I grew up far from the ocean,
but I think my toes have been in the sand
pretty much from day one.
My parents
were always taking me to the beach.
I kind of grew up in the shore break,
so it was probably inevitable
that I'd end up chasing waves
most of my life.
I think every lifelong surfer
can remember the moment
that they got hooked.
It's easy
to spend the rest of your life
chasing that feeling,
and that's kind of what I did.
I've surfed
all over the world
and I could live anywhere.
But somehow this place captured my soul.
And for me, there's
no better place
to live a surfing life
than the Outer Banks.
Of course,
these days, surfing is not my only focus.
Now there's a whole new dimension,
and she's changed everything.
And all I want to do
is soak up every moment with her.
The times we have together
are so precious.
I just feel gratitude
for all of it.
It all goes by so fast,
but I feel so lucky
that we've gotten to do it
all here in this amazing place.
And I guess I have surfing to
thank for that.
Sometimes I wonder which moments
she'll remember
and which ones
will become a part of her story.
She may never get as excited
about surfing as I did,
but I'm pretty sure the Outer Banks
will be a part of her forever,
and I really can't think of a better
gift to give her than that.