Waltons.co.uk presents - An Installation of 4 x 3 Waltons Home Office Executive Log Cabin.
Ensure that your base is firm and level.
For a log cabin we would advise either a solid concrete base or concrete slabbing laid to
the required dimensions of the building.
We recommend that a gap of 2ft is left between the edge of the base and any surrounding walls,
fences or other items.
This will ensure that there is sufficient clearance for building your log cabin and
to allow you to treat the building afterwards with a good quality wood preservative.
Additional tools will be required to fit the building, a rubber mallet, hammer, tape measure,
spirit level, saw and portable electrical drill are needed.
To start, lay your floor bearers out and evenly space them across your base.
Whilst we would not advise installing during adverse weather, if necessary, some PVC stripping
can be used to cover the bearers and prevent any moisture from reaching the floor boards.
Once the bearers are down, lay the initial base logs out across the bearers ensuring
that all angles are square. these are then to be secured to the bearers using screws
to prevent movement of the building.
Using a rubber mallet, gently but firmly tap the logs together at the joints, making sure
they are tightly secured within the tongue and groove across the entire length of the
log.
Once you have build up the logs sufficiently around the entirety of the building, to around
1/3 of the way up the windows, these can now be slotted into the areas provided, pressing
down firmly on the top of the kit to ensure there are no gaps around the bottom edge.
Continue to build up the wall logs to the height of the door framework. These framing
pieces are to be slotted to the bottom, sides and top of the frame and tapped securely into
place using the rubber mallet.
Once the wall logs have been successfully built up, the next stage is to install the
roof joists which are tapped in to the upright channels.
These run from one side of the building to the other.
Your log cabin should be beginning to take shape and you can now work on some of the
smaller areas of the construction process.
The veranda area in front of the door is created using the pressure treated boards provided.
If you use a spare board as a spacer between each slat, this will create a consistent and
even gap between the boards, without need for constant measurement.
The boards are then to be screwed to the bearers beneath, ensuring that they are flush with
the side of the log cabin.
The exterior support beam can now be installed on to the corner of the decking to support
the overhanging roof beams. You may need to cut this down to fit as the beam is not pre-cut
to allow for the roof beam.
It can then be secured using appropriate screws.
When starting the roof, place the initial board with the groove facing away from the
building, line it up to the end of the roof joists and secure in place, Then secure along
the roof support beams before placing any other boards.
Lock all boards in place, making sure the tongue of the board is securely withing the
groove of the next and flush at the edge before nailing each board to the roof beams at each
end.
When you reach the last board of the roof, you may find that you have a larger overhand
on the board than needed. this should be cut down to be level with the end of the roof
support beam. Don't worry, this is perfectly fine and any rough looking edges will be covered
by the roofing felt and fascia boards.
When installing the floor, secure the initial board against the cabin wall with the groove
facing outwards and nail in place. On each board thereafter, place the nails at an angle
to ensure the slats are together firmly, with the groove of the next board covering the
end of the nail.
As with the exterior roof support, you may need to measure and cut sections of the floor
to allow for the internal angles of the wall logs.
When you have finished with the floor you can now install the finishing strips which
go around the edge of the flooring. Measure the internal dimensions of the cabin and then
cut each length to size. these are then secured in around the edges of the floor to neaten
any rough edges and give a more aesthetically pleasing floor.
Simply line up the barrels of the door hinges with that of the door and slide down. Once
close, the hinges are covered by the framework for security.
The storm bracers give extra support to the building during periods of high winds. these
are fixed to the walls of the log cabin at the top and bottom of the bracer by drilling
through the wall log and securing the bolt on the other side of the wall.
With the roofing felt, roll this out in a large area and measure enough felt to cover
the roof across the length of the apex. These need to be long continuous strips to ensure
a secure covering.
For this building you will need 5 strips.
The felt should be laid leaving a 2 inch overhang along each edge of the building so that the
felt can be secured to the roof beams and further protected by the fascia boards.
Secure the felt along the edges, placing tacks approximately 2 inches apart along the entirety
of the roof.
When laying the next strip of felt, overlap the lower piece by approximately an inch to
ensure that water cannot collect on the roof and will run off evenly
Fold the roofing felt over the edge of the roof and secure firmly to the ends of the
roof support beams.
Use the fascia boards to lever the roof felt down. This will now secure the felt and get
your log cabin looking neat and tidy.
When attaching the fascia boards and finials, please make sure to pre-drill any holes to
prevent the wood from splitting.
For the final touches, ensure that the front felt of the log cabin is secured with even
tacks for a professional finish.
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