How do I look?
I would say I’m like the perfect Roman legionar!
Lukasus Stegus Maximus!
And I think you already know what the topic will be on this trip.
Exactly, I’m following the footsteps of the Romans through Germany.
And you get to come along!
My journey through the ancient world begins in Cologne on the River Rhine,
once known as Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium.
In those days, the city was made up of tightly packed houses,
monumental buildings and cobble-stone streets – a bit like it is now.
Today, the Cologne Cathedral towers above the metropolis as its principal landmark.
Remains from the Roman era have been preserved in many places.
Right next to the cathedral is a part of the old city gate.
For over four centuries, Cologne played a vital part on the frontier of the Roman Empire,
the ’Limes’.
Major empire state roads converged here from the south, west and north.
They carried goods, people and news from the whole world
to the capital of the Province of Germania Inferior.
And today, roads still run where they were first laid out in ancient Cologne.
2000 years ago this was one of the main axis of Roman Cologne,
well and today it's one of the most important shopping streets in the city — Schildergasse
Central Cologne is also the site of the Romano-Germanic Museum.
It exhibits the archeological heritage of the city and its environs
with an emphasis on the Roman era.
Staff member Kathrin Jaschke shows me around.
What role did Cologne play?
Cologne was in fact the capital of the province Germania Inferior,
so, it was the administrative center.
The governor, who administered the entire province, resided here,
which is why Cologne was so important.
And this is where the very earliest Romans came to live on the Rhine.
People came from all over the Roman Empire to live in this vibrant city on the Rhine
— for example, this man from Spain.
Why was it so important to him to have on the tombstone that he is or was a citizen of Cologne?
Apparently, he felt very much at ease here.
And Cologne was in fact an attractive city in Roman times.
It had a flourishing economy; commerce was burgeoning; there were craftsmen;
you could make really good money here.
From Cologne, I follow the Rhine upriver to the south.
It served as a natural frontier between the Roman Empire and the Germanic tribes
and was fortified with watchtowers and forts.
Rheinbrohl, about 65 kilometers south of Cologne, is the point
where the Limes branches off from the Rhine.
On this stretch, earthworks and palisade fences demarcated the edge of the Roman Empire.
Today, Germany’s Limes Road winds about 700 kilometers roughly southwest to Regensburg
on the Danube River.
Brown signs like this point the way.
And an app with either an interactive map or a brochure is helpful for quickly locating
the archeological digs, reconstructions and museums, such as the Limes Tower in Hillscheid.
Salve!
Salve, Hello, I’m Lukas Stege!
Manfred Knobloch — or, for you today, Claudius Antonius.
Claudius Antonius, wonderful.
The Limes Cicerones, as they’re called, give tours at the various Limes sites.
Manfred Knobloch has been showing visitors around in Hillscheid for over ten years now.
What was the exact function of this tower?
From the towers, they kept a watch on the Limes — the border between the Roman Empire and Germania.
They always had the towers’ surroundings in view.
If someone approached with hostile intent, they could give a signal from the tower.
They could’ve done it with a mirror if the sun was out.
Polished brass would’ve done the job.
That’s why this tuba’s hanging here.
If it was foggy, they could’ve given the signal with this horn and, at night, with a torch — with fire.
Can I try?
Try it!
It Works.
Harder! Harder!
I couldn’t do it.
But did Claudius Antonius manage?
Now we have it!
Sounds a bit like an elephant.
And Claudius Antonius had another surprise in store for me:
This is the moretum.
It’s a cheese paste made from sheep’s cheese mixed with herbs.
I will try it.
Load up properly ...
Delicious, Claudius, it’s super delicious!
A sight to see on the Limes is the reconstructed Roman Saalburg fort near Frankfurt.
It’s my next stop.
Archeologist Anna Langgartner shows me around the premises.
In ancient times, 600 men were stationed here as a border patrol.
They lived in these barracks.
The company quarters are secured with a Roman lock, known as a lock and sliding bolt.
And now, you see if you can get it open.
Don't lose your patience ... lock-and-sliding-bolt.
I can’t do it. I give up.
You hold it like this, slide it first in here,
then you turn it, so the bit points in this direction.
Then you lift it up, and you pull it over, jiggle it a little, because the lock catches a little …
and then it’s open…
Alright, in you go.
Eight men would live squeezed into two little rooms like this.
Now, we’re entering the basilica, the great hall.
That’s a part of the Principia, the staff building in the center of the fort.
It’s a large open hall where the entire company could assemble
— for celebrations, cultural events or just for drills on wet, rainy days.
On the subject of drills, it’s about time I had a look at the arms
and learned some Roman combat techniques.
First: spear-throwing.
Then archery.
Does that look legionary-like?
Don’t hold it too long — you’ll get cramps.
OK.
Yeah, uh bullseye!
And what would a legionary’s training be without sword-fighting?
In fact, they would train using wicker shields instead of the proper ones and wooden swords.
They’re heavier than the real ones, so they made for wonderful training,
because, of course, you’d build up more muscles, strength and endurance,
and you’d last longer in battle.
And you don't get hurt.
Exactly!
Like a gazelle he sneaks up on...
Oh dammit, dammit, yes!
Here at the Saalburg my search for traces is over.
And I would say, mission accomplished!
I’ve learned a lot and I hope you did too.
So, see you next time.
And as the Romans say “Valete!”
Goodbye!