So we have a hip pocket on the right hand side.
Two and half in.
Six.
Two and a half.
Two and three quarters.
How many years have you been at Anderson & Sheppard?
Mm, thirty, forty years now.
A long time.
We use the machines
to do the seams, to strengthen it.
But a lot of it is hand sewn.
The fly is hand sewn.
The pocket mouth, inside, is hand sewn.
Then the insides are finished.
Right.
That's now done, and we go over to the pressing machine.
You mark out the top sides. You transfer the information onto the underneath ones,
to the right side.
Same on the underside.
And then you mark out your bits that you need.
The bands, and the fly and the button catcher, and then the rest of it you get bits to piece
together sort of thing.
And away you go.
And here we have all the bits and pieces.
So linen that will go behind the pocket, and then the pocketing and this is the demet,
which will go on top of the canvas when we make the canvas up, to build it up.
So mark stitching we use a basting cotton.
It's basically just so that when the two pieces of cloth get separated,
the mark stitch will then be on the other side of the cloth.
And it just helps us for like working out where different things are on the cloth.
So like the pocket, the lapel, so where it will roll.
The button holes.
The shoulders.
Basically I'm going over the chalk marks that the cutters would do upstairs and we'll just
decide the size of the outbreast pocket that we think is the best size with relation to
how big the job is.
Yeah, we're kind of just like refine the lines that they do upstairs.
For the first fitting, we will actually put lining in the pockets in.
So quite a lot of the work is done.
So it will look like a proper jacket once it's tried on the customer.
On a forward all of the pockets are put in.
An undercollar, which we make up ourselves.
And the sleeves are basted in with no linings.
So the fitting will be done by one of the cutters and all the alterations will be marked.
If it is a bit tight or it needs letting out or maybe the sleeves are a bit long or maybe
if the sleeves need lengthening.
Then it will come back to me and then we will then put the back lining in.
Here's one with the sleeves fully made up.
All the lining is in.
And all of the button holes will all be done by hand by someone we call the finisher.
The cutter is cutting them, the tailor is putting them together.
The finishing is actually finishing the product.
It's closing everything.
It's actually many hours.
We do work many hours for the jacket.
And I'm not sure if the customer knows that..
But definitely they see the value and the results of it, so.
Must be something special about it.
I've been at Anderson & Sheppard for right about now over thirty years.
I would say about thirty three years.
Now a suit off the peg, the lapel will be totally ironed totally right flat to the first
button hole, which is where our mark stitch is.
But on a bespoke suit what we do, the roll is all determined by via the collar.
The undercollar.
You get it lined up.
Exactly where the first button hole would be.
And there we have it rolling to the first button.
All that's pressed is from here to here.
Our forward is now ready for the fitting on the customer.
–Good afternoon, sir.
–Good afternoon, Mr. Powell.
–Are you keeping well?
–Very well, and you?
–Okay, let's just turn you around into this mirror please.
We'll just work our way round from the top.
Once again, good on the neck.
It's nice, you got a nice half inch of collar showing all the way around.
Shoulders are good.
I'd personally leave them at that.
I wouldn't draw them in, or it'll feel too tight and restrictive.
Got a little bit of ease in the back.
We might give you just a fraction more ease.
It's a little tight.
Actually, here.
Just to give a bit of...
Waist is nice.
Length looks good.
How do you feel about length?
Oh, I love it.
It looks great.
It's amazing.
Let's try to find a bit of cuff.
The only other thing at first glance I would do as well..
The shirt looks a good length.
What I'd personally do would be bring that down.
What you want to show is between a quarter and maybe half an inch of cuff.
Also...
Let's pick the back of the sleeve up as well.
What it'll do is give a cleaner line down the back of the sleeve
so it's not bunching up.
At the moment there's a little bit...yeah, just the back of the crowns of the sleeve
need to be picked up a fraction.
Which helps.
Then unto the front.
Button position.
Lapels are sitting nice over the chest.
Lapel width is a nice width for you.
Chest looks good.
It's got a little bit of drape.
Once again, I'd leave that.
I wouldn't take any of that away.
Okay.
How does it feel?
Really, really comfy.
Yeah.
I do feel a bit of umm...
We'll let it go a fraction in the back.
Otherwise, I love the shape.
Shape's good.
It's got suppression.
Lapel width, nice width.
–In general, looks very, very nice.
–Excellent.
About four weeks, sir.
And we'll be all ready for the next fitting.