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The prime objective of, now, manufacturing the rough
is getting the maximum yield out of the rough
and removing the maximum inclusions from the rough
and getting the maximum yield out of the rough.
If you make a cut stone from this,
the valuation will be lesser.
The realization will be more in the cabochon,
and you'll be able to sell it faster as a cabochon.
Ultimately you have to see that this stone is going to go
in a jewelry, whoever makes it.
So a thing which is going to look good in a jewelry--
if it has more white inclusions, nobody's
going to set it in a pendant or a ring.
Whereas if it has a good, clean material,
then you will always get a better price out of that.
As a thumb rule we apply, an inclusion which is in the stone
more than 20%, we slice it.
If it is less than 20%, we grind it.
After the preforms have been made,
we have a sufficient quantity of preforms,
maybe 2,000, 3,000 karats, then we put them on assortment.
As you can see, they're all different grades in here.
This is a lighter bluish material.
This is a more better, greener material.
This is with inclusions.
So now this material is ready.
This is all cut stones.
The desired shape is there.
And the table has also been formed.
So you have to grade it and then go to the next process, which
is getting them faceted.
This is the polishing/faceting area which we have.
First, if it is a calibrated material,
we do it, the grinding of the edges,
according to the calibrated size.
Like if it is a 7x5, on the machine, which
we are going to go further on, we grind it till 7.1 and 5.1
and leave it.
This is a calibration stick.
It should be even from all the sides.
If it is out from one side and in from the other,
than it is going to grind more material because it
has to be even on the machine.
So the more accurate the dopping is, less of it
you will lose while calibrating the material.
We use very minute Araldite to stick it to the stick.
It is a glue.
It is basically Araldite which we use.
And the grip is strong, because it
is going to go on that calibration machine.
This is the calibrating machine which we have.
And according to the size, there is a master collet here,
which is this.
Then put the dop, and then you grind it on the wheel.
Now, if it is a 6x4, we have a master collet of 6x4.
So this machine, when you take this here and push it inside,
you will get a 6x4.
Then you do the polishing of the table.
You see a little shine in this stone.
And you don't see a shine on the stone which is on my left side,
whereas on the right side, you see a shine.
Because table is the most important part in the stone,
it should be scratch-free.
After the table has been made, then
the cutting of the crown of the stone.
This is flames, as you can see, and they
are using this to heat the stone very minutely
and get the stone on the polishing stick.
After that, we remove it from the stick,
stick it from the other side, and then we
cut the pavilion of the stone.
So this is the three different, four different processes
which happen.
If you run a factory, you always need experience, as well as
the aggression of the youth.
You cannot only work on experience,
and you cannot only work on youth.
It is probably a mixture.
The more intriguing part, like where we lose a lot of weight.
For example, as you could have understand,
dopping is a very critical part, so you need an experienced man
in that.
Calibrating, you need an experienced man.
Polishing is relatively less experience,
so probably we have the new people
who want to come into the line, understand, so they are
doing that in a [INAUDIBLE].
The process will be irrespective of the price
range of the rough.
The process will be the exactly same.
Even if you're manufacturing a $5-per-gram rough or you are
manufacturing a $100-per-gram rough,
the process will be the same.
Accuracy-- and your surveillance will
depend on the more the expensive, the more you'll
be careful about the weight loss and everything.
We don't try to mix two, three different origins together.
If it is Zambian, then you continue for the whole month
with the Zambian material.
If we want to switch it over to Brazilian material,
then we continue for a continuous process of material.
And preferably what do we is first,
we polish ovals, then pears.
We stick to a particular shape.
Size is not a problem.
We make different sizes.
But shapes, we prefer to do one shape at a time
so it's, again, more accurate.
Here, the polishing material being used
is all chromium oxide and zinc oxide.
Normally we have green laps now, which
we import from Israel, which is a condensed mixture of chromium
oxide, diamond powder-- everything which
they make in Israel.
So that has a better faceting and polishing result.
In a high-grade material, normally we use the green laps.
Emerald being a brittle stone, we
have put these into plastic bags which has a little oil in this,
so they don't dry out and the cracks doesn't come out.
Now if you see, you will be having
all the different shades, from light to dark.
You can see the significant difference in color.
There is no inclusion here.
There are cracks in the stones, but no black spots
or white spots in the stone.
There will be cracks.
But this all has, as you can see,
good brilliance in the stone, which has here the good lustre.
From here, the lightest shade to the darkest shade.
Mixed shapes and mixed sizes are there,
but the quality is not mixed.
It is even quality.
Now here, if you look, you'll see a different grade.
Very prominently seen, the difference in lustre is there.
The color is almost the same, but the clarity here
is more and here is less.
So value of this lot is more than this lot.
All this calibrated material is going to go into jewelry,
so you need a specification.
And all this material will be used for export.
So basically the cutting and everything
has to be up to the mark.
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