(intense intro sounds)
- Welcome back to another episode
of the GCN Tech
where I aim to help and solve and
fix your bike related problems.
So if you've got one,
make sure you leave it for me down there
in the comments section below,
or alternatively, on all forms of social media
using the hashtag #AskGCNTech.
As ever, let's crack on with the first one this week.
And it comes in from Christian Avila.
Who says Hi, Jon,
I'm riding a Scott Cr1 30 with a Shimana octalink crankset.
I'm looking into install a new 105 5800 crank.
What bb would I need to get?
Thanks, and love the show!
Right, nice and simple one here Christian.
You can put any hollow tech two-bottomed bracket in there,
but the one that's going to match up perfectly
in terms of quality,
and also an equal sort of price bracket too
is the bb R60,
I think it's called that,
yeah, it is the bb R60 still,
and that's going to fit perfectly into that Scott frame.
Just make sure you get one with an English thread
or a BSA thread so it's going to match up
with those internal threads.
Go ahead, and fit one.
Next up is Jerico Manoguid,
I hope I got that one right,
who says new bike here from the Philippines,
just wanna know what is the best way to mix
Shimano groupsets like the 105r7000
Ultegra r8000
and Dura Ace r91000
including the DI2s.
Planning to upgrade by August.
Right then Jerico, well, all eleven speed Shimano
components are interchangeable on the road with one another,
so that's all okay,
as are DI2 components.
The only ones you need to be worried about are the older
10-speed Ultegra range,
because they use a different type of cabling system,
or rather, they don't actually talk to one another
like the 11-speed components do.
The different cabling systems I was speaking about
is actually with the original 10-speed Dure HDI2.
But you'll be all okay there, and after 105,
that isn't available in electronic version,
you can use a 105 11-speed chainset with Shimana,
Ultegra, 11-speed Dura Ace.
It's going to be absolutely fine.
They all work in harmony.
Right, next up, we got Mr. Traffic Safety.
I do like that you're safety -
safety first, always.
Right, so Mr. Traffic Safety says
I'm looking to upgrade my cyclocross wheels.
What will make more of a difference:
outdated carbon wheels with a narrow rim profile
or a set of newly designed aluminum ones
with a wider profile?
I'm a heavier rider at 90 kilos,
and I would like to put 33-40 millimeter tires on the bike.
Right, well, personally I would go for the wider ones
because it's gonna to be easier for you
to put cyclocross tires on for a start.
Sometimes they can be a little bit of a struggle.
Plus, the alloy wheels are actually going give you,
well, better braking in all weather conditions.
Because sometimes carbon ones, particularly if you're
using rim brakes, can give sort of sub-optimal
braking if you'd like.
You have to really anticipate your braking quite a bit more,
so I would probably err on the safe side there.
And also, you don't want to go buy
an outdated kit,
unless of course, you're building for retro bikes.
Okay, next up, we have Jordy Veloy
who says hey Jon, thanks for solving all of our
technical bike problems on this show.
I'm looking to buy a new handlebar,
lighter and more arrow,
however, my bike is equipped with a DI2 junction box
in the end of the handlebar.
Do I need to buy a specific bar for the DI2 ones,
or does it fit into most handlebars?
Also, on the other side, my bike uses disc brakes,
do I need to do anything specific
when changing the cables and such? Cheers.
Right, Jordy,
I would recommend that you do actually
buy a pair of handlebars purposefully drilled
for that DI2 cable,
because like you say, you've got the junction box
that goes in the end of the handlebar,
those cables have to pop out somewhere.
Yet, I know, I know, you could well drill your own
hole in there and everything would be fine,
but are you willing to the risk?
Because when we go down there on the end of the handlebars,
it tends to be during well, quite hard and intense effort,
so you don't want to risk anything coming away.
So I'd definitely go for the purpose build
or the factory-fitted or factory-drilled handlebar.
As you also mentioned there about your disc brake hoses
and everything,
no, it's not too difficult.
Nothing really to watch out for.
It's very likely if you are going to be taking them apart
and rerouting them,
you may well need to rebarb them,
because it's quite likely you're going
to need some new hoses depending on the internal routing
you're going to have and everything like that.
It's not anything which is too stressful
or anything, just do take your time with it,
because when you're fiddling around with the mineral oil
and everything like that,
it can be quite messy stuff.
And you don't want it to go everywhere,
so just take your time and follow the instructions
that the manufacturer provides for you.
Next up is Antown, who says
my rear derailleur moves inward when clamping
the quick release on the frame.
Is that common?
