[Hamza] There has been a growing trend among people
today looking for cost effective,
non-invasive methods to improve
the appearance of their skin.
Many people are turning away from
prescription medications and
medical procedures and
instead considering
over-the-counter treatments
such as cosmetic products that contain
active in Gainsight claim to treat a range of
undesirable skin conditions like photo aging,
hyperpigmentation, wrinkles,
scars, blemishes and skin and elasticity.
We believe that failure to discern
fact from fiction related to claims
made by popular skincare YouTubers
potential to cause a lot of harm.
Many popular YouTubers
acquire donated cosmetics,
are there to promote a product.
And unfortunately,
this can often lead to conflicts
of interests and
the spread of misinformation.
To help combat this, the goal of
this video is to gather and present
a somewhat comprehensive summary of
recent published scientific data on retinal,
one of the most popular skin
can creeds of our day.
So the claims made by
popular skincare YouTube is
and other brand promoters
can be checked and balanced.
And people can be more informed
about what they're putting on their skin.
As long as humanity has existed.
There have been claims and magical potions,
elixirs of maternal mortality.
While such a search has largely been
sidelined by science and a lot
of people have RNA
are making claims of anti-aging.
And one that's been sweeping headlines
recently is retinol.
Retinol, no doubt read NOT null retinal.
Know right now,
what are the claims being
made about the product?
And crave skin texture?
If passive hyperpigmentation improves,
the retina x will make
your skin look smoother,
decrease the parents support
reduced hyperpigmentation.
Wouldn't know that you're getting more plump.
It helps them.
My fresher scan
so you're not going to get asked.
So as we can see, the claims about retinal in
popular media are quite
extensive for one single ingredient,
there a way that we can
evaluate these claims?
Well, we can start by looking for
three important things that
are often considered when
evaluating so-called active
or bioactive compounds
that can help us look past some of
the marketing and become
more informed consumers.
To number one, can
the active ingredient, in this case, retinal,
even penetrate the skin and
be delivered insufficient concentrations.
Question number 2, are there.
He's peer reviewed scientific studies that
suggest that retinal even
works. Question number 3.
If studies show that it does work,
what are the mechanisms behind its activity?
In other words, how does it work?
Well, we'll consider all three of
these really important questions in due time.
The first, we need to get some background
information out of the way.
When people say retinol,
what they're really referring to our class
of drugs called retinoids,
which are vitamin a derivatives.
In other words, molecules,
they all share unique chemical backbone,
namely the Beta unknown ring in red and an
unsaturated isoprenoids side-chain in blue,
but a different one or two functional groups.
These little guys circled in yellow.
Retinol is a type of red line.
It has an unknown ring followed
by an isoprenoids high chain.
But even though it gets all the attention,
it's hardly the most important.
Such a titled definitely goes to
retinoic acid, AKA trend note.
This is because it's the only retinoid and
its pure form that your skin can
actually utilize and is bioavailable.
The other retinoids that are most commonly
found in over-the-counter products.
Namely retina know palmitate,
retinal and retina aldehyde.
Or right now, I'll have to undergo
conversion process to turn into
retinoic acid before your
skin can make use of it.
The process goes and just that order,
which also correlates to
the retinoids potency and efficacy.
The more steps in the conversion process,
the weaker the retinoid generally is.
So now we have
the background knowledge to tackle are
three important questions on whether or
not the claim surrounding retinal are true.
And we can start by looking at Q1.
Can retinal penetrate the skin?
The short answer is yes.
Account. The long answer
has to do with your scan
and the structure of retinoids.
Your skin is made up of several layers,
including the stratum corneum
or the topmost layer,
otherwise known as
the lipid barrier of the skin.
The great thing about
this barrier is that it provides
a perfect level permeability for
retinoids as they're lipophilic molecules,
allowing them to penetrate this upper layer.
But just being lipophilic
doesn't necessarily mean that
the molecule can accurately enter
human skin and impact biological processes.
So we need some kind of
biological markers that we
can measure that
correlates with retinoid activity.
And it just so happens that we do.
There's skin enzyme called cytochrome P450
dependent RA for hydroceles or ACP 450 Ra,
which is a key factor
in measuring its absorption.
We'll call this enzyme the indicator enzyme.
From now on.
Studies have shown that activation of
his indicator enzyme does become
significantly induced by retina.
So in summary, retinal and other retinoids,
due to their lipophilic nature,
can bypass the lipid layer,
allowing them to enter the skin.
