way in and then bring it our about
a turn or two.
Alright, now let's get back on the other side and do the coarse adjustment.
alright, with that adjuster all the way in, let's go ahead and get this cable reattached.
Now, we want to bring it all the way up so it starts to engage against the lever up there.
Honestly this cable is about worn out, but I think there's enough adjustment in it.
Alright, get that little cap over the end.
Alright, at this point that's where you're going to want to reference our clutch adjustment
video and I'll show you how to get it dialed in.
Alright guys, well that pretty much wraps this one up.
all that's left at this point is just to refill it with oil and then put the lower cowling
back on.
And if you reference our oil change video I'll show you how to get that done.
Well, listen if you need any of the parts that we used here, come see us at partzilla.com.
If there's something I did that you couldn't see or if you have a question about it, if
you would just leave it in the comments section below and I'll do my best to answer it.
And until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.