Right. This is pretty common,
and in fact, it's more commmon on bikes which have
two tiny little fasteners for that derailleur hanger
as opposed to an older style frame that tends
to use one with chain-ring style bolt or a through-axle,
which doesn't affect it in as much detail.
So, the reason being,
when you tighten up that quick release,
it provides load of pressure obviously on both sides
of the dropout,
and if those tiny little grub screws almost,
they're tiny, they're like M3 or M3.5 thread,
if they're not done up tight enough,
then the rear derailleur can often move
or rather the derailleur hanger does.
It's purely because of the pressure
you were applying onto it.
This is particularly common with cast aluminum derailleur
hanger as opposed to a CNC machined one,
which tends to be a little bit stiffer,
little bit bulkier, and certainly worthy of upgrading.
But this brings me onto my next point,
and that is that when you are actually tightening up
your derailleurs, after that's done,
then is the time to index your gears.
If you index them and the wheel is quite snug in there,
but it's not really tight how you should have it,
or obviously not super tight,
but tight enough that it does actually leave
an indentation on your palm when you do up that skewer.
Then ultimately, your gearing indexing
is going to be all out of sync,
and you're not going to be able to get into your
highest gears, like the 12 or 11 sprocket,
whatever you've got down there.
So certainly always index your gears after you've
tightened that rear wheel.
But do check that those screws are snugly tightened up.
Not too tight, because they're very small heads on them,
and it's easy to round off.
Maybe apply a little of Lock Tight on there,
a medium-strength certainly,
something like the Blue Car.
Right, now we've got J En.
Could be Jen, don't know.
Hi Jon, I'm getting a pinging sound
when my real wheel is under torque,
usually when grinding gears at low cadence.
Do you know what that might be?
Thanks a lot, Jim.
Ah, so it's obviously Jim N.
Okay, right,
sometimes it could be the spokes
actually rubbing or flexing on one another.
And like you say, when you're putting a lot of torque
through the low cadence,
you tend to be putting loads of power through there,
it's normally when you're going up a hill.
Alternatively, maybe it could be the actual inside
of your derailleur,
so the sort of inside of the cage itself,
just pinging slightly onto the spokes.
So it's just catching on every one or other because
the spokes aren't always coming at exactly
the same angle when you look at them,
depending on if they're bladed or not.
So I'd have a look at that.
If it is that, if it's dangerously close when you're
just actually behind the bike,
got the bike in a work stand,
pedaling it around,
just give that L-screw a very slight turn clockwise
just to try and bring in that derailleur a little bit.
Hopefully, it's one of those and you can well,
get to grinding up those hills,
but in, well, relative silence.
Next up is Shane Burgel
who says I'm getting a rhythmic click sound as I pedal.
It goes away when I free wheel.
Do I need a new bottom bracket?
It's only a year old, but maybe I installed it badly.
Right, Shane, a few things to check here
and I've just got to say,
I hate a tick or a creak on a bike.
So, check the pedals are nice and tight
check the chain rings are too.
Also make sure that skewer is tight too.
And give it a dab of grease too,
and also around the actual dropouts
where the axle sits in there.
Those are the - well, like I say, the normal victims
or normal causes of that sound.
Failing that, then yeah, it could well be a bottom bracket.
Perhaps it needs just torquing up slightly,
or alternatively some grease or anti-C,
something like that,
but we have actually got a whole video dedicated
to click and creaks and all those irritating sounds,
so if you want to find a link to that,
just click up there, top right hand corner
and you'll see a link to that video.
Right, penultimate question this week
comes in from Marshall Emmett who says
I'm building an aluminum Cinelli Vigorelli frameset
and I'm planning on getting a SRAM Omnium crankset.
Will the included GXP bottom bracket work with my frame?
Marshall, nice frames.
Yeah, a threaded GXP bottom bracket will work
absolutely fine with that frame.
It has a British thread on those frames.
Years and years ago, Cinelli frames of course would come
with an Italian thread,
but not many bikes do these days.
So yeah, it's going to work absolutely fine.
Send us in a picture for the bike vault actually
when you finish that bike,
'cause I do like a Cinelli Vigorelli.
Right, final question this week
comes in from Patrick Kelly.
I have an FSA square tapered crankset on my bike.
Can I replace it with a Hollowtech 2 one?
Another bottom bracket question.
And good news, Patrick,
my friend, yes you can.
All you need to do is put a new Hollowtech 2
bottom bracket on there,
obviously it has no axle built in
because the axle will come on that crankset.
You're going to save yourself a lot of weight
by doing that as well,
so good luck with that one,
and why not weigh it before and after,
and let me know just how much you saved.
Right, I hope I've been able to help answer
and solve your bike-related problem.
If you've got one, remember leave it for me down there
in the comments selection below,
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