hello welcome to Enots engineering i'm Alan
today i'm in the garage i'm not in the workshop
and i'm fitting a pair of discs and pads to the front of a volkswagen up
so let's go to the garage and see how we do it
i looked on youtube to see how to do
this i think there are two videos on how to do it
On the Volkswagen up so i thought i'd show you how i do it
i haven't got any fancy four posts lifts and all the equipment that the garages have
just basic tools how i do it in the workshop
and the first thing we need to do
is get the wheel off the ground so we can take the wheel off
and get at the brake calliper these wheel trims they just pull off
before i jack this up i'm going to slacken the wheel nuts off
because once you jack it up you've got no way of stopping the wheel turning
so it's easier to slacken them off now rather than have to lower the jacks again
as usual when you have tires fitted they tighten these up with an air gun
so what i'm doing is putting an extension bar
onto my ratchet they're far too tight
if you broke down on the country lane in the middle of the night
you'd never be able to change your spare without some help
okay i've jack the car up turn the wheel so that the calipers facing out
i have a yellow jack that's holding the front part
this red one is just a support just in
case the yellow one leaks or goes down
i'm not getting under the car if i was getting under the car i'd have
axle stands and remove the jacks all together
never trust the jack the hydraulic jack to hold your car up if it springs a leak
it'll let the car down and if you're underneath it could crush you
so always use axle stands if this goes down
the other one will stop it if that doesn't stop it
the break disc could touch the floor
so the first job
is to take the caliper off at the back here
you can see
looks like a rubber tube on the end of the tube is a plastic cap
and inside that is a seven millimeter hexagon
so you can remove the two hexagon screws these are also sliders
so the whole calliper should slide up and down on the frame
you can see here take a screwdriver just tap the cap off
that's the cap plastic cap and there's one on the top and the one on the bottom
take that one off as well
now take a seven millimeter hexagon wrench
it should go inside the hole
locating the hexagon
the same on the bottom one
i can get this one out i'll show you what it looks like
it's hexagon in the end and that's the slider where the caliper
slides in and out and as you can see on that one it's all
gunged up with black
so i'll put that in the lathe and just
use some memory cloth to polish it up here's the bottom one
you can see that's all black as well that's gone rusty on the end so that's
probably why the calipers are sticking to get the caliper off you need
to pull the top part of the caliper out so you can get this lug underneath
from in front of that bar to the top and then you should be able to pull the
caliper off
now hold the caliper on the top there don't let the caliper
dangle down on the pipe because you could damage the pipe
once more this pad is nearly down to the steel
the other pad looks okay
this pad should just come out
it's just a spring-loaded clip that goes into the piston
you can see the piston there
virtually fully extended now before you can fit new pads
you need to push this piston back because you'll have no room
to get new pads and the disc in the slot
so to push the piston back you need a tool
there we go line it up with the piston square
as you turn the handle the thread pushes that in
and you can see the piston going back into the housing
the one thing i would suggest is you check your reservoir level
make sure that it's not all coming out the reservoir all over your
bulkhead i've already done that with the other side
i'll let that go at that i may need to do it again when i put the pads in
because this will probably push forward slightly
so what i'm going to do is use the cable tie and tie this up on the spring out of the way
the cable ties taking the weight and not the brake hose
here's the pad pad fits in there
the pad should move in and out on these two sliders
which are all rusty so i'm going to file these up
and give them some grease copper grease
remove the disc clean it all down with the new disk on
and then we're ready to put the pads in
so to take the disc off what we have to do to remove this star headed
counter sunk screw
i'll just put some wd-40
around the center
let that soak in just tap it from the back
the disc will come off what we need to do next
is remove the rust from this face before we fit the new disk
okay i've just taken the rust off the face i'm not bothered about the
diameters here just this face because that's where the
disc will mount now i'll tidy up these here
i'm just taking off the surface rust because this is where the
pads locate they run on the top of this this rail and the the front and the
front and the underneath and the top rail
so just make sure there's no lumps on there
rust
now ready for the disc to be fitted
right here's the new brake disc
now before i fit the brake disc i'm just going to
spray it with some brake and clutch cleaning fluid
and then wipe the surface
to take off the protective layer of oil or grease or whatever it is on the surface
turn it over you can see on here there's like a
greasy film
so that's nice and clean this is the hole you use
to screw the disc to the flange and then
the wheel bolts go through these four holes
i've just put some copper grease
along the areas where the brake pads will run
and a small amount in the two sliding holes
okay just a quick safety thing
don't wear these type of gloves if you're working on the lathe
because they stretch they get caught on things
and they'll pull your hand into the lathe
i've just polishing up the guide rods for the caliper
that's how they look beforehand this is black
i think it's grease it's just gone hard and stuck on
i've just run some emery cloth across just to take the black
marks off still a bit on that one
i don't want to remove any steel from the pin
i just want to remove the black dirt and marks
this is probably what's stopping the caliper from centralizing
sliding in and out
so i've got rid of all the black stuck on grease
i'll put some copper grease on that
and then assemble them back into the caliper
the brake pad with piston side fits into the piston
it's got a spring clip and the other one fits into the caliper
now if you push your piston back far enough
you should be able to slide this on the disc
get the bottom part here on the inside of the slider the top
of the pads on the outside and make sure it's lined up
then you should be able to tighten up the two sliding bolts
to fit the caliper just tighten the two sliding bolts to
bolt the calliper back onto the hub it's ready now for the
wheel to be replaced check it just moves freely
now before you finally put the wheel on just check that the brake hose
is not kinked it's not leaking all looks okay the nuts are tightened and
the plastic caps have been fitted here are the two pads off the other side
you can see from that one is down to the steel
on the pad and the other one has still got
plenty of brake pad on there remaining
the edge of the steel here was rubbing on the disc
i wasn't going to replace the discs until i saw that
this one was worn down about two millimeters on the one side
and about one millimeter on the other but while it was jacked up just put the
wheel nuts on and tighten them up with the wrench now
on the floor the jacks have been removed i can tighten this up
properly
replace the wheel trim
then the next thing i'll do is pump the pedal
a few times till i get a solid brake pedal
that's because pushing the piston back i've pushed all the fluid back into the
reservoir now once i pump the pedal it will pump the fluid back through to
the piston until the pads have clamped up onto the disc and then
it's ready for a road test
replace the wheel trim and now it's time
for the test drive i'll let the wife do that
oh well that's it for today thanks for watching i hope you enjoyed it
hope it was interesting i'll see you next time
on enots engineering