hi I'm Paul Brodie and this is my shop Mitch is behind the camera as usual thank you and
we have a segment today on Aramaki I know most of you have never heard about Aramaki but I'll
explain a little bit a little bit about that we're gonna make a swing arm I've got a swing arm off a
stock bike which has been cut the cross tube is off it if you want to know what an air Macky is
well look right here this is a 1970 350 Aramaki and right here it's the same swing arm so weird
we're using a swing arm off this style of a bike which is 50 years old this is this is
very hard for hard for me to make because it's waged there's been a large press with a lot of
tongues and I think they put an extra tube or something inside and then they squash it and
they bend it as well I can't do that so I like to use this piece and this has to be extended this
is inch and a half chromoly it's oh nine five you can see it's a nice thick wall and we're going to
machine this down we're going to add a tube on we're going to weld it round and then this here
is the cross tube we're gonna miter these two tubes put it on there use the surface table and
we're gonna build a swing arm so what I want to show you here the first thing we're gonna do is
go to the mill haven't bead blasted off the paint here I've filed this surface flat that was fairly
flat but when I start to file this you can see how it's a bit Hollow on each side so it's not
flat so what I did on the other one I put it on the mill and I took a little skim Cup with a
fly cutter so let's go to the mill now and I'll do the same to this one as I did with this one
so we'll take this out now and I'm gonna show you what comes next so I have to machine this down so
one thing I want to do is I want to see where the bend actually stops so if I look in the light it
looks to me right about this so I'll make a mark with my felt pen we're gonna go over to the lathe
I'm gonna hold this in the Chuck and I'm going to machine from here to here let's see I machine from
here to here and then I cut this off and then this - it's gonna slide over its going to be
a nice tight fit I'm going to change the compound I'm gonna put a slight angle on it so that we can
cut a little taper on the very end of the tube so probably three degrees something pretty small
we'll go back to the workbench I've got my micrometer I got a telescoping gauge we're
gonna figure out the ID what it is okay that's my size one point three one one five so we're going
to go back to the lathe now you can hold that in the Chuck this is going to swing around because
it's off-center obviously there's a bend and then we're going to machine a section about that long
I'm at 3 1 1 2 so I need to take off half a sow so I'm gonna sand that pick
up 1 1 5 okay that one's good now we just have to do the other one
we'll go after the belts and and now we'll put a nice nice easy shampoo on
there so it helps it to feed into the larger tube I've got some press lube
here this is what you use when you're on the hydraulic press sometimes and you've
got interference fit and you want it to go in smoothly so it's a lubricant you
go just a little bit inside so it should start to go on there that's a nice fit
that's exactly what I wanted so that is that size on size when when the OD of the smaller
tube is exactly the same as the ID of the larger tube that's a size on size fit so
we do the same thing on number two now this one so this one's a little bit looser just a
touch loose of it there you go still going on tight that's good I'm very happy with that so
next step is a little bit of TIG welding we'll go over to the welding table now
okay it's all welded up so the arms are the same length so I've got my my combination square and I
set it up right like that see I made a little little mark right there so when I put the the
second arm in there I've got a way to double check it oh look at that it's out about a quart almost a
quarter of an inch so it's a good thing we checked oh it just fits look at that nice so I shouldn't
have to put too much force on it with something this big and that is too much so it's gonna come
back just a little bit just a touch there you go that's good for me I've got an axle I've got
a dummy axle this is the same size as the hub we'll put the axle aide I always want to have
the axle all the way forward that's the dummy axle this is the other side at the Machine up
a spacer just so I can make this process work this rectangle here is the cross tube and I've got the
tube cut to size that's my that's my rear tire so I've got clearance on either side just looking at
to see that it's equal looks pretty good there I'm gonna make them make a line right down here there
we go it looks like 11 degrees so in class if I'm doing a class I do M 11 M stands for mightor this
is the easiest way to market put a combination set right up to the corner like that press down
take your lock so what this does is I can I can take out this and I can put the next one in and
I have to come up against the stop I can't have a space there I need to go back against the stop put
in the extra V block and then I make it tight so that's going to work for both sides edging up it's
a two-handed jog so I as I as I pull the whole saw down I'm edging up to the line a little bit more
that's good I'm going to lock the table here lock the x-axis and and we'll take a cut
I'm on the second side now we're going to my to that and because I have a stop
here that means I don't have to put any felt pen mark I don't have to edge the
whole sore up to it or anything I just I put it in I clamp it tight I make my cut
off to the belt sander next
check again
no that's pretty good so I'm going to the lathe now I'll take I'll take the coating off of this
and then we'll set it up on the surface table and we'll do some tacking here is the surface
table and this is is the cross tube for the swingarm we're going to use the head tube
holder again that's going to hold the cross tube so we'll take off the clamp and the cone cross
tube the Kohen we've got the ramping system here we talked about that last video that is on lock
it pull it that will not move now so I've got this here that can't go forward so what I need
to look for here is equal spacing on both sides and I'm happy with that so I need to hook up the
ground clamp now to the surface table and then we'll do some tacking and then I can weld it
all right it's tack welded
okay well it up now we have to miter the cross tube it's a curved tube that fits around the
back tire here's the cross tube it's chromoly it's a little a little less wall thickness it's all six
five so that could go something like like that that's a hacksaw line right there and then we're
gonna mighta right there so can you see how it's it's slanting down a little bit so we're gonna
loosen the vise see how we give it a little tap how's that looking that looks pretty good
so this side has a bit off it we can go from here we can go into the line
and see if that's level and it's not quite so give it a little tap that's pretty level
one curve - let's go see how it fits
I like that well that's pretty good look at that it's too wide okay so it's still a
little bit wide but I still have to weld in the plate and I seem to remember last time
that when I weld it in the plate even though I had had the BRIT I call this a bridge tube
even though the bridge too was in there it still pulled in so this is good maybe I'm
going to put a little bit of tension on this anyway so my next thing to do is to take a
piece of cardboard and to cut out a template for the sheet metal that goes in there I've
got some sixteenth inch sheet metal and that's going to be that's going to make this swing um
very strong draw a line on either side so I want to go a little less than half way
I'm just guessing here where I want to be
that fits pretty good
so what I have to do now is to have two belts and off this off the black that's
an oxide because this is hot rolled sheet steel it's got the got the black on it and
then once I do that weld it up check the alignment we're good I got a belt sander
here I got this from Tom Ritchie way I went down to see him in 1984 looked around his
shop and this was lying on the floor and I said what's that he said that's my old belt
sander I said is it for sale so I got it for thirty bucks still use it all the time
thanks Tom so I'm just gonna hope this is hard to hold by hand so I'll just
use a c-clamp here and all I'm doing is taking off just making the real edge shiny
okay good so I got a piece of metal that's just to hold it down while I put a little
tack on each corner okay you're just some welding now see what happens
so one thing when I'm TIG welding sometimes I see how far I have to
go and I just make sure that I know that I can go the whole way
okay the brace is welded in oh look at that it's just a little bit I I can pull that in that's
not bad I'd rather have it a little bit wider than a little bit narrower so next step is to
see on the surface table how we did it's got a little bit there we could we can pull that down
so almost touching the table they're almost just a touch but I can fix that
up thank you very much for watching our video hope to see you again stay safe