in this video we're going to wire in PVC singles the conduit system we've installed behind us
when i say we've installed it's actually rick that's installed that system now if you haven't
checked out that video be worth going and have a look at it because it uses a different method of
connecting to spouted boxes and couplers because we don't thread the conduit they use the Conlok
system from Metpro where you just insert the conduit into the box and tighten down the grub
screw in order to make those connections so it's super fast and easy however if you're more of
a traditionalist and you like to thread bend and set conduit me and the conduit king Jake
Hardcastle have made a full playlist on that type of conduit and i'll also leave that in the link in
the description so you can check that out i just need to get Rick finished off so we can start
pulling these PVC singles in and see if he's got any top tips oh cheers is that funny it certainly
is Rick it's your nylon draw through tape i've got it out of the van and there's your first top tip
i've installed it when i'm not using it inside a piece of flexible conduit stops it unraveling
in the back of the van putting itself in eight different knots that any Scout would be proud of
and that's for you Rick cheers i've got a question for you guys we all like to put nine conductors
through here oh that is a good question while you were installing this Conlok system from Metpro
which is incredibly easy and you haven't checked out that video i still recommend you go and do so
i was doing all the difficult design so i had to look at my conduit system and pick the worst piece
of conduit when i say the worst piece of conduit the longest piece and or incorporating bends and
i went through that process and you're right this piece here which is two meters in length
has a double set in it which is made up of two 45s which are classed as one bent and
then here we have a second bend so that piece is two meters in length and has two bends in it
i had to determine whether it could fit those six two point five millimetre squared and those three
1.5 millimetre squared PVC singles in it and to do so i had to delve into the on-site i guide suppose
you better show us the calculation then would you um go on then rick has a really good point can i
put those nine single insulated cables into the 20 mil conduit that we've installed in order to do so
i had to do some design elements i'm going to use the on-site guide for that you notice the cover on
this one is blue it will change over time so make sure you look in the latest version of the On-Site
Guide it's usually the color front that tells you whether you're on the latest edition we're going
to use appendix e to carry out this calculation i've wrote it down here for Appendix E let's find
the pages within the on-site guide and here we have Appendix E and it talks about cable capacity
of conduits and trunking and we're looking at the conduit element within this Appendix
and there are some tables that will help us carry out the calculation the first set of tables
table E1 and E2 are talking about conduits in straight short runs okay and ours is and ours is
incorporating two bends so we won't be using these two we'll be using the ones over here
on table E3 and on the next page we've got table E4 to help us carry out this calculation we see
here and i've highlighted it long straight runs over three meters or any length incorporating
bends and what we first of all look at is the factor to be applied for the actual conductors
so each conductor has a cable factor starting from one mil through to 25 millimetre squared
and we've got a combination of 1.5 and 2.5 conductors going into our conduit which gives us
a corresponding factor for 1.5 of 22 and 30 for our 2.5 millimetre squared cables they could be
solid or stranded and i know we said earlier on in the presentation that we use stranded cables
for greater flexibility but it does suggest that you could use either a solid class 1 conductor
or a class 2 stranded conductor within our conduit system we've used this class two one so we've got
our stranded copper conductor so the table allows for both to be chosen we're gonna take the factor
22 and the factor 30 but that's for one conductor only so we've got to work out
how many of each of the conductors we've got in order to perform a total cable factor calculation
and then we can use the table on the next page but let's do that first part of the calculation
so we said that 1.5 millimetre squared cable has a factor of 22 and we said that 2.5 millimetre
squared cable has a factor of 30 but we need to know how many of each of these conductors we've
got have we only got one 1.5 and only got one 2.5 and that would be okay however we haven't
we've got three one fives so we get a total factor for that of three times 22 which is 66
and then we need to multiply the factor 30 for our 2.5 against the number of conductors we have
in that and we have a total number of conductors of six for that one and then we do obviously three
or thirty times six or three times six and then add the zeros on we get a 180 so that's
our total factor for that so we had the individual conductor uh factor for 2.5 of 30 and 1.5 of 22.
