Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Today's video is all about black tie.
I discuss tuxedos in-depth because it's a topic that's very dear to my heart and I see
a lot of men committing a lot of mistakes and it's a dress code dictated by lots of
rules so it's particularly important to understand what looks good and what is adequate and what
is not.
For most men, a black tie ensemble is the most formal thing they'll ever wear.
However, unlike in modern daywear, it's really dictated by rules that matter a lot.
At the end of the day, you don't want to look like a typical prom student in his rented
tuxedo because that's just embarrassing.
Instead, in this video, I broke everything down step by step so you can look at least
as good James Bond in his tuxedo.
First up, let's talk about the jacket.
It seems like a very simple black one however, it has very distinct features and a lot of
people get it wrong especially in Hollywood today.
The classic choice for a fabric is a black wool barathea which is a little more matte
and alternatively, you can opt for something navy or a very dark blue, maybe with a herringbone
weave, some people even go with fine twill weave or a plain weave.
Sometimes people add a little bit of mohair to the fabric which adds some sparkle which
is particularly well suited for evening wear.
If you see synthetic blends or any kind of nylon or polyester, stay clear of them because
you'll sweat and it's going to be uncomfortable and you won't look dapper.
The gold standard for tuxedo fabrics is a 100% wool.
Make sure it's not too thick and heavy otherwise, you'll easily overheat.
In terms of styling, the most classic option is what I'm wearing here right now.
It is a single button jacket which is like single breasted with just one button then
you have a peak lapel because that's more formal than a notch lapel.
Today, you oftentimes see men with a notched lapel tuxedo.
However, that's incorrect and should never be worn.
An alternative to it would be a shawl collar likewise with a single button or you can have
a double breasted jacket with a shawl collar.
Typically, it's a four buttoned jacket that's just buttoned on one and you can also have
it with peak lapels.
So keep in mind, peak lapels or shawl collars are the only acceptable options for black
tie.
Sometimes, you may see six buttons that's buttoned on one or six buttons that button
on two but that's the exception to the rule.
The most traditional jacket has no vents which is unusual today because most jackets have
either side vents or center vents.
The center vent comes from horseback riding, side vents are more comfortable when you stand
but for evening wear, you go for the ultimate look and the ventless is just the best because
it really hugs your body and looks awesome.
The most original pocket style is jetted pockets.
You have one on the right, one on the left, no ticket pocket.
Sometimes, you see men with flap pockets.
However, that's a detail from day wear and not suited to evening wear.
In terms of buttons, you want black matching buttons that are either covered in the same
fabric as your tuxedo or silk, or you go with a contrasting button sometimes with some decorations.
Stay clear of contrasting plastic buttons or horn buttons or buttons in a different
color that really stand out.
Now your lapels are not just regular lapels but they're faced with silk.
The most classic option is to go with satin but you can also have a rep silk or grosgrain
or a barathea which is a little more matte than the satin or any other kind.
Ideally, you also want a buttonhole in your lapel so you can have a boutonniere which
is particularly well-suited for evening wear.
Of course, you also want a chest pocket for your pocket square and if you wear a boutonniere,
go with a simple plain white linen pocket square otherwise, you can also opt for maybe
a solid color red, maybe purple, or maybe yellow pocket square in silk.
So let's talk about the details to avoid in a tuxedo jacket.
First of all, you do not want a flannel material, you want a worsted or wool with some mohair.
Second, avoid notched lapels because they are not suited for black tie.
For the same reason, avoid any two button or three button single breasted jackets because
that's for day wear.
Also, avoid side vents and center vents because that's historically incorrect for black tie
and for the same reason, don't go with flaps on your pockets.
Moreover, go for straight jacket pockets, not angled ones because it would be too sporty.
Now for the trouser and the pants, you want a matching material to the jacket in the same
color.
Now obviously, we're not talking about contrasting dinner jackets here and if you want to learn
more about those, please check out our in-depth guide and video here.
Because you want a matching pair, you should usually buy these items together.
Trying to find a matching jacket and a pair of pants that are from different sources is
almost impossible.
