A wide-leg pant with no side seam is an easy garment to put together and sew.
And the elastic waist makes it super comfortable and it looks good in many types of fabric!
Hi I’m Angela Wolf, let me show you how easy it is to make this super flattering pant
style.
I'm using the Taper and Wide Leg Pant pattern from Christine Jonson Patterns, but these
techniques would work for any similar pattern style.
These pants are super-easy because there's only one pattern piece to work with!
Take a look at the grainline on the pattern piece, I've lined this up with the grainline
on the fabric - the grainline is typically parallel to the selvage.
This will mean the drape of your pants will look its best.
Here's the pattern piece all cut out with the notches and hem markings transferred.
These will help us match the pieces up later on.
You can see on the pattern that this is the inseam, and there is no outside leg seam.
Something to remember - if you're using a woven fabric that has no stretch like I am,
choose a waist size that's large enough to get over your hips otherwise it's going to
be a real struggle to pull them on!
We're going to start with the inseam.
With right sides of the fabric together, line up the notches and pin the front leg to the
back leg.
Line up the seam allowance with the 5/8” marking, back stitch and stitch all the way
from the crotch to the hem.
I'm using a contrasting thread, but you'd choose a matching color.
Finish the seam allowances: I am going to trim the seam allowances with pinking sheers.
You could use an overlock stitch, zigzag stitch, or a serger.
Whatever you prefer.
Look for the triple notches on the crotch seam - this is the back of the pants.
Press the seam allowance in this direction.
OK - one leg down - one to go!
Just follow the same steps again for the second leg.
Once you've done that, you'll join the two legs together at the crotch seam.
Have one pant leg with the wrong side facing out in one pant leg with the right side facing
out.
Insert the leg with the right side facing out into this pant leg - line up both inseams
and pin.
You can see both of these sides are wrong sides now.
Line up the notches - one notch refers to the front of the pant, place a pin and these
triple notches refer to the back.
Pin all the way round this crotch seam.
Next, you'll stitch along this entire crotch curve.
Starting at the top edge, back stitch once or twice and stitch all the way around.
When you get to the inseam make sure both the seam allowances are facing the back of
the pant legs.
"Again, you’ll finish the seam edge just like before and then press the crotch seam
to one side.
/ A sleeve board or a full size ironing board
is perfect for this job."
Next, attach the elastic to the waist line.
Start by measuring the elastic around your waistline to determine how tight you want
the elastic.
Wrap the elastic around your waist and pin.
Mark the where the elastic crosses.
Cross the elastic pieces, lining up the marking and zigzag stitch back and forth.
trim off the excess elastic Now with fabric marker make marks on the elastic
center back - center front Line the elastic up along the wrong side of
the fabric, matching up the center front seam with the center front marking on the elastic
and the center back marking with the center back of the pants.
Stretch the elastic and add a few pins - this will help to ease the elastic in evenly all
the way around the waist Stitch the elastic to the fabric with a zigzag
stitch of 1.4 length and 3.5 wide.
As you do this, make sure to stretch the elastic to match the length of the fabric.
Finish your edge and then turn under the elastic toward the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin at the center back seam and the center front - and lets just add one pin to each
of the side seams Line up the edge of the presser foot with
the edge of the elastic and topstitch the bottom edge of the elastic to the fabric with
a slightly bigger zigzag of 1.8 long and 4.5 wide.
Make sure the elastic butts up to the fold and stretch the elastic to match the length
of the fabric.
Stitch over the first stitch just a little and backstitch - and the waist is finished.
The final step is hemming your pants Using the hem allowance marking, press the
fabric up toward the wrong side of the fabric.
Tuck under the raw edge 1/2" and press again.
At the machine check to make sure your needle will just catch the folded hem allowance edge.
On the right side of the fabric, topstitch the hem in place with a straight stitch of
3.5.
To keep that line of stitching straight use the guidelines on your throat plate.
Give the hem one more pressing and the pants are finished!
You have made a great pair of pants in a couple of hours!
Thanks for watching!
To get this pattern, fabric, or more expert instruction, be sure to click the "i" in the
top-right corner of this video.