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In this video, we're going to show you how to remove the fuel pump in this 2008 Dodge
Ram 1500 equipped with a 26 gallon tank.
This information will vary slightly with the 34 gallon tank.
The lower the fuel level is in the vehicle, the easier this repair will be to perform.
Having a full tank can make these very heavy and difficult to maneuver.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: safety glasses, flat blade screwdriver, 10-16mm
sockets, ratchet, socket extensions, rag, pick, penetrating oil, vacuum cleaner, flat
punch or chisel, hammer, torque wrench, jack and jack stands.
Behind the inner wheel well liner on the driver's fender, you'll find a large connector running
to the rear harness of the truck.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry back the red safety as far as you can.
Lift up on this grey latch here.
You may have to push down.
Lift up on the grey latch.
Open that up all the way.
You don't have to remove this connector.
You just have to open the latch to separate the terminals.
Open the fuel door, and remove the fuel cap.
Now, when we start our truck, it's going to die.
We want to keep cranking for a few seconds after it dies to run the system out of fuel.
You'll want to use a 10 millimeter wrench to remove the negative terminal of your battery,
and set it off to the side.
Open the air box by releasing the metal clips on the side and the rear.
Pop it out of its holders, release this hose from the front, and, using a flat blade screwdriver,
loosen the clamp on the rear of the inlet pipe.
With that loosened up, work the pipe off of the box.
Remove this assembly.
The bottom half of your air box simply lifts off its retainers, and comes right out of
the truck.
Remove the two 10 millimeter bolts: one behind the alternator, and one behind the oil cap,
with a 10 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension.
Lift up on the air box so that you can access the intake air temp sensor at the front.
Push down on the connector.
Remove it from the IAT.
Remove the air box from the vehicle.
On the passenger side of the fuel rail, remove the cap on the schrader or pressure release
valve, using a thick rag or paper towel.
Place that below the valve to catch any excess fuel that comes out.
Using a small pick, press down on the tab in the center of the valve.
We're going to remove our evaporative emissions charcoal canister from our gas tank before
dropping our tank, partially to reduce the weight of the tank, and also because now is
a good time to inspect this for any cracks or damage, because these often become damaged
and can cause check engine lights for the evaporative emissions system leak check.
Push down on this tab in the center of the connector, and work the connector off of the
fitting.
You may hear a little gust of air when you do this, because there is pressure in this
canister.
Remove this hose at the top of the canister.
Twist it to free it up.
Pull that off as well.
Push down on the connector.
Remove that.
Push down on this tab to release the bottom of the charcoal canister from the holder.
This tab's twin is located on the top, so we'll push both of those in.
This is where the flat blade may come in handy, as these tabs can be a little sticky sometimes.
Release the rear of the canister, lay the canister out, and remove it from its retainer
on the front of the tank.
Locate the base of the fuel filler neck.
It's going to be under the driver's side of the bed, just before the rear tire.
You're going to want to wear safety glasses here, because you're working around fuel.
Undo the clamp on the fill tube.
You may need to use the screwdriver to pry under the bottom of the hose.
Break it free of the metal filler neck.
You can also do this with a large hose pick if you have one or you can try to twist it
by hand as well as with a pair of pliers if necessary.
You just want to be very careful not to tear through the hose in the process.
To release the quick connect bent line, we'll have to push down here.
Pull back to remove the fitting.
Using a 16 millimeter socket ratchet and extension, we're going to loosen the two long bolts.
We're going to loosen the nuts all the way down to the bottom.
Allow the straps to hang down before removing our tank.
We've soaked ours in penetrating oil, as these do tend to get pretty rusty and want to break.
We've loosened it down to the last couple of threads, pushed our strap down to let it
hang.
Now, as we loosen the other side, bring the tank down.
Remove the plastic cover from the forward most part of the gas tank here.
Remove this quick connect line.
Locate the fuel pump in the center of the tank, and remove the plastic cover on it.
Release the red safety tab on this electrical connector.
Push down on the tab, and remove the connector.
Be careful not to break off the red safety on the quick fuel connector line.
If you do, use a pick to remove the rest of the safety tab, then push down on the tab
and release the fuel line from the top of the pump.
With the help of a friend or a floor jack, you're going to lift up on the gas tank, loosen
the last few threads of the nut that we left on the straps, bend the straps out of the
way, and lower the tank down.
Ours is up in the air on the lift, so we've put a work bench underneath here so we don't
have to drop it out as far.