we multiplied it by the number of conductors we had three 1.5 millimetre squared cables
and we had six 2.5 millimetre squared cables and we got these two numbers we need the total cable
factor so we need to add these together and when we add them together we get 246
as our total factor for the cables so we now need to use the next table which is table E4
in order to work out the size of our conduit so if we bring back in the on-site guide
and we turn over the page and rotate it round we've got a table now table E4 conduit factor
for runs incorporating bends and long straight runs so we know from previous that our conduit is
two meters in length and it incorporates two bends we're classing that double set as one bend and
then we have a 90 degree bend making a total of two this column here the length of the run we said
was two meters and then we need to look across the top table for the number of bends so we're saying
we've got two bends we've installed 20 mil conduit so i've already done that part of it so hopefully
the design has been done correctly we're looking for the factor for the conduit to be equal to
or less than that for the actual cables so if we come across from two two meters in length across
to 20 mil because that's the conduit i selected we're trying to confirm whether i got it right
the factor can be as high as 256 so in other words the cable factor needs to be equal to or less than
that in order to install 20 mil conduit we had a cable factor very close to it of 246 which is less
than the maximum factor when we have a two meter run incorporating two bends and we're going to use
a 20 mil conduit we've actually selected possibly right at its limit but the right size conduit in
order to install those nine conductors according to the On-Site Guide so we had a factor of 256
for our conduit and our conduit we said was if we look down here was two meters in length
incorporating two bends so we had a conduit factor of 256 which is greater than the factor we had for
the cables of 246 therefore the 20mm conduit is the right size conduit that we've installed
before we get carried away rick and install the cables we know definitely can go in there from
the calculation i've just done talk me through the process of which you've just done to attach those
cables to the eyelet of the nylon draw through tape yeah i've taken the three conductors first
three conductors and staggered them out evenly so that i can apply a tape around them making sure
that the tape is tight so as it's not to snag on its way through also top tip make a little tab on
the tape at the end so when you get to the end of the line you can easily just unravel it and
take that off with the remaining conductors i just repeat the same again also staggering that
down further down the the length for each set of conductors okay and as i'm looking at it now
seems a little bit sticky okay that isn't sticky though is it because that's the lubrication it's
the yellow 77 that we reviewed on the channel before and again if you want to see me using
some lube i'll leave a link for that in the eye above my head and it should make it an
easier process but you've also done a little tip there because i noticed there's no uh yellow 77
at this top end and it's a little bit further down what's your thinking behind that it's just to make
sure that um it's easy to remove the tip when it gets to the end somebody ends up slipping off oh
right okay makes real so yeah that's where the the majority of the cables are in that fatter section
and obviously it's easier then for these little tabs i really like those little tabs that's a
clever little trick shall we pull this in now then so we're going to pull it to this point here
we've got the cables on so a couple of different uh cable swirls uh in our shot so start that
pulling in process cables are coming through we're pulling them all in in a one-up so gently feeding
them in and they're coming out of this box here this is the point of which we're going to pull
the conductors out from we can see the yellow 77 on there making it a nice easy pull through
the trick is not to pull the cables in one at a time because the problem being is as a
new cable comes in you get some friction as they rub past each other again that's where
the yellow 77 comes in handy but i know in colleges often students wire these
one conductor at a time because they're learning how to wire them but we've pulled
all the conductors we needed in one go we're pulling it out here and not continuing it on
because we know that we're going to need to reduce the stress on those cables and we said
that that's the maximum distance which we can pull these in before we have to come out
a drawing in point before we go back in again so we're getting out the right length here
and once we're at the right length we'll continue on with this nylon draw through tape to the next
point and we'll start dropping off conductors that say the socket outlets and the lighting
points as and when we pull them in okay let's pull it into the next point then brick so if i
feed it i'm going to bypass this box we'll come back to this one you should find the
2.5's are coming through to you yep i just need to confirm that we've got the right length here
to drop some of these off at the socket outlet is there plenty there for you yeah okay let's see if
this tab section works and let's see if peeling the tab off you should be able to disconnect the
one fives is that right yep simply rotate that and then that means we can drop them off
we've just rediverted our draw through tape so we can pull down the socket so that one's gonna be
dropped off we've got the draw through tape now for the keynoter make sure we just moved it so
we've got it so we can pull straight down to the socket you want to just pull that set in for me
so that'll get those and then we can just take the one fives off to the correct position i do like
that tab it's really clever so again a little bit of pressure on one end we're nice and short now
so you can see that we're pulling and pushing at the same times and they go there through
and then we just leave a tiny little curl at the top in the box just a little curl for me again i'd
love your thoughts on that one whether you leave a little curl in there or you feel it gets in the
way we'll dress those in a minute so there'll be a little curl in there and obviously as we look down
here we've got enough for the socket and as we've only got a short run we've got the option now if
we wanted to have just pushing the 1.5 through the condom so i challenge rick now to put this
uh without the draw through tape in the one fives uh there's a good little tip that'll roll the end
over and then it should bump its way along the conduit often when people are training they leave
that end straight and it just get caught at the other end so we're hoping that that will appear
at that end as if by magic oh actually get away with that one it just popped off we've wired to
the furthest lighting point on this circuit so it just requires us now to pull some loops out of the
other two positions so inside here you've dressed your cables around now any tips there for me
yeah so when i'm dressing them in i'm just making sure that
no cables or conductors are hiding behind each of these fixing points and also i've got access
to the uh CPC connection point okay and we're gonna pull out a loop here is that right here we
are yeah so we've got a loop down the other end so we should see that come through as we pull up so
putting the loop out there we haven't got a light at the end point we've got one here
and then we've got one just here it's making our three points
and again just finding those 1.5 mil conductors to pull those out
and there we go so we should lose that loop in the corner and there'll be a box lid going
on there so that's our three lighting points wired and we've also wired our socket outlet
just a little bit of finishing off to do that's as far as gonna take the wiring system
in this video but i'm sure it's thrown up some great comments i'll leave them below
especially if you're training in the electrical industry i've got a question for you guys okay
we spoke about the conduit capacity okay what about grouping grouping yeah good question it's
a completely different design element so i'm sure somebody said that's okay Gary you can
get all nine cables into that conduit system but you haven't allowed for grouping that's a
completely separate calculation and one maybe that Joe Robinson will cover in a Q and A in the future
if you want to follow this series of videos on the next thing we're going to do is install
these robust bulkhead light fins and we're going to control them via a PIR i've got this in my
hand i think your next task Rick is to ravel that one up while everybody else leaves their comments
below and i'll try and get back to as many as i can so is this how it's going to work then guys
how do all the artwork can you come and take all the glory shoot in the video absolutely