(intro music)
- So we are back again here at the GCN tech clinic
to help answer your technical problems,
questions, and queries.
Basically so you can get rolling again
and set some of those personal bests out on the road.
So let's start this shall we.
First up is a question from Mike Threadgould,
who says I mentioned clogged up valves
on tubeless tires this week.
They had it happened then on the weekend
and couldn't get air into the valve
after topping off the sealant.
They removed the valve core again and cleaned it
then poked around in the valve to try and open it up.
It worked eventually.
Is this is the only way or
is there any easier or better option?
So clogged up valves are never a good thing, are they?
And I've been told by Doddy over on GNBM Tech
because he is a firm user of tubeless tires
that basically the best system for this
is a brand called Milk It who have some
really super valves that don't get clogged up.
So have a little look around and check out what they are.
I have seen them in operation
and they do look very good indeed.
Now as for my personal use of them,
I've never used them because
I don't use tubeless on my own bikes.
But Milk It have a look for that.
Now Kid Karbon, that's quite a cool name.
They want to know are SRAM eTap Hydro shifters
compatible with SRAM Hydro-R Rim brakes?
Or can you make them compatible?
Then they say, bet you can't answer that for certain.
Well, Kid Karbon I can answer that for certain.
And no they don't work.
How do I know that though?
I had to reach out to my friends at SRAM to help answer it.
But yep that is the answer,
they don't work with one another.
So yeah, if you were planning on doing that
I'm afraid it won't work.
Next question this week is from Hasnaih Agha
who says I have an issue.
The issue is that when they close the quick release skewer
the alignment of the wheel gets disturbed, please help.
Alright, so firstly with this one,
when putting wheels into a bike,
always make sure the bike is actually on the ground
not upside down or lifted up in the air, anything like that.
But there on the ground.
The reason being then the bike
does find its natural way into,
or rather the actual find its natural way
into drop out and it can do so well.
So give that a go.
See if that solves your problem.
If it's not, then have a look at the axles
and make sure that no spacers are missing from one side,
which could make it out of line basically.
Failing that, make sure your drop outs
are actually in line too.
Because they can get bent, particularly on steel frames.
On carbon frames it's not so common because
basically carbon doesn't bend like that.
It snaps.
And aluminum it tends to have a point
where it gets to and then it snaps too.
So yeah have a look at those three different methods.
Now Graham Smith.
Graham, hi Jon great vids.
One question, I would like to ask.
I have an 11 speed BMC bike with Shimano
and I'm going to change my chain.
Do I use the pin which came with the chain or a quick link?
Please give me your advice on this one.
Right Graham, good question.
I would advise using the pin that comes with the chain.
Now some people they do in fact use quick links
on chains that aren't designed for quick links.
However I wouldn't really advise it
because it's not designed for that purpose in mind, is it?
Let's face it.
And when a chain snaps you tend to know about it.
So whatever you can do to actually try and prolong the life
of a chain as well as stopping it from snapping.
I would personally recommend to do it.
So yeah use that pin.
Now, we've got a corrosion question from David Seltzer,
who says is there a difference in corrosion resistance
depending on the level of groupset?
So would Ultegra parts be less prone
to rust or corrosion than Tiagra?
They live in a coastal region and commute
by bike and ferry boats, and salty spray
is an issue for my commuter bike.
Now I can relate to this one.
I used to live on a little island in the Atlantic Ocean
about 50 meters from the sea.
And I used to ride actually with people
using all different levels of groupsets.
And I can categorically say
I've never noticed one groupset being less susceptible
to corrosion than another one.
So basically I can't see it being an issue out there.
I'm sure someone probably has some scientific results
or tests about the different metals used in those groupsets.
But what's worth really remembering
is to take care of your equipment.
So when you return from a ride,
make sure that it's wiped down and it's cleaned
and that you are using something
to try and help prevent that corrosion.
Because I am aware of how quickly it can set in.
So just remember to do that maintenance.
Now Fat Lad at the Back has got a creaking problem.
So the bike has developed a very annoying clicking,
which sounds like it's coming from the bottom bracket area.
It's been fully serviced recently
and all the gears are indexed correctly.
Chain ring bolts are tight and the pedals have been checked.
Bottom bracket has been cleaned and regreased
and there's no play in it.
But I still can't find the source
as it only happens when on the bike.
Any other ideas what could be causing it?
Right, absolute nightmare when you get a click on a bike
because it drives you wild.
It drives everyone else you ride with wild.
And basically you just don't want to go on your bike.
Or at least I don't.
So those chaining bolts make sure that they are greased
as well as possibly using some antisneeze in there too.