Yes, the color is black but the texture and the weave and the feel of the fabric is different
so it won't work together.
Therefore, never buy your pants and your tuxedo jacket separately or try to match them afterwards,
it's going to go wrong.
A special hallmark of the black tie trouser is a strip of fabric on the side which is
also called galon.
It can either be a white strip that's the same material as your lapel.
In this case, satin.
Or it can have a decorative woven braid.
It's important for black tie, you only have one galon.
For white tie, you have two.
Another important detail is that black tie pants are never worn with a belt because the
belt is not suited for evening wear and instead you either have suspenders or braces or side
adjusters.
To cover your waistband, you have two options.
One is to wear a waistcoat which I'm wearing here right now.
The other one is to wear a cummerbund which we offer here from Fort Belvedere.
Ideally, they are adjustable so no matter if you sit or dance, it's always comfortable
and you want a little loop in the back so you can hook it into the button of your pants
so it doesn't move around and you always look spot on.
You cummerbund should match your bow tie.
Traditionally, it also matches your lapels but those rules are a little more relaxed
and if you want to learn how to find the best black bow tie and cummerbund please check
out this guide here.
Now as a black tie connoisseur, you want your pants to have the perfect length because if
they're too long, it looks sloppy.
To get that, I personally prefer the bottom hem to be angled and it should never have
any cuffs or turn ups because that would be too informal and wrong.
To learn more about that, please check out our in-depth guide about pants breaks here.
When it comes to an evening vest, they're very different from your day vest.
They have a much deeper cut out so you see more of your shirt front and the studs on
your shirt front.
Most of the time, you see vests that are cut like day vest and it's a hallmark of someone
who doesn't know anything about black tie.
Every vest I've ever seen from a rental place is a daywear vest and it just looks like that
from a mile away.
So stay clear.
When you wear your cummerbund, make sure that the pleats face upwards not downwards otherwise,
it will be considered to be a faux pas and people would know that you don't know anything
about black tie.
For a good selection of different cummerbunds that match your bow ties, please take a look
at our shop here.
if you want even more details about black tie waistcoats, please check out our free
PDF guide that you can download on our website here.
Next up, let's take a look at the tuxedo shirt.
it looks like a regular white shirt but it is not.
It's made of a white fabric usually poplin or twill and it always has an insert.
It can either be in Marcella or a pique cotton insert, it can be a pleated front or sometimes
just a finely woven pattern.
Don't wear any regular white shirt, it's not going to cut it because you can actually see
the buttons which is not something you want in tuxedo shirts.
Either, you have decorative studs or you have a hidden fly.
Personally, I much prefer the studs because it's not something you wear otherwise.
That makes black tie even more distinct.
Some people who are a little more simplistic prefer a hidden fly, the choice is yours.
A hundred years ago, men would wear stiff, detachable collar shirts for evening wear
but the Prince of Wales and later, the Duke of Windsor decided he wanted something softer
and he was a big proponent of a soft turndown collar shirt with a french cuff that was doubled
and most importantly, not starched.
So today, if you wear a white tie, you have the old school shit with detachable collar
and for black tie, you wear a softer version.
Sometimes, for vintage lovers, a white stiff collar shirt paired with a white waistcoat
that is from white tie simply to kind of elevate their black tie outfit but that's something
quite advanced and you hardly ever see it, unless people really know what they do.
Now let's talk about the centerpiece of the ensemble, the black bow tie.It's called black
tie but that means black bow tie, you never wear a black neck tie, that would be incorrect.
The only acceptable color is black and you can go with different shapes and textures
and to learn more about which black bow tie works best for you, please check out our in-depth
guide, here.
Sometimes, you can see people who wear a red bow tie with a red cummerbund and a matching
red pocket square, these things are very gaudy and it's a hallmark of someone who is just
not into clothes but wants some attention and tries to get it that way.
Someone who really understands the rules of black tie will always frown upon that.
In terms of shoes, traditionally, men would wear patent leather shoes which is a shiny
black leather and the only two options were a capless Oxford shoe that was laced or opera
pumps also known as court shoes with a deep cut out and a bow in front.
