even when I am in my studio it always feels really good to hold your camera
that's me today's video is dedicated to how to
master aperture and shutter speed in long exposure photography follow this
video because I'm going to tell you everything I know in order to achieve
the best exposure possible in long exposure photography
welcome to my channel here we talk about
photography and I make videos just like this one where I share some tips and
techniques to take better pictures so if you're here for the first time it might
be a good idea to subscribe since I made my long exposure tutorial that if you
didn't see yet you will find it right here I received a lot of questions about
exposure and shutter speed manual mode aperture priority what am i using and I
understand because it might sound a little complicated I mentioned that I
use aperture priority but then I switch into manual mode let me explain why
let's start with the aperture I'm sure that most of you saw my landscape
photography camera settings video in that video I explained why I prefer to
use aperture priority but going quickly through this concept again I mainly want
to accomplish two things I want to have the maximum sharpness possible and I also
want to have a very wide depth of field basically most of my images I want to
try to have most of the scene if not all of my scene in focus and f/8 or f/11 are
aperture that with my lenses will achieve those results and for any lens
that is on the market the maximum sharpness will be always in the
middle of your aperture range so once I select my aperture I will take a test
shot before putting any neutral density filter in front of my lens at that point I
will check my histogram and this is very important because as I mentioned in last
week videos it is important to make sure that your exposure will be positioned as
much as possible to the right of your histogram of course without clipping the
reason why is that when we are going to retrieve details from the shadows we
will have better results and we will not bring up any noise
while doing this so if I increase my shadows I will avoid to get a very noisy
image while if my exposure on the histogram will be positioned all the
way to the left it will mean that possibly this image is slightly
underexposed and I will be correcting these by increasing the shutter speed so
at this point switch to manual mode keep the same aperture and increase the
shutter speed until my histogram will move to the right as much as I wish and
now that my histogram looks good is in the right position
I will make sure to focus and then I can put my filters in front of my lens
talking about ND filters means that we are going to talk about shutter speed
basically the neutral density filter is what will let you control the shutter
speed at this point meaning that you can decide to go for a very very long
exposure with a very very long shutter speed using a super black 15 stops or 10
stops or a 6 stops or a 3 stops and you can see that on the 3 stops you can
basically see through on a 15 stops business black you don't
see anything so of course huge difference and huge
difference in results then is really up to you in deciding what kind of effect
you would like to achieve and people told me but Attilio these filters cost a
lot of money which one should I buy and I agree
these filters cost a lot of money the ones I'm using here they are all glass I
will put some link in the description below so you know what I used but at the
same time if you have to pick your first filter I would recommend to start with
the 10 stop filter and this is also how I started of course I didn't buy all my
filters at the same time I started with one and I started with the big
stopper from Lee filter and I also bought a graduated ND filter this is a
three stops soft edge that helped me in decreasing the dynamic range in a photo
and it often happens at sunrise or sunset that the sky is much brighter
than the foreground this helps me to balance the exposure a lot I have to say
the combination of the graduated ND filter and the ten stops is possibly
what I use 80% of the time
we were saying how the filters will actually help you to control the shutter
speed and the only thing that you will need is to have an ND calculator
application on your phone I will link a few in the description but with practice
and experience I guarantee you that you will be able to set your shutter speed
without even looking at the app anymore but one recommendation that I want to
give you is that at sunrise and at sunset
most of the time I don't follow what the app is telling me and I tell you why
especially in a very long exposure the light changes very quickly in those
moments and at sunrise of course the scene is becoming brighter
and brighter so if the application is telling me five minutes maybe I take one
minute out and will be four minutes because I know that my scene is becoming
brighter and brighter so I don't need such a long exposure vice versa at
sunset because the scene is becoming darker and darker even if the
application is telling me five minutes I may go for six or seven minutes
especially if I want to make sure that my exposure is positioning to the right
of my histogram so decrease the shutter speed at sunrise increase the shutter
speed at sunset I hope this video without the waves in the back the noise
wind relaxed and calm in the studio will clarify all the questions that I
received regarding aperture and shutter speed for long exposure photography
if you have other questions please write me a comment below if you like this
video click on the like button if you're not subscribed yet I think you should
but in any case thanks for watching and I will see you in the next video