hi all this is the make Haven badging video for the horizontal bandsaw the horizontal bandsaw
is a little different than the vertical bandsaw obviously because it's horizontal but another
big difference is that it's the head that moves including the blade and the material
is stationary versus pushing the material through the stationary blade on a bandsaw so the way this
works is this whole head comes up the material goes underneath and then it comes down at a
predetermined rate this doesn't do any angles it won't miter so it's just for ninety degree cuts
what also makes this machine pretty cool is that it can feed automatically so say you want to make
10 pieces all a footlong it can feed that out automatically for you so that's a pretty great
feature so we're gonna get started on how to use it some things you want to check before you get
started or that it has coolant in the tank so we're just going to look around to this tank
down here and there's some pretty gnarly looking coolant it looks fine you want it to be you know
two-thirds maybe three-quarters of the way up if it's getting low you can just grab the hose
from the waterjet on the backside of the water jet bring it over and fill it back up and then
occasionally a facilitator or staff person will add some coolant the coolant is added at about
10% concentration so you can fill it back up with water and then we'll just add a splash or
coolant to keep it balanced in terms of safety in addition to the eye protection that you're always
wearing in the metal shop no gloves you know maybe you know when you're handling something
with sharp ends while you're handling it that's fine in general in the metal shop unless it's for
something hot or something with sharp edges you don't want to be having gloves around and spinning
things they can get caught and then versus a finger really get cut the whole glove will get
pulled in and you'll have a really bad time it's not loud it doesn't really you know they might
splash a little coolant but you obviously want to make sure that all body parts any strings just
everything stays well clear of the blade goes out saying in fact any strings on clothing or dangling
earbuds should be tucked away when you're in the metal or wood shop so we're gonna get this set
up just to cut this square tube stock we're just gonna do it in manual mode first and then we'll do
it in the automatic mode so that you can see the differences so now you can see these two lights
are illuminated power on it's fairly obvious and then bar feed empty so there's a little switch in
here that can detect when metal has been clamped in it and so it knows that there's nothing clamped
in it so what we're gonna do is it won't actually let us raise the head until there's material in it
so we're gonna come around to the back side and feed the material so I'm just gonna slide it in
here and then I'm gonna come back around and then there are two handles here on this side in general
you only need one of them just this bottom one so I'm going to turn this until it clamps on the
material and so now it's it's clamp you can see me coming off going back on obviously if you're
doing some really wide you'd want to back off always but we're clamped on and you can see the
bar feed empty light is now off because it can feel that there's material this other handle is
the pressure that the head is coming down with it's set at the factory I checked it before we
got started there may come a time where we want to change it but for now it's pretty good so we just
mostly use the bottom handle in terms of blades right now it has a medium tooth count blade on it
that could do steel and aluminum my old you know maybe low carbon steel and same deal over here
this to the blade is spinning in this direction so this is where a lot of chips are gonna get
built up and then sort of dump down here into this trough and the coolant also drips back down with
time to this little scraper guy here you can use this just a scrape that chips out into a bucket
and throw in the trash if it looks like the teeth are worn when it's off you can touch it and see if
there's if it's biting your fingers you should be able to slide your fingers in one direction
easily but then not in the other direction there should also be set to the teeth so set means when
you run your fingers along the sides you should feel it rubbing your fingers if you're not feeling
anything then the teeth have been smooshed into a straight line instead of alternating side to
side which is called set the set is necessary to give the body of the blade a path to go through
something that could do that is these bearings being misplaced so that's just giving like just
a quick check up on the blade if you are looking to change the blade that's something you can go
over the with a facilitator you just loosen the tension on the blade take it off put the new one
on it's not it's not anything crazy hopefully we can stick to using this blade and by using
responsibly its life will be pretty good one nice thing about this versus the vertical band saw or a
lot of other tools is that the feed speed is set and and the speed of the blade but that's strung
most tools is set by the machine so it's not like your arm is determining how quickly it goes so you
can dial that into a pretty good value all right so our materials clamps I I'm gonna scan back
into it alright so it's happy so now we can raise the head and what we want to do is have the head
raised to just above the material so I'm gonna bring it down something it's important to note
is it raises quickly so when you when you turn to raise it goes up at full speed when you go to
lower it lowers at the speed that you've set here the soft feed so right now it's set pretty low if
I turn it up it comes down more quickly so that's if if it looks like it's not coming down why isn't
coming down it's just clicking it's because this is set to zero so you just need to turn that up
to a higher values that it comes down more quickly so we're gonna have the right above the material
and I'm gonna go to the back side and tell the machine that this is the height it should stay
at so this it should consider this the highest point the way were gonna do that is by loosening
this big handle and pushing that right up to this little switch which is a little switch right there
and we're going to tap it against there and then crank down on it so now the machine is gonna push
up to that and stop so that's where it thinks the top is and that's going to be useful for
lining up marks on the material so we're gonna come back here and now that it's clamped it'll
let us move the material it needs to be raised all the way up so we're gonna turn raise it just
pushed against that switch that we set and now we can feed this forwards and backwards as we please
so let's say we had a mark on here and we were trying to you know get to that side of the mark
then we can either use these rollers to get it nice and close and then you could lower it if you
want you just need to be careful with the speed so you don't smash the blade if you are trying to get
really precise what you can do is just loosen the clamp on it and just just put it exactly
where you want it instead of trying to like twitch back-and-forth with the motor so now it's clamped
back in place and now we need to figure out how quickly we want the head to come down and how fast
