Marc - On today's show, we've got something
really special for you.
A charity project for Woodworkers Fighting Cancer.
We're going to make this easy to build toy chest.
(lively music)
As you can see, this is not your average toy chest.
We've got quite a bit going on here,
and this was clearly made for a kid,
but it does have finger-saving technology.
I think that might be trademarked and
we might now owe somebody money.
Let me show you some of the other features.
When the lid comes down, the decorative curves
help prevent little pinched fingers.
Hinge supports keep the lid open,
and slow its descent.
A white board surface serves as the front and back panels.
The sides feature book storage,
and the lid doubles as a play surface for
LEGOs, trains, or whatever.
The whole thing is made from premilled poplar and
birch plywood, and I gave mine a nice milk paint finish.
So that's the project.
Here's more about the charity.
Woodworkers Fighting Cancer is a charity event
that Nicole and I started back in 2010.
Since then we've raised nearly 40,000 dollars
for various cancer charities.
This year, the money goes to the Cancer Research Institute.
So how does it work?
You download the plan for this project, you build it,
and you send me a picture of the finished piece by
the end of November, and I'm going to donate five dollars
per finished piece that I receive.
Now, that's one per person.
Now again this year, we're going to partner with Steve
over at Mere Mortals.
He's going to make a version that might be slightly
different but, in the same vein, the bottom line is
that you need to build either his version
or my version to qualify for this.
Make sure you send the pictures to me so I can
tally everything up because we have corporate sponsors.
This is the coolest part.
I'm donating five bucks and there's a bunch of companies
who are matching my donation and they are really
going above and beyond this year.
We even have some charity auctions sponsored by Powermatic.
So here's some of those great companies who are helping
us out with the fight against cancer.
Festool.
Making woodworking faster, easier, and smarter.
Bell Forest Products.
My personal favorite lumber source.
Brusso.
American made precision hardware.
Eagle America.
The world's router bit source.
Powermatic.
The gold standard since 1921.
I'm going to start by breaking down the plywood.
I find the most back friendly way to do this
is on the floor.
A few foam insulation boards keep the plywood
a safe distance from the concrete.
I'll do the cutting with a shop made track
and a circular saw.
The track is made from particle board shelf stock
and a thin strip of MDF.
The saw blade just kisses the edge of the guide,
making it super easy to line up with my marks.
So I measure for the first cut and extend the line
with a large framing square.
The guide simply goes right up to the line
and the cut is made.
At this point, it's a good idea to cut these parts
oversize since we'll eventually want to
cut off all of those factory edges.
The real key to cutting down plywood accurately is
to remember which edges are freshly cut and then use
those edges as reference for subsequent cuts.
Obviously the large framing square helps a lot.
Now there's our top and bottom pieces.
The remaining piece gets its factory edge trimmed off
and then we can crosscut the two side pieces to length.
The sides can be cut to final dimension,
but the top and bottom are only cut to width.
The length is kept rough for now.
(lively music)
For the box frame, I'm using premilled,
three quarter inch thick poplar.
Since the stock is already cut to width, all I need
to do is square up the ends and cut the pieces
to the lengths listed in the cut list.
I like to use my chop saw for the crosscuts
and a stop block helps ensure accuracy when
cutting similar length parts.
All the rails and stiles are cut to
final length at this point.
By the way, your short rail should match up
perfectly with the width of your plywood sides.
The actual number isn't as important as the fact
that they're exactly the same.
If you want some curves like the ones featured
in our design, here's how you make them.
Find the center line of a short rail,
and then measure in three quarters of an inch.
Now use a thin strip of scrap to bend a curve shape
from the outside corners to the three quarter inch line.
A second set of hands can really help here.
I usually work alone, so I like to use one of those
nifty Lee Valley drawing bows.
Now cut the curve using the jigsaw with
a high tooth count blade.
The cutting will be slower, but it'll also be cleaner.
Of course even the best jigsaw blade will leave a surface
that still needs work so I use my spokeshave to
finalize the shape of the curve
and further smooth the surface.
You can also use a simple shop made flexible sanding strip.
Now use the first piece as a template for the rest.
If you have a router and a flush trim bit
that will be a great way to go.
Otherwise, just mark the remaining short rails and
repeat the curve cutting process.
We'll do the same thing for three of our four long rails,
starting with one rail as a template,
and then using that to cut the remaining rails.
Remember, the back top rail doesn't receive a curve.
Well now we can start our side subassemblies.
If you're going to assemble with screws, you want to
get to know this little guy here.
It's a countersink bit.
There are a lot of different countersink bits
on the market, but this one I happen to like a lot.
It's got an adjustable bit, so you can control
the depth there.
You've also got, of course, the countersink section here,
and a stop collar that controls the
depth of the countersink.
So in this case, we're going to drive
our screws nice and deep.
Then we'll be able to come back with some dowel rod
and cut it to cap them off so that you
don't see the screw head.
