Welcome back!
In today's video, I'm going to talk about the Pea coat which I'm wearing right now.
I'll briefly discuss the history, its characteristics, the fabric and how you can buy one and what
you pay attention to.
Let's start with the brief history.
It's not entirely clear where the Peacoat actually came from, there is a Dutch version
that says it came from the word "pijjakker".
There is a Reefer version which came from the men who climbed up the mast.
Others say it was the British manufacturer Camplin in the 1850s who invented it.
Some others argue that it first appeared in the tailor and cutter in 1869 as a pea jacket.
At the end of the day, we don't know, personally I believe it had a military background just
like many other garments in men's clothing such as the trench coat.
One of the most important parts of the Pea coat is its fabric.
The fabric used for Pea coats is called Melton, which is a woven fabric usually made of a
100% wool sometimes with a cotton weft.
Today, sometimes it's used with an artificial weft but the core characteristics are that
it's heavy, it's slightly felted and thick so it gives a soft hand but it's still very
warm.Therefore, it's used by the US navy and the better qualities are a hundred percent
wool, some others are 80% wool with 20% polyester.
I suggest you go with a hundred percent wool versions which are higher quality and overall
the coat is not that expensive.
Occasionally you may find different versions or material compositions but I advise you
to stay clear of them because the best ones are a 100% wool.
One of the defining parts of the Pea coat is its collar.
It's called an ulster collar, it's very wide and it allows you to actually pop it up and
button it that's why you have an extra button here on the side, that way, you're protected
from the elements and it keeps you really warm when it's raining or when it's windy.
If you want to learn more about the details of the Pea coat such as the pocket lining,
different eras or the labeling, please check out our in depth guide on the website.
Also make sure to subscribe to our Youtube channel so you won't miss any other video
and don't forget to get our free eBook, 15 style mistakes and how you can avoid them,
I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
A Pea coat has 8 buttons, it's always double breasted so four on one side and four on the
other side.
Then, you have a 9th button on top that allows you to wear your collar closed and protect
yourself.
The traditional pea coat buttons have a little anchor on them and are black plastic buttons
and they're very popular and you see them all over the place today.
Even brands like Ralph Lauren have come up with their own interpretation of that style
but if you go to a regular military surplus store, they will definitely have the original
navy issue pea coat.
Of course, they've changed a little bit over the years but basically, you just have two
options, you have black plastic buttons or you have gold brass buttons.
The black plastic buttons are reserved for sailors at the US navy whereas the gold buttons
with the eagle on them are reserved for officers and chiefs.
Now if you wear it personally, you can also attach other buttons but then it's not an
original pea coat anymore.
The traditional cut of the pea coat is rather slim and it's actually wide at the bottom
because the reefers had to move up and down the mast so they need a little bit more space.
Usually, you will either see two short side vents or no vents or center vents for pea
coats.
Unlike other overcoats or topcoats, the length of the pea coat is very important and it just
reaches down to your hips maybe just a little below your hips but not any longer.
Basically, you can cover a jacket with it and it's just a good alternative to have in
your closet because it provides a different more youthful look and it's not like a big,
heavy overcoat that is calf length, knee length or even ankle length.
Pea coats have been around for a long time and even today, you can find old ones from
the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s or whenever.
Every Pea coat comes with a little bit of history, you can usually find the owner's
last name in there and if it was a US navy pea coat, you can always find the four last
digits of the social security number.
Of course, you can also buy it new but it's a little more difficult.
If you're in the US navy, it's no problem, it's very easy for you to buy one, they're
not expensive and it's a wonderful coat.
You should definitely get one.
If you're a civilian, there is a store called Sterlingwear in Boston, I suggest you look
on eBay, military surplus stores or consignment stores, you'll always find them there and
they are usually well under a hundred dollars and considering the quality and the warmth,
it's an amazing deal.
Make sure you get the heavy about 24 ounce, 750 grams melton cloth.
Look at the button holes, they're nice.
You want this 8 buttons, look at the condition, especially at the edges to make sure everything
is neat and clean and then enjoy your pea coat.