we want the blade to spin so we can look on this on this chart we know that this is called a carbon
steel carbon free cutting and structural steel ten style doesn't matter to us so the blade speed feet
per minute is 125 200 the blade type and TPI or teeth per inch so the wall thickness is an eighth
of an inch and so it's under three-quarters this is saying 10 to 18 with a rake style so that's
fine that's ballpark what ours is and then it doesn't advise us on this speed that it comes
down with so this is just the blade speed that the speed that the blade is moving at so what we'll
do is we can I'll put another diagram here that you can reference it's also in the manual which
lives behind the tool but it there charts that lists various speeds so this is the the manually
printed out there's a lot of great information in here and so this will tell you some of the other
speeds and values most often you can just get a feel for it on aluminum you can go faster on steel
you have to go slower something like bronze you can also go pretty fast so you just start start
slow and increase the speed to get a good finish so that's that's what we're gonna do so I'm going
to check the speed over here so the speed is indicated right here so right now it's sitting
at like 250 so we want to bring that down but you can only change this when it's running when it's
spinning so what I'm going to do is turn the the saw feed to zero so I can turn this on and now
you can bring this down about 150 so should be able to see that the little red line is it
about 150 alright so as you can see the coolant is spraying out there are so that the coolant sprays
onto the blade if you have a weird shaped part and you feel that the coolant isn't adequately
getting to your piece there's also a manual hose so you can take this and just spray it right on
you can also clear chips off this way but that can be a good way of keeping the parts clear in
general for coolant you could just leave it on the head we covered that roller feed we covered
that and we're in manual mode will go over auto mode next so the reason it's not moving right
now is only because the saw feed is set to zero so what I'm going to do is just increase that
and now it's coming down with a pressure set by a big spring in there and the speed
based on the hydraulic lift the pistons setting so at first it was cutting through
that top wall now it's cutting through the sides which is much faster and then
it'll get to the bottom I'm gonna turn the speed down just a little
and then once it cuts all the way through it'll hit a switch which will tell it to turn off and
it will stop slowly cutting through the bottom and cool so something I didn't mention is if
you have longer stock there are these rollers that you can move to wherever you want them
short or longer etc so that that's pretty much how manual bone works when you want to remove
your material you can just loosen it up and grab it pull it out of the back end you could
also tell it to raise the head and then loosen it up and pull it out so now we're going to go
on to automatic mode automatic mode again is if you want a bunch of pieces of a certain
size if so the way it works is there is this is it has a little switch in it and the metal
comes and pushes up against here using its automatic rollers and then it'll click the
switch and that'll tell it good start cutting cut and then the piece needs to fall if the
piece doesn't fall the next one can't feed in and then same deal over and over again so we're gonna
get this pretty close it's gonna move this guy backwards just because our piece of metal isn't
terribly long and then we have this back here and this is a fine adjustment so we're gonna
move you down here okay and then this adjusts where your little the poker is so if you you
know based on your piece of metal so we're going to try to aim right for that corner so our head
is raised all the way up so we're gonna move you forwards and just try to hit about there
okay so then I'm gonna lock this position then if you wanted you could use this as a
fine adjustment obviously this is arbitrary so it doesn't matter but this reads out the
length right here there's a little ruler with that red arrow pointing right to that edge so
you could adjust it and then but this right up to the edge of it and that would be your
length measurement so now this is saying there's just a hair over two inches which looks about
right all right so this is locked down so the next step is to put it into auto mode this is
a counter which may at some point work so you could tell it how many parts you wanted right
now it isn't working so it'll just keep going so now it's good to go so we'll click start
so it's gonna cut through
all right so it's cut all the way through and then it's gonna hit the bottom click
up boom and it's starting on the next one so as you can tell that's a pretty great feature
if you're trying to do a whole bunch instead of getting everything lined up perfectly each
time the only other thing that I think is worth mentioning is that occasionally
when you're in manual mode this head gets in your way so what you need to do about
that is loosen that stainless steel bolts so that this whole piece tilts out of the
way of your of your material coming through so you grab a wrench or just do it by hand
to loosen that and turn it out of the way I didn't mention that this is the stop button
so I'm gonna hit this button after it finishes the cut and then show you just a few more things
plink it's gonna come all the way down all right cool so one thing I'm going to show you is these
are the spacers so similar to on a normal bandsaw where you have the blade guard and it has bearings
that guide the blade this has the same thing and you can adjust their position so right now
they're set as close together as they can be but what you can do is set them further apart if you
had really wide stock you pretty much want them to be as close together as they can be it's the
only reason you would move them is if your material was was really quite wide but you
just loosen them whack that in and then slide it over so nothing nothing crazy there there's
a stop here so you don't go too far and then on this guy I don't know if there is a stop but you
can't go too much farther this way or else it's going to start hitting pieces on the inside of
the saw here something else is you can control the amount of coolant flow with these little
valves here so right now all the way up this full coolant you could close it so now coolant won't
come out so that's pretty useful same deal on the other side so you can see that controls the
coolant coming in and out in terms of cleaning up the tool it's obviously not the cleanest tool
to begin with but if this is starting to fill up with chips you just want to scrape it out
that's especially important so that the coolant can continue to drain otherwise it'll just fill
up if you you know you can grab a brush off the wall sweep the chips out of there unfortunately
does get the floor pretty wet especially if you have a long tube what will happen is it's filling
with pool in here and pouring it out here so if you want you can take your hand Jakub you
know something to clog up the end shove some paper towel in there so the coolant drains
out this side but unfortunately that tends to happen I think that's it thanks for watching