So, let's do some assembly.
Let's start by attaching the side stiles to the rails.
Two screws each should do the trick.
I'll drive the screws at about one inch and then
two and a half inches in from the end.
These holes will go at the top
and the bottom of each vertical stile.
Now it's time to predrill for the plywood side panel.
Strike a line about 7/8 of an inch in
from the inside edge.
Drill four to five holes down the length.
To assemble our sides, I drop in two inch and a half
spacers to help position the plywood panel,
which should also be flush with the top of the stiles.
A clamp snugs things up, and a dead blow hammer allows me
to make fine adjustments.
It's a good idea to predrill the panel so that
the screws don't cause the plywood to split.
Now drive in some inch and a quarter screws.
With the piece flipped over, reapply clamping pressure
once the rails are in perfect position.
Predrill and drive the screws home.
Just like that, we have on of our side subassemblies.
Repeat the process for the other side.
Now our side subassembles are going to be held together
with these four long rails that we've already cut.
In the name of simplicity, we're going to
attach them with pocket screws.
Grab your favorite jig and start drilling.
I center my boards on the jig and clamp it in place.
The two outer holes should do the trick.
Now for the other side.
I don't know how much it helps, but I like to add glue
to my pocket screw joints whenever possible.
With the clamp in place, I drive the screws.
Work your way around and attach all four rails to
one of the side subassemblies.
Now we can flip the assembly over and
attach it to the other side.
(lively music)
With the case upside down, we can install the bottom panel.
The panel should already be cut to width,
so we just need to mark the length.
Cutting is easy enough, as I extend the line
with my square, clamp the guide in place, and cut.
The bottom panel will be screwed up into the side panels,
so we need to know where to predrill.
The center of the side panel should be around an
inch and three quarters to an inch and 7/8 in.
Strike a line on both ends of the bottom panel
and then predrill for three to four screws.
Now drop in the bottom panel.
If it's a snug fit, don't be afraid to give it a couple
of taps with a hammer or a dead blow.
For additional support, I'm going to drive screws in
through the front and back rails too.
I mark a guideline representing
the center of the bottom panel,
predrill and drive four screws per side.
Maybe it's a little bit overkill,
but that's how I do things.
Flip the piece over and get ready to cut the lid.
The lid panel should be cut to fit within
the inside perimeter of the box.
The trim will be cut from inch and a half poplar stock.
I'll cut and attach the sides first.
A clamp helps hold the piece in place securely
while the screws are driven.
The front and back are then cut to size
and attached as well.
Don't worry if the trim sits proud.
We'll sand it nice and flush once the glue dries.
Here's a quick tip for you.
When you're sanding edge trim flush, be sure to keep
at least 50 percent of the sander on the panel.
If you have too much hanging off the edge, you'll create
dips and valleys, and you might even round over the edge
or burn through the veneer.
Now there are a lot of hinges on the market that you could
potentially use for this toy box, including regular
old butt hinges, mortise hinges,
and what I've got here, a piano hinge.
Now there is a special hinge out there that I
highly recommend for something like a toy box
and Rockler sells them.
They're called torsion hinges.
The cool thing is these hinges have the built-in
ability to resist the falling of the lid, so you don't
have to add any supplemental safety items to it.
Problem is, they're very, very expensive.
So, we're going for simple, inexpensive here.
That's why I've got a piano hinge.
Now piano hinges are great,
because they cover a long length like this,
even if it's somewhat flimsy material.
I mean, this is definitely not the best hinge material
I've ever worked with.
The fact that it goes all the way across and has
as many screws as it has,
means it's going to be very strong.
It's easy to install.
Let me show you how to do it.
Find the center of the lid and the box on the back side.
Extend that line to the edge on the case as well as
to the underside of the lid.
We'll use a self centering bit or a vix bit to
predrill for our hinge screws.
Simply drop the hinge in place with
the top leaf folded down.
Line up the center hole with the center line
and predrill the first hole.
Drive a single screw to hold the hinge in position
and predrill the remaining holes.
Now remove the hinge and do the same operation
on the underside of the lid.
If you fold the hinge leaf down and line the hinge up
with the center lines, the hinge should work pefectly
once we do the final installation.
To plug up all of those screw heads, trim a bunch of plugs
from a 3/8 of an inch down.
Notice how the tape creates a zero clearance area
and prevents the plugs from falling through the base plate.
Also notice that I've got a pencil mark in the tape
and that helps me line up each cut.
Installing the plugs is a piece of cake.
A little glue in the hole, a little glue on the plug,
and a few taps with a hammer.
Now I've got quite a few holes to plug
so, enjoy the process.
While the glue on the plugs dries, I measure
for my front and back panels.
I'm going with some quarter inch whiteboard stocks
since my son loves to draw.
The panels will be held in with cleats,
which I'll cut from some scrap stock.
One on the bottom and one on each side
should do the trick.