And studies have shown
our lovely indicator enzyme
is also more pronounced when
retinoids had been applied to the skin.
Therefore, it is safe to say
that retinal can in fact
penetrate the skin and
induce biological activity.
Which brings us to our second question.
Are there He's
peer reviewed scientific studies
that suggest that retinal even works.
Now that we know a bit more about retinal,
its chemistry and different types
of retinal derivatives.
Are there actually any
published scientific trials that
corroborate clans made about
the truck and popular culture?
Well, according to two systematic reviews,
there was
a substantial amount of evidence supporting
the efficacy of retinoic acid or
trend known in the treatment of signs of
aging every presentation
and boosting collagen production.
The evidence supporting retinoid
base cosmic cuticles are
over-the-counter products are
remains relatively sparse.
However, according to the systematic review,
since retinoids, retinol,
retina aldehyde, and retina now
all undergo conversion into retinoic acid.
The vast amount of studies done on
the efficacy of retinoic acid or Trent known,
suggests that these derivatives commonly
found in OTC cognitive goals are
effective from our own research
and from the systematic reviews.
We've chosen to highlight
three studies dating from
1998 to more recent times that are
representative current research
and retinoid derivatives
and concentrations can commonly
found in OTC cosmos who
holds breast chosen study
dating back to 1998,
is a clinical trial comparing
the differences between two creams.
One containing 0.05% retina aldehyde
with other having 0.05% retinue.
In this experiment,
a 125 patients were studied over
18 weeks in
a randomized double-blind fashion.
This means that patients
were randomly categorize receive
the treatment with either
retinal or retina aldehyde.
But neither the experimenter
nor the patients knew
which group they were in. The results.
Consistent with claims made
by popular skincare YouTubers,
both retinoids were found to be
effective against general signs of aging.
With a 0.05% retina aldehyde
cream found to significantly
improve fine lines and deep wrinkles.
The second study conducted in
2006 also randomize and no wind.
Here at 36 elderly patients
received 0.4% retinal
administered to either the right or left
arm up to three times a week for 24 weeks.
The results, again, consistent
with claims made by
popular skincare usurpers,
the arm treated with
retinol ocean improved find wrinkles
significantly when compared
to the arm left untreated.
Our third and final study was
conducted in 2009 for not for
nine months using
double-blind placebo-controlled study
involving 48 volunteers.
In this case,
the experimental group had a low
0.1% dose of
retinal in their cosmetic product.
Whereas the placebo group had
no active ingredient whatsoever.
When comparing the results,
those that received
the active retinal formulation
in their product had
a significant improvement of
R1 goes under their eyes,
fine lines and had a more even skin tone.
Again, surprisingly consistent with
many of the claims made
by popular skin carried.
However, one important element,
these three studies to consider that is
often left out of popular skincare videos
discussing retinal is that
the patients were
receiving retinoic treatments
consistently for over four months before
the effectiveness the retinoid
became at all evident.
So the subtle narrative and
many popular skin care
YouTube videos discussing retinal
that highlight the benefits
while conveniently leaving out
the timeframe and commitment
required to see results are
pushing idea that OTC retinoids
are miracle cure at aging,
which is disingenuous as hardly the case.
Now that we know that there's evidence
supporting the efficacy of
retinoic acid and other retinoid derivatives
in terms of their anti-aging effects.
We can move on to
our third and final question.
How does retinol and how to
other retinoids even work
to reduce the signs of aging.
According to the most relevant research,
there are three primary ways
in which retinal and
retinoids can reverse typical signs of aging.
The first is through the reduction of
fine lines and wrinkles.
In this scenario, retinoids
allow the skin to become more
permeable by glycosaminoglycans synthesis.
Glycosaminoglycans play a large role
in cell regeneration of the skin,
which then gives rise to college and census,
which acts as a building block for the
formation of new fresh skin.
Collagen is formed through the increase in
growth factor TGF-Beta and procollagen.
The second way in which retinol can
help aging skin is by reducing
hyperpigmentation through
accelerating the rate of skin cell turnover.
This reduces the contact between melanocytes,
produce melanin, keratinocytes,
which play a large role in Skinner pair.
Finally, retinoids are useful
in promoting smooth skin.
But once again,
increasing skin cell turnover.
But cell proliferation is
flooded through the binding of
retinoic acid receptors and
transcription genes that continue to promote
skin cell differentiation and synthesis.
Now that we know that there's evidence
supporting the efficacy of retinoic acid,
another retinoid derivatives in
terms of their anti-aging effects,
we can feel a little bit
better about the height.