Be sure to wear safety glasses and any other safety equipment you see fit when removing
the fuel tank.
Place the nut out of the way once you've removed it.
Hang the straps down.
Now, we'll come down slowly to make sure that everything's disconnected.
I've got to get around the diff over here.
Set her on the table.
The fuel pump is going to be this piece located in the center of the tank here.
This lock ring secures the fuel pump down into the tank.
You're going to want to make sure you vacuum out all this area to remove any sand and debris
so it doesn't fall down into our gas tank when we remove the pump.
This lock ring, you're going to use a flat punch or a chisel or screwdriver if necessary.
Set it into one of these channels so we can tap it counterclockwise, and release the ring,
allowing us to remove the fuel pump.
Move the lock ring.
Go ahead and make one more pass under there with the vacuum cleaner before you actually
remove the fuel pump.
Lift up, and carefully remove your fuel pump assembly from the tank.
Remove the old O ring, clean out the channel, and any remaining debris from the top of the
tank.
Our fuel pump's okay, so we'll be re-installing it.
We do want to use a new gasket.
Set the fuel pump back in.
You'll see it says "locator" across the top of the tank.
That's where this fin on the back of the pump goes.
Tap the fuel pump down into place.
Set the lock ring back on.
You'll want to try to turn it as far as you can by hand, to make sure that all of these
teeth engage before we start tapping.
Tap it clockwise until it seats back in.
When reinstalling the fuel tank into the truck, be sure that these two lines go over the frame
right here so they line up with the filler neck when we reinstall.
We're going to lay the cover back over the top of the fuel pump here.
We're not going to snap it in yet, because you are going to want to maneuver it around,
but you have to run the fuel line and the electrical connector through here onto where
they go before we can snap it into place.
Make sure that's up there and ready to go.
With the help of a friend, move your tank straps out of the way.
Lift up on the fuel tank.
Then, be sure that those lines for the filler neck go up over the frame in the correct place.
Start the nuts a couple of threads each, and allow the tank to hang down in the straps
while we reconnect everything on the top of our pump.
Reinstall the cap at the forward most part of the tank.
Reconnect all the fittings and electrical connectors on the top of the fuel tank.
Push the cover back over the lock plate.
Using the 16 millimeter socket ratchet and extension, tighten up the nuts on the gas
tank straps.
Torque the tank strap nuts to 30 foot-pounds.
Here we have the EVAP, or the evaporative emissions control charcoal canister.
This takes in and holds the evaporative emissions or the fumes that come off of your exhaust
as it gets hot and cold in the tank.
This canister is full of charcoal, which holds onto those emissions until it's safe for us
to send them back through the engine and burn them efficiently.
Oftentimes, you can get a check engine light for an EVAP leak.
It's not uncommon for these canisters to develop small cracks in them.
While we have ours out of the vehicle, we're going to take a look over it.
Just check all the plastic.
Make sure that there's no cracking anywhere.
We have some little scratches here, but nothing that goes through the case.
Check the back, top, sides.
Everything looks good with our canister, so we're going to go ahead and reinstall it.
Reinstall the front hook of your charcoal canister.
Snap the rear into place.
Reinstall the electrical connector.
Reconnect the rubber hose on the top, and the quick disconnect on the bottom until it
locks into place.
Reconnect the quick connect line onto the fuel filler neck until it clicks.
Reconnect the fill tube.
Slide your hose clamp over, and tighten it down with a flat blade screwdriver.
Screw the cap back onto your schrader valve.
Reinstall the end of the air box with the silicone gasket over the end of your throttle
body.
Tighten up the bolt behind the oil fill cap, and behind the alternator, with a 10 millimeter
socket and ratchet and an extension.
Reconnect the intake air temp sensor.
Drop the lower air filter housing back onto its mounting locations.
Be sure the air filter is fully seated into the housing.
Reinstall the intake tube onto the air box, and the PCV breather hose.
Lock the lid of the air box back onto its hinge.
Close it.
Lock it back down, and tighten the intake tube clamp with a flat blade screwdriver.
Bring the latch on the connector back down.
Reinstall the red safety tab.
Reinstall your fuel cap.
Reinstall your negative battery terminal.
Tighten it back with the 10 millimeter socket.
Now, since we released all the pressure and fuel from the fuel system and the fuel rail,
we'll have to prime our fuel system.
We do this by inserting the key, turning the key to the "on" position for three seconds,
turning it off, and repeating that process three times before starting.
Thanks for tuning in.
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