Because the strips are so close to the panel,
I predrill the screw holes at a slight angle.
Inch and 1//8 screws attach the cleats securely.
To further secure the panel, you might consider
driving a short screw through the panel and
into the top rail as well.
When the plugs are dry, you can use a flush trim saw
to remove the excess or go gangster style
and hit it with a sander.
Now remove the cleats and panels and get ready
for the finishing touches.
I like to hit all the sharp edges with a block plane
and then follow up with a light sanding.
With that, we're done with the construction.
On to the finish.
Now we're going to apply the finish to the toy chest.
I've got my lovely wife Nicole here.
- Hello!
- She's actually going to do the painting.
The thing is she wants it painted.
I tend to not like painted pieces.
So I said, "Look, you want it painted lady,
"you're doing it yourself."
- I will do it myself.
- That's why she's here.
What we're going to use is a product called milk paint.
Now true milk paint is really interesting.
It actually predates history, recorded history.
This is stuff that was used back in ancient times
because it's a very basic formulation made with
milk protein, lime, and then pigments added for color.
So it's actually a pretty durable finish, but we will be
adding an additional water based acrylic on top of it
for extra protection because it's going to
be around a toddler.
- Yes.
- So, just in case.
- He does like milk.
- He does enjoy milk. (Nicole laughing)
He might start trying to liquefy the stuff and drink it.
We'll catch him over there just going, "Blep, blep, blep."
Licking it, so yeah.
Protect it.
It's usually not very water-resistant
so some polyurethane, water based polyurethane,
is a good choice.
So we're going to mix it up.
I'm actually getting the heck out of here.
This is all you now.
- Me?
Let's go!
- Have a good time.
- [Marc] Milk paint comes in all kinds of colors and
you can mix them to your liking.
We're using one scoop of white with one scoop of pumpkin,
the color my son picked out.
Mix the colors thoroughly, and then add in
an equal amount of water.
Warm water seems to work best.
Add about three quarters of the water
and mix to a consistent paste.
Then add the remaining water to get a nice
paintable consistency.
Yes, a round bowl would have been much
easier to work with.
The great thing about milk paint is that you can
dilute it as far as you want, anywhere from a
light stain effect to a heavy, thick coat of paint.
We decided to add in a product called Extra-Bond,
which should help the first coat bind better to
the birch plywood in our toy chest.
One scoop will do.
Now mix for a few minutes, and be patient.
Once mixed thoroughly,
let the paint sit for about 10 minutes.
We're going for a bit of a rustic look,
so inexpensive chip brushes do the trick.
We don't feel the need to be too careful
about hiding brush marks.
If you're new to milk paint, start on the bottom
of the case so that you can get to know the product.
As the paint dries it should take on
a dull, chalky appearance.
We're painting the entire case, inside and out.
After a few hours, the first coat can be sanded.
Now no one likes sanding, but Nicole's a champ,
and she doesn't mind getting her hands dirty.
Vacuum the dust with a soft brush attachment
and then mix up another batch of paint.
Two things are different this time.
We no longer need the Extra-Bond product,
and we're leaving out the white color.
We didn't really like the color as much as we thought
we would, which is definitely something
that can definitely happen with milk paint.
You'll find the second coat goes on
much easier than the first.
After an overnight dry time, we get some acrylic
water based poly ready.
We don't want much of a shine,
so satin will do nicely.
Coat the entire project thoroughly with
a decent synthetic bristle brush.
Keep in mind, the first coat will look like crap.
Don't fret.
Once the first coat dries, give it a light sanding with
320 grit and then proceed with the second and final coat.
The second coat looks much more even and consistent,
but since we're dealing with milk paint,
don't expect perfection.
This is a much more earthy product than most are used to.
Once the finish is dry we can install the panels
and secure them with cleats.
The easiest way I find to install the hinge
is to lay the case down on its back.
Attach the hinge to the lid first,
using the supplied screws.
Now prop up the case with a block of wood
so that the hinge lines up with the holes.
Simply drive the screws, one at a time,
all the way across the hinge.
For some extra added safety, I installed two lid supports
on the inside of the case.
Alright, so the finish is dry.
I attached my LEGO plates, so the only thing left to do
is unleash the kid.
(playful music)
- Whoa!
Lookit!
Whoa!
Books!
LEGO!
We got LEGOs.
LEGO time, Daddy.
(joyful squealing)
If you can't build one of these toy chests,
we actually have shirts and mugs where the proceeds
also go to the charity.
Go to TWWStore.com to find that.
I think it's time we let this kid have his toy chest.
I've kept it from him long enough.
- You ready buddy? - [Nicole] Wanna go?
- Wanna play?
- Wanna go LEGO?
Say bye-bye.
- Bye.
- Come on, daddy!
(lively music)
- Tablesaw!
Planer!
Bandsaw!
Shaper!
In Powermatic yellow.
- Come on, Dad!
(lively music)