Pedal threads, do exactly the same.
And then your bottom bracket or your chain set spindle,
also maybe add just a dab of grease on there too.
That hopefully will eradicate those clicks.
Failing that make sure that your wheels
that they're in the drop outs well
and that they're tightened up well enough.
Maybe you can put a dab of grease
on the inside of the drop outs there too.
And I'm hoping that now your click
will creak free basically.
Cause it's a horrible problem to have.
Now Peter Hitchen, they've got a problem
taking out a back wheel.
So having a real issue with the rear wheel
when removing and replacing it using the quick release.
Removing it is quite difficult.
It seems to be held in by the derailleur.
And when putting it back in you have to really force it in.
The derailleur seems to be working against them
as opposed to with them.
Driving them mad, any help would be appreciated.
Alright, first up Peter does this happen
in all gearing combinations?
If you were using one of the lower gears,
so that's one of the sprockets
in the back with the most teeth.
I can imagine this happening.
The reason being the derailleur
is being pulled forward by the chain.
Just due to the actual physics of it.
And that too can sometimes prevent you
from being able to just tap that wheel out that easy.
Personally, I tend to put it in the highest gear
so that's with the smallest number of teeth
that sprocket there at the back.
Cause that tends to basically allow you
to remove that wheel a little bit easier.
Now the modern derailleurs they tend
to have a stronger spring in them too,
which doesn't help with fast wheel changes.
So if you've got one of those,
possibly you need to just rotate
that derailleur back slightly on its pivot bolt
and then the wheel should easily be able to go in and out.
Personally, I always do it so that the chain like I say
is on the smallest sprocket on the rear.
So that's when the smallest teeth
rather than the smallest gear.
And that way it's easier to actually
line up the wheel when inserting it back in.
Now Kristian Balazs Farkas has a question
about buying a new bike.
They're thinking of getting their first road bike
and decided they would like to have Shimano's 105 group set.
As they were surfing online they saw
that Shimano just introduced the new 105
and in one of the articles they mentioned
it would be available from this summer.
Even they mentioned it's going to be cheaper
than the current group set despite the fact
it's using more advanced technology.
Would it be wise to wait to get a bike
with that new group set?
What would I say?
When would the first road bikes be available
with this new group set?
Right, great news you want to get a new bike.
That's absolutely fantastic.
Everyone loves a new bike.
I reckon those bikes will be hitting the shops
late summer this year so
yeah, there we go with that one.
But would I wait for it?
I think I would, I think I would.
The reason being that new group set looks fantastic
and the trickle down technologies
is a real improvement of the old one in my personal view.
So personally yeah I'd just be patient.
Wait for it and you certainly, I don't think anyway,
will be disappointed with that group set.
Andy Turner, got a question about tubeless and is it messy?
So Andy asks.
They've seen lots of videos on tubeless set up
but no one removing an old one.
I'm thinking of going tubeless but
when you remove an old tire is it a gooey mess?
So the good old tubeless set up.
Relatively new to us on the roadside.
Now tubeless seams tends to last
in most cases around about six months.
And then it dries out so
you do basically have to put more in.
Or remove the old stuff and put some more in.
Personally I would always take out that dried up
just to save a little bit of weight.
As for what is it like when you need to remove it.
Well it does dry up like I say and become almost like a gel
certainly from the tubeless seams
I've used in my mountain bikes.
So yeah you can just peel it away
from the inside of the tire.
It's not very messy at all.
Final question this week is from Tomi Searanen.
Who says they hate coffee, how can they start liking it?
So coffee is pretty much intrinsically linked
with cyclists out there isn't it, let's face it.
Now Tomi a while back, Simon Richardson
did actually say if you don't like something,
try it eight times.
I think he said that with olives.
So there you are, go out and have eight coffees.
See if you like it.
Don't do eight espressos though.
Certainly not in a row because well
that could well be some medical implications involved there.
So just be safe.
Try out those eight coffees, Tomi.
Now I hope you've enjoyed this week's GCN tech clinic.
And as ever, leave us your questions then there
in the comment section below.
And I'll try my very best to get round to answering them.
Remember as well to like
and share this video with your friends.
Especially if they've got one of those problems
that we've just tackled.
Hopefully now they can get it sorted.
And don't forget as well to check out the GCN shop.
At shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com,
where we've got a vast array of products
for you both on and off the bikes.
If someone's birthday's coming up,
why not have a look on there?
See if you can find them something.
Something special for that loved one in your life.
Now for another great video,
how bout clicking down here for the latest GCN tech show.