Both of these are very elegant, however, if you rarely wear black tie and you want to
get more use out of your shoes, you can also get a capless black leather shoe and then
polish it so it has a beautiful shine and that way, you can wear it not just for black
tie but also with your business suit.
In any case, try to stay clear from any form of cap toe, any form of broguing because that
would make it less formal.
For the same reason, no wing tips.
Of course, the only acceptable color for black tie shoe is black.
Don't go with brown, red, or any other items and likewise, skip anything like a monk strap.
You really only can go with the Oxford that is capless and the court shoe.
Sometimes, you can also see men wearing velvet slippers, now that's something I'd personally
only wear in the comfort of my own home, maybe wearing a velvet dinner jacket but it's not
a traditional look that is appropriate for black tie in public.
You want to make sure that your black tie shoes have a thin leather sole and no rubber
because leather is more formal and has a nicer sound and rubber is just very uncomfortable
when you dance.
You also want to shy away from any boxy toed shoes with big seams instead, go for a chiseled
toe or a nice rounded toe, just a classic look.
To learn more about Oxfords, you can check out our Oxford guide on our website.
Of course, we put all these details together in our free PDF guide which you can get on
our website here.
In terms of black tie accessories, you want to have black silk socks that are over the
calf and I had a hard time finding exactly the ones I wanted that stay up so I designed
them myself and you can take a closer look at them here.
Colorful silk socks are one of those few things that can help you stand out with black tie,
just like your pocket square.
For that reason, you can opt for something in red, maybe purple, maybe green, or any
other color that you want.
However, I urge you to just stay with one color or two at the maximum, definitely avoid
crazy socks or any like really bold patterns such as neon pink or yellow.
For cufflinks, black tie items are usually black such as onyx or abalone, sometimes,
they would come as a matching set with your shirt style.
Personally, I also like to wear white mother of pearl studs because it just provides a
different look and it's something that comes from white tie and it's just a little bit
more formal.
Of course, you can also find other sets with precious and semi-precious stones and usually,
they're quite expensive.
If you want to splurge on that, go for it.
This is your time to shine.
Again, don't wear belts, but you can have a pair of suspenders that ensure that your
pants stay at the right height all night long no matter if you sit, dance, or do anything
else.
For boutonnieres, the most classic choice are carnations.
Right now, here I'm wearing a smaller one mid-size in dark purple.
Most classic would be white or red but you can also go with pink or white or any other
color for that matter that suits you.
To keep my flowers from wilting and to be able to wear them on a cruise ship, I designed
my silk flowers that look like that all day everyday, 365 days of the year and if you
want to check out any of those accessories, please head over to our website where we have
a good selection.
If you wear a boutonniere, make sure you wear the stem through the buttonhole of your lapel
and if it's not covered or if you don't have a buttonhole, don't wear one.
Pinning one on to your tuxedo just looks garish and like someone who really doesn't know what
he's doing.
Now, basically, these are all the elements of a classic black tie tuxedo outfit.
If it's very cold outside in the winter, you may want to add a white silk scarf or you
can have a white and black one.
When you toss the scarf around your shoulder, it looks very elegant and it keeps you warm
at the same time.
In combination, you can add an evening overcoat which is a black overcoat with one buttoning
point and peak lapels that are faced with silk and the entire thing is lined with silk,
however, most people have very little use for that and for that reason, evening overcoats
are hardly ever seen anymore.
Instead, you can go with a dark either black or navy blue double-breasted or single-breasted
overcoat, ideally one with peak lapels.
To top it off, you can wear a hat.
The perfect hat would be a homburg hat because it has the right degree of formality.
Definitely, avoid a top hat or an opera hat because they are too formal and they only
go with white tie.
Last but not the least, if you get cold fingers, consider a pair of white gloves but I would
always take them off when inside and only wear them with my overcoat or evening overcoat.
It definitely provides a very dapper look, screams elegance.
Now if you live in a warmer climate, if you go on a cruise or a destination wedding, black
tie rules are a little different.
For more details, please check out our free in-depth PDF guide on our website.