York's mighty wall is a reminder
that the city was more than a religious power.
It was a military and political center,
vital for the control of North England
from Roman times through the Middle Ages.
These ramparts, some of which sit
on the remains of the Roman wall,
are mostly medieval -- 14th and 15th century.
Each of the town gates was heavily fortified --
and I imagine pretty scary if you were trying to break in.
Gaze up at the tower, imagining 10 archers
behind the cross-shaped arrow slits.
Keep an eye on those 12th-century guards,
with their stones raised and primed
to protect their town.
Today those walls seem
only to protect the half-timbered charm.
Ye olde downtown York -- much of it
as car-free today as it was 500 years ago --
is filled with characteristic old buildings.
It feels made for window-shopping,
people-watching, and strolling.
York's rich history goes back much further.
The ruins of St. Mary's Abbey --
once the wealthiest abbey in North England --
are located in a lush and inviting park.
In his fight with the Roman Catholic Church,
Henry VIII saw the wealthy monasteries and convents
as both a threat to his rule and some easy money.
In what's called The Dissolution,
he dissolved the religious orders.
He took their money and destroyed their great buildings.
The Yorkshire Museum --
actually built into the ruins of the abbey --
tells the story of life here for the monks,
how all that ended, and much more.
The ancient Roman collection includes slice-of-life exhibits
from cult figurines
to the skull of a man
killed by a sword blow to the head --
making it graphically clear
that the struggle between Romans and barbarians
was a violent one.
This fine 8th-century Anglo-Saxon helmet
shows a bit of barbarian refinement.
And those Vikings -- they wore some pretty decent shoes
and actually combed their hair.
The Middleham Jewel,
an exquisitely etched 15th-century pendant,
is considered the finest piece of Gothic jewelry in Britain.
To the noble lady who wore this on a necklace,
it both helped her worship and protected her from illness.
The back of it, which rested near her heart,
shows the Nativity.
The front shows the Holy Trinity crowned by a sapphire,
which people believed gave your prayers
top priority with God.
For a lively change of pace,
look for the local Morris dancers,
who boldly keep centuries
of dancing tradition alive.
Mixing both pagan and Christian traditions,
they're always ready to celebrate --
cheerleading the town through
the return of spring, the harvest,
your mother's birthday... Whatever.
[ English folk music playing ]
For something a little weightier,
visit York's National Railway Museum.
Showing two centuries of British railroad history,
it claims to be the biggest and best
railroad museum anywhere.
Fanning out from a grand roundhouse
is a stunning array
of beautifully preserved historic trains.
A steam engine is sliced open,
showing cylinders,
driving wheels, and smoke box, all in action.
You'll trace the evolution of steam-powered transportation
from very early trains
like this 1830 stage coach on rails,
with its crude steam engine,
to the aerodynamic Mallard, famous as the first train
to travel at two miles per minute,
a marvel back in 1938.