Hi, this is Teri with Tree Marie Soapworks. Today I'm going to be showing you
how to make this soap it's a line pour or you could also call it an in the pot
swirl (ITPS). Stay tuned to the end of the video and I give you some tips to set you up
for success and also I give some Tree Marie Soapworks news. Let's get started.
First, I start by using about 1/3 of my water weight in distilled water ice
cubes. And then I top off the remaining water wait in cold distilled water. Today
I'm adding powdered sugar or icing sugar to my water at a rate of one teaspoon
per pound of oils. And I just use my cordless mini mixer to dissolve it
completely. I do this to help my batter stay fluid for a little bit longer, so I
usually use it with a fragrance that I'm not familiar with or with one that is
known to speed up. Next, I measure my lye or sodium hydroxide, and this is where
you need to be very careful. Always wear a safety gear, and we're at the whole
time you're dealing with lye and then the batter. So I wear gloves I wear long
sleeves and I make sure I have closed toed shoes on and, also eye protection is
very important. So I wear safety goggles. Next, I add my sodium hydroxide or lye to
my distilled water and I stir that until it's dissolved. And by adding these ice
cubes before that really helps to eliminate the fumes. You get kind of a
chemical smell when you add lye and when the lye heats up. So by causing it to
heat up less, it causes less of a chemical smell. When your lye is
completely dissolved in your water, I measure up my sodium lactate and I
measure that at the same rate as I measure my sugar. It's a rate of one
teaspoon per pound of oils. When I finish with these, I set them aside in a
well-ventilated area that's free from any kids or pets. Now that my life
solution is cooling, I measure out my heart oil starting with my coconut oil
and then my palm oil. And this is no-stir palm oil and for that reason you can
just dip it out of your container and you don't have to completely melt the
whole container and mix it up and then pour it. Next, I melt these hard oils in
the microwave until they're just barely melted.
While I'm microwaving my heart oils I go ahead and measure my liquid oils,
starting with my castor oil, and then my olive oil. I use a little squeeze
bottle just to top off the measurement that I need so that I don't go over.
Because I'm measuring all these ingredients into the same container. If
you go over it's kind of hard to take the ingredient out. Next, I measure my
fragrance and I'm using Moon Child from Bramble Berry and also some lime
essential oil from Bramble Berry. You can see that I am pouring down a stick just
to make sure that the fragrance goes down the stick and not down the side of
the bottle. Now let's prepare our colorants. Today all the colorants I'm
using are from Nurture Soap and our first one is Proud Peacock. You really
don't need to use a palette knife and a sheet of plexiglass like I'm using. It's
just my preferred method, and when you're using Mica's you can mix them straight
into your batter. But there are two reasons why I don't like to put them
straight into my batter. One reason is that you have to stir them in more and
any extra stirring or stick blending is going to cause acceleration of your
batter. Also if you put them in dry, that's going to take up a little bit of
the moisture in your batter too so that also causes acceleration. Our next color
it is Klein Blue. All the colorants that I'm using today I'm using at a rate of
one and a half teaspoons per pound of oils. And I use Elements Bath and Body's
Colorant Calculator to figure out these colorants.
Our next colorant is Cheshire Cat. If you're using oxides, ultramarines, and
neons, those are the ones that tend to really clump, and if you use a palette
knife to mix those that really helps to squish out all those little specks, and
believe me you don't want those specks in your soap because when you cut them
they smear and even sometimes if they're big enough, if you use the bar it'll make
a streak down your skin, so it's good to get all those little clumps out before
you add it to your batter. I have already dispersed my titanium
dioxide in olive oil. And I use a rate of one part titanium dioxide to three parts
of olive oil. Next, I add my liquid oils to my melted hard oils. And I just wanted
to show you something. See how there's streaks in there? That is from the olive
oil olive. Oil has some palmitic acid and a little bit of stearic acid. So
that's what makes these streaks. So those are saturated fats.
So you just need to stir it in and it'll melt pretty quickly. I soap between
temperatures of 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit or 29 to 35 degrees Celsius.
At this point I add my sodium lactate to my cooled lye water and then I strain my
lye water into my oils. Next I weigh the bowl in the contents and I subtract off
the weight of the bowl and then I multiply that by 20%. And that gives me
the weight of the turquoise, blue, and purple. And then the remaining 40% would
be the white. Next, I stick blend until an emulsion is reached. And an emulsion is
reached when the batter stays mixed and there's no oils floating on the top, and
when you look at the bell of your stick blender, there's no little dots that
start to separate. You should have a thin even film of soap on your stick blender.
