In this video we’ll wire everything together and in the next video will fire it up, check
everything out and then jog the motor.
Here we go … I’m using this servo drive, and I’m using
single phase 120 VAC.
This wiring will also work for 220 volt single phase.
Wiring for 3-phase is similar.
There’s diagrams in the product insert that show both single and three phase power wirings.
I’ll add the power wires to this connector and plug it in.
It’s important to understand that this connector only powers the drives control electronics.
These guys power the output stage that drives the motor via this cable.
I’ve already crimped ferrules onto these wires so I’m just going to shove the U-wire
into the U-hole, V-wire into the V-hole and the W-wire into its hole and insert this power
connector into the drive.
And I’ll connect the ground wire.
I love these spring clamp terminals, you can just shove ferruled wires in and you are guaranteed
a tight connection, and you don’t have to worry about getting screws at exactly the
right torque or worry about them ever getting loose.
They are maintenance free.
I see in the drives product insert that for this drive and motor combination, we should
be using between 24 and 12-gauge wire for all power connections.
And below that chart we see what ferrule sizes we should be using for the different gauge
wires.
This product insert comes with the drive and it’s a really handy thing to have around.
If you misplace it, you can always download it for free at automationdirect.com.
Now we’re going to leave the motor end of the cable un-plugged until we have verified
everything is correct.
Notice that I am using the flex version of this cable.
I like this version because it is more durable and holds up better to continuous flexing
applications.
If I hold them side by side, you can see why.
The flex cable uses a lot more and finer strands of wire which prevent corkscrewing of the
cable in a cable carrier which helps it last longer.
While we are here, I’ll plug this encoder cable into the motor here and the drive here.
You have two ways to power the drive’s output stage:
First, you can bring in power through the usual magnetic contactor here and build a
sealing control circuit with a momentary normally open ON switch which allows current to flow
though the normally closed OFF switch, and through the magnetic contactors coil which
closes this sealing contact to keep current flowing after you release the momentary on
switch.
You would normally put a surge protection device across that coil to protect your system.
The current then flows through a normally closed alarm contact which the drive will
open if it sees a fault via drive output pin 5 where you connect an external alarm relay
that controls that alarm contact.
So current is flowing through the control circuit like this which keeps the contactor
closed and power flowing to the servo motor.
If someone opens the off switch or the servo system generates a fault, the current stops
flowing and the power to the motor shuts down.
The servo control electronics are still running, but the power to the motor is cut off.
That was the first option for controlling the motor power.
And it’s important to understand that all of this is external components you supply,
wire and maintain.
Depending on your application you may not want to remove the RST power because the motor
is no longer being controlled by the drive and will be left coast to a stop.
Which could possibly damage equipment or even harm personnel.
The second method of powering the drives output deletes all of this external hardware, so
now power is always applied to the output stage and we just add a single toggle switch
on input D1 and have it act as an enable for the output stage.
I’m wiring it like this because it’s the drive’s default, but you can also wire this
as a PNP connection.
This common is a dedicated digital I/O common – make sure you use that one with the digital
I/O's.
Safety is handled by adding a single STO safety relay at connector CN10.
Now the built in STO function disables the drive’s output when there is a fault.
We’ll learn how to set up STO in a separate video, so for now we’ll just take this pre-wired
jumper that comes with the drive and plug it in to CN10.
That bypasses the STO function which for our little test setup is fine because we aren’t
actually connected to a machine that requires a safety shut off.
On the Control Electronics power connector, there are three additional pins.
I’m going to move those down here.
Those are used to bypass the internal braking and add an external braking unit.
We’ll cover braking in a separate video so for now we just want to short these two
pins.
And the good news is the connector for that port comes with a jumper already installed
so we don’t have to do anything here.
The last connector is where you add a braking resistor.
We’ll cover that in a separate video so for now we just want to bypass it.
And guess what … that connector also comes prewired with the bypass jumper, so we just
plug that in here.
Finally, I added a normally open switch to reset alarms and a normally closed switch,
so we can test the Motor Override – think of that as a simplified ESTOP, but without
all the required safety stuff.
We don’t have overtravel limits because we don’t have a real machine, so I just
wired them like this to simulate their normally closed operation to prevent them from generating
faults.
The I/O's come out through this connector so I’ll plug this cable in here and the
other end into this breakout box where I have already wired up all of those switches.
This USB port is used with the SureServo2 Pro Configuration software which is amazing!
It makes configuring and debugging your drive a breeze.
You can download that right now for FREE at automationdirect.com.
The RJ45 port is a serial port – it’s NOT an ethernet port.
The cool thing about that is you can use any RJ45 ethernet patch cord to wire your serial
coms.
Check out the Modbus RTU video to see an example of that.
This is what that looks like all wired up.
While I’m going from the drive through this cable to take the signals to this remote terminal
breakout board, the SureServo2 also has this local terminal block option.
The terminals are labeled both on the connector housing and these green terminal blocks which
unplug for easy access.
It just plugs directly into the drive and is really convenient for those times when
you just need a few I/O or are controlling the dive primarily via coms.
And while I’m talking about handy tools … the drive and connector kit comes with
a couple of these guys.
If you use ferrules on your wires, you can just press them into place – no tools required.
Super easy, super reliable.
But if you need to use loose wires, this little tool just clamps on like this.
Then you just press here to hold open the jaws of the spring clamp.
Insert your wire, let go.
Pop it off and you are done!
Hang onto those – they make installing stranded wires so much easier than trying hold the
spring clamp open with a screw driver with one hand while you try to insert the wire
with the other.
I also appreciate that they give you two to make it easy to install jumpers.
Well, that’s it!
I did a lot of explaining in this video, but if you think about it, all we did was wire
up power to two places, connected the motors encoder and almost connected the motor – we’re
saving that for part 2.
We then plugged in all the pre-wired jumpers and added some toggle switches and an external
24-volt supply.
I also added a circuit breaker here.
Not bad at all.
I’ll put a link to this diagram and the parts list in the description below this video.
Join me in part two where we will fire this thing up, test everything and finally plug
the motor in and jog it.
Meanwhile, click here to learn more about the Sure Servo 2 system from AutomationDirect.
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