Tucked away in the southwestern corner of the South Island lies a 1.2 million
hectare time capsule, of a beautiful, prehistoric New Zealand.
Luckily, keen adventurers can explore Fiordland's unique landscape through one
of the many walking tracks that weave through this glacially carved land.
One of the most challenging tramps (hikes) in Fiordland offers a truly unique experience
The Gertrude settle route is a tough, challenging and exposed seven kilometer
route that takes you from the side of state highway 94 up Gertrude Valley to
the top of the saddle and back down. This route can often be mistaken as a simple
day walk, but this is definitely NOT the case! It's a very demanding climb and
should only be attempted by those with a high level of backcountry alpine
experience and fitness. Gertrude Saddle Route should only be attempted
in the peak of summer, as snow covers the route from early autumn to late spring.
The route also crosses many avalanche paths making this tramp (hike) simply
impassable during winter. Summer sees an average daily temperature of 8 to
9 degrees (C) and remember this is the heart of Fiordland, so rain can be
expected for over 200 days of the year. You'll need to cross multiple rivers and
traverse steep granite slabs on this route. If rain or snow is present then
DON'T GO, as this makes the route extremely dangerous! You'll need warm +
wet-weather gear as well as a strong pair of tramping boots to comfortably
bring you home. Keep in mind there is no cell phone reception so a personal
locator beacon is recommended. As with all walks and tramps in new zealand's
make sure you leave your intentions with a trusted contact, and inform them when
you've finished your tramp. You can find out more about leaving your intentions
at the Mountain Safety Council website.
Before you begin the tramp, make sure you're in the right place! A small sign
on the main road marks Gertrude Valley and this is where you'll find the start of
the route. This is important as the entrance to the Homer Saddle Alpine route
is a kilometre down the road and occasionally people have mistaken the
two! Your day begins in an alpine meadow along a well formed and well mapped
route. This well formed section of the track quickly turns into a basic route
with very limited markings so you will need good route finding and tramping
experience past this point. There are no alternative routes or shelters on this
tramp so do not go any further if the weather is poor. If you get caught out
in bad weather, make sure you take extreme care to stick to the route as
wandering off route has lead to multiple fatalities. From here you will
start the climb up to the saddle. This is where a good footwear will come in
handy as the terrain consists mainly of rock and scree and gets
steep fast! Make sure you stick to the route as unstable rock and exposed cliff
faces are everywhere. After a bit of climbing you will reach
the waterfall area. This has proven to be one of the most hazardous parts of this
tramp so pay close attention here. Just below the waterfall there is a river
crossing point, marked by large orange triangles. It is absolutely essential
that you cross at THIS POINT. It is easy to miss this crossing, especially on your
way back down. If you miss this crossing, then immediately turn back and re-trace
your steps until you find it again. After the waterfall the route becomes quite
steep again, but now you have a decent climb on some very slippery loose rocks.
You'll need to do a mixture of tramping and scrambling to get up here as rocks
can easily slide out from underneath you and roll down toward anyone behind you.
Stay as a group, and talk about your movements, help others out and ensure you
take your time to pass through the section. As you move up the route the
scree will eventually give way to big granite slabs. Take extreme care when you
are on these slabs as they can be very slippery when wet or icy and one slip
here could be fatal! Follow the orange triangles along the
granite slabs, as they will lead you along the safest path. This will greatly
reduce your chances of slipping. Continuing along the slabs will bring
you to a steep section with steel cables installed. Use these cables to help you
get up to Black Lake.
Black Lake is a good spot to have a break but don't
linger too long as it's not too far to the saddle.
From here you'll have more
granite slabs to climb.
Again there are some steel cables to use, but be careful
as it can get very slippery up here.
After a bit of rock scrambling you'll
eventually reach the saddle.
This is one of the most exposed spots on the route
and high winds can be a problem.
However, if the weather is good this is a
beautiful spot to have some lunch and take some photos.
From up here you'll see
if any bad weather is coming in from the west and if you're lucky you'll have a
great view of Milford Sound.
Make sure you stay back from the edge of the
settle as there is a seven hundred meter drop to the valley floor! Also, don't
wander too far from the saddle as climbing the higher peaks is only
suitable for highly-skilled and properly equipped mountaineers.
It's important to remember that the top of the saddle is only the halfway point.
You now have to do everything again but in reverse.
The descent is always much
harder than the ascent and injuries or getting lost are much more likely to
occur on the way down.
Take extra care with your foot placement and allow
plenty of time to make it down safely.
Remember to pay special attention to the
waterfall area as the crossing point can be easily missed!
Look for the orange
marker poles and move from one to the other.
It's essential to only cross at
this marked crossing point and not to keep following the river down as there
may be very large cliffs and unsupported slopes below which have resulted in
multiple fatalities.
Then you just need to keep following the route all the way
down and out of the valley.
Although this trip could be considered a short option
it is one of the most advanced day trips and New Zealand's.
Its difficulty should
not be underestimated, but it is a rewarding challenge for those who have
prepared accordingly and have the appropriate experience.
Remember not to attempt this tramp outside of summer or in less than
perfect weather conditions.
If conditions aren't good or you're not sure
Gertrude Saddle is right for you, then we highly recommend alternatives such as
Lake Marion or Key Summit.
Both of these tracks are also accessed from the Te Anau
Milford highway.
Make sure you check out the official Fiordland National Park
weather forecasts at MetService.com
Finally, seek advice on the latest
information on track conditions by talking to the DOC staff at the Fiordland
National Park visitor centre in Te Anau.
No matter what, you can't escape the beauty
of Fiordland
#MakeItHomeNZ