At this point, I split my batter using the numbers that I found earlier, so
there will be three 20%'s of the batter and then left in the batter bowl will be
40%.
When you're finished splitting your batter, just add to the blue, purple, and
turquoise to the smaller amounts and then add the titanium dioxide to the
bigger amount of batter.
once my colorants were all mixed in I added the fragrance. And I just took 20%
of the amount and added it. So here I'm adding around 13 grams to each of these
and then the remaining goes in the white.
Next, use something to prop up the far side of your mold so, if you're
right-handed that would be your left side. And then prop it up about an inch or
an inch and a half, which would be like two and a half centimeters to three
centimeters. And then pour a little of your white into your turquoise. I stir my
other batters just to make sure they stay fluid while they're kind of waiting
to be poured. And I just pour back and forth and it makes kind of a striation
effect. Just pour down the wall of the side that's closest to you and when it
starts to get almost gone you add the next color and continue to pour. And the
rest is pretty self-explanatory just by watching. When I'm finished with this I
cover it and I put it in the oven that's preheated to the lowest temperature. And
I just put this in the oven and I turn the oven off. And make sure you turn the
oven off. And then I turn the oven light on and the oven light helps the ambient
temperature just to stay warm. And I usually just turn that light off before
I go to bed, and then in the morning I take the soap out of the oven and I cut
it either that day or the next day, kind of depends on the humidity. If it's more
humid I leave it in the mold for another day because sometimes it still develops
soda ash after I take it out of the oven. But in the wintertime I don't have
problems with that, so I can cut it the first day out of the oven. I want to talk
to you a little bit about why I oven process my soap. I used to just use a
heating pad but it seems like oven processing is just easier, and the reason
why I do it is I use a water discount in my soap. So if you're using my recipes
and you're using my amounts it's probably a good thing to oven process
your soap too. And the reason it is good for that is because the water discount
causes the soap to go through saponification a little faster, or it
just needs the extra nudge to get all the way through gel, because it goes fast
and it just sometimes doesn't get all the way through gel out to the edges. So
in order to avoid a partial gel, I just want to force it all the
way through gel, so that there's no rings inside my soap. If you're using
full water in your soap you don't need to oven process your soap you might get
glycerine rivers or even overheating. So if you want your soap to go through gel
and you're using full water, you probably could just cover your soap, and have it
go through gel. Water discounting doesn't make your soap cure any faster. I really
believe in using the same six weeks for your soap to cure. I think a well cured
bar is so much better when you use it.
Water discounting helps with many issues including soda ash and glycerine rivers.
Watch my video that has the black soap with the gold top; I speak about it in
that video. I just want to let you know what's going on in my head and what I
need to make this work. The ad revenue I'm making off of these videos is not
much, and I put a lot of work into these videos. And it's just not equaling out so
in order for me to keep doing this I need to find another way of making money.
And what I've decided to do is just instead of giving out the recipes which
I've given out a lot of them, I'm going to sell the recipes on my website. These
would be recipes that would actually include the measurements and not just
the percentages, so you would have your amount in grams and in ounces, and
temperatures in Fahrenheit and Celsius, and I would do a little outline of what
you're supposed to do and link it to the video time so that you can go right to
the video and see what I'm doing and then read a little bit about it. This way
you could just pick and choose which recipes you want and it's not a
membership or anything. And if I say, miss some videos one month it wouldn't be
like a channel membership where you're filling you're getting gypped because I
didn't do a video. This would just be for the videos that I have, I would create a
recipe. So let me know what you think about that. Also, I want to let you know a
way of supporting your favorite YouTubers that is completely free to you.
If you "like" their video a, you comment, and also you subscribe to their channel,
and hit the bell for notifications, and also you could share their video.
That gives the algorithm a cue that their videos worth watching so it'll
recommend that video to other people, so that helps them. But then also let the
ads play at least 30 seconds. You could watch the whole ad but if you just want
to watch the first 30 seconds. that really helps your favorite YouTubers out.
So these are just ways that you can support that don't cost you anything. If
you're interested in joining my Facebook group, I have a link below it's for
troubleshooting, and asking questions, and sharing what you make. You must join
under your personal account and not your business one. Please read the rules and
answer the three questions, so if you haven't been accepted into the group
it's probably because you haven't answered the questions. Thank you so much
to everybody that's placed orders in the last week, I so appreciate that, so just
thank you very much! And thank you so much for sticking it out to the end of
the video, and have a wonderful day! :)