Today, I will be doing the 9c strength test created by two Norwegian climbers and made
famous by Magnus Midtbo. The first test is the max weight you can hang on a 20-mm edge for 5 seconds.
The second test is your one rep max weighted pull-up. The third test is a core strength test
with L-sit and for some weird reason also with the front lever. The final test is the max time
you can hang on a pull-up bar. Your score points for each test are based on your performance,
and the sum of your points indicates what grade you should climb. Here’s a list of how other
people on YouTube performed. As you can see, the top performers are packed with pro climbers, crew
Eric Karlsson and crew Bouldering Bobat. Let’s see if I can get close to any of them. Alright,
so the first test is the max weighted hang on the 20 millimeter edge for 5 seconds. In the
past I've done 65 lbs for 10 seconds, so today I want to make sure that I can still do 65 lbs
for 5 seconds, and if I can do it comfortably I will try to push it to 70 lbs for 5 seconds
in order to get 6 points, which is the 50% body weight mark. Alright so 65 lbs for 5 seconds.
That's good. Alright, not too bad, not too bad, okay, we're gonna try 70.
One, two, three, four, five, nice.
Yeah! That's six points! There you go. Not too bad, not too bad,
okay. So I think I can potentially go further maybe to 75 or 80, but I don't want to injure
myself and I still have a few more tests to do, so let's move on to the next one. Alright,
so this test is the one rep max weighted pull-up. So for me personally I can do 70%
weighted pull-up any given day, and then I can do 70 to 80 percent weighed pull up at a good day,
and I only ever hit 80% above once in my life. So according to the point system,
if I hit 60% weighted pull up I'm gonna get seven points, but if I want to hit eight points,
I have to hit 80% weighted pull up, and for me, I don't think that's gonna happen today,
because I have to conserve energy to do all the remaining tests, so I'm gonna be strategic about
it, so I'm just gonna hit a little bit over 60% weighted pull up just to get that seven point
which is 85 lbs right here. Alright guys, this should be easy for me, so I'll give it a go.
Alright pretty easy. Alright yeah.
Alright seven points. That's it. Okay so now we'll move on to the next one. Alright,
so the third test is the core strength test, so I'm gonna try to do an L-sit for
20 seconds to get six points and I never tried a hanging L-sit before, so I'm really curious.
Great form. Great form? Yeah.
10 seconds
15 16 17 18 19 20. Nice. Alright, so that's six points, six points,
okay not too bad I am shaking a little bit at the end, but I'm really happy that I'm
able to get the full six points. Alright, so the last test is the max hang time on a
non-spinning bar. I'm not sure what the expectation is because for the spinning
bar I can do like 98 seconds. We got Geek Climber in the building. 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, oh!
My guess is three minutes. Three minutes? Three minutes yeah. That's actually pretty
long. Yeah that's long it'll hurt. It will hurt? It's gonna hurt yeah. So I'm really
curious to see if the bar isn't spinning, how long I can actually hang on to it. Let's do it.
30 seconds.
One minute.
1:30.
Two minutes
Solid grip. 2:30.
2:40.
2:50. Come on, 10 more seconds!
Come on hold it, hold it. Five four three two one, nice. Three minutes, oh my god.
Man the last minute is a huge struggle. What a huge struggle man.
So happy that I'm able to to crush through it, to be honest with you if Derek isn't
counting down for me, I would have dropped like at like 2:40ish something like that,
but when I heard Derek saying it's like 2:40 2:50 I'm like I gotta get it, yeah, I gotta get it,
so I'm happy that I'm able to get three minutes, that's amazing. Thank you, Derek. Yeah of course,
well done very impressive. So I just did the calculation I got 25 points in total and according
to the strength test I should be able to do 8b which is 5.13d, and that obviously is far from the
reality because my max is actually just 5.11b, but that was before I started YouTube though, so you
know maybe we can make another video in the future where I try to figure out my current highest sport
climbing grade, so that could be a fun video. Lastly, I want to show you a screw free doorway
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