This is a single 3D print, living spring vise, printed in ABS on a high dollar 3D
printer. Can I print the same thing in PLA on an
Ender 3 v2? Will it work? We'll find out on today's
Filament Friday.
This video is sponsored by pcbway pcb prototype the easy way with a full
featured custom printed circuit board prototype service
from pcbway. Filament Friday is also brought to you by these patreon
supporters. In a previous video I 3D printed this.
It's a vise made of PETG and it works really well. I use it to
hold circuit boards when i'm soldering. But it's a little bit slow and when i'm
doing small boards that i'm constantly flipping
or not that many solder joints it's a little big and bulky.
And like I said, a little bit slow at moving. So I wanted something a little
quicker, a little easier to use and a friend of
mine showed me this. In fact he gave me this one. It's kind of
wore out but this was printed in ABS on a high dollar machine at his work and
he uses it to hold different things including circuit boards.
And this one's still springy enough to hold my little circuit board. And I love
it. It works great. So I want to see if I
could print the same thing, which I did find on thingiverse, using
PLA and Ender3 v2. Would it work? Would it
print? Would the springs break or hold up? And
would it just fuse together? Here's the design that I found in
thingiverse. It's the pcb vice spring loaded by user JoopJoop. It
was released march 24 2019 but this is the first I've ever
seen it. Now in his description he claims you can
print this in PLA, so we'll see if he's right. But he
didn't say what printer and there wasn't much in there as far as
settings. So let's find out if the Ender 3 v2 can handle it.
So i'm using Cura 4.6 to print this. I'm going to print it rough at the 0.28
which still comes out pretty good. Ender 3 machine profile. I'm using three
walls which is very typical for I think that's in my profile.
25% infill which I don't think it matters a whole lot but
some infill. And then 200 degrees c so a little bit lower.
Typically I go 205. I'm going to use 200 but 60 millimeters per second. A little
bit faster than I normally go, normally at 50. I think this machine can handle
it. And i bumped up the retraction speed to 45 millimeters per second because it
can handle it. A stock Ender 3 can't. And then when I
slice it, if I scroll through it here, I need to get up to a certain level and
you'll start to see where the gap appears.
So I get to this 15, 16 layer you can see it's printing walls
but nothing else. And then the springs appear.
So it's designed in to have two layers of gap.
So that's what allows us to print and still move.
I know some of that's going to merge but you can see
by default there's air gap in there so that should allow these to move.
So we'll see how that turns out. And if I scroll all the way up, everything looks
pretty good. Now it is going to take an estimated 6
hours and 25 minutes to print and it came pretty close to that i think it was
a little bit longer. Almost seven hours. If
you hover over the i it'll give you a detail.
And it looks like the outer walls and retraction are taking the most time.
So that's why it takes so long. So now let's actually print it.
Here's a time lapse of it printing on the Ender 3 v2.
I gotta admit i'm a fan of glass bed and it works
really well on this machine. That first layer came out beautifully.
And it prints really well. I do have some stringing that i need to clean up in my
profile but overall i'm liking the print quality
I'm getting out of the v2. To take this off the bed and maybe separate things
I'm going to use this. It's a painters knife. it's part of my Filament Friday
tool kit. It's very very handy for this and it's
so thin and flexible it's great for getting underneath prints
and popping them off. So let's try it here.
Popped off pretty easy. But here's the hard part. I don't want to squeeze this
too much and break something so I want to stop it from fusing so I
want to see if I can get this in there. So it slides right under, kind of just
break everything loose.
Including the center section. Just a little bit tougher.
Now let's get this side it seems to be popping apart pretty good.
Not a lot of effort. The only thing i'm worried about is the center section. Did
it fuse? And it looks a little bit tighter but
i'm able to get the painters knife in there.
Now I've got to get underneath the little handles and go all the way. I think i got
it. So let's see. Yep, one side's moving.
Now the other side and it's working. Check that out. I don't see it breaking.
I do have a little bit of stringing. I still haven't got that setting perfectly
right on the v2 yet, but this is awesome. So you can print
this in PLA. I thought it'd have to be ABS or something
you know, that could stand the flex. And holds a circuit board
nice and tight. Wow I mean it's got a little bit of wiggle
up and down but you're soldering. You're always pushing it down anyway.
This is really really nice. So now I could actually print a bunch of these
if I'm soldering a bunch of boards and make this work.
There's a few snags as I move it but overall I'd say it's a successful print.
The ender 3 v2 did it. Great spacing It worked! Now for the real test. Let's
try and solder a socket to this board and hold it with this thing. So I insert
a 28-pin socket into the board here. I just bend the
the outer lead so it's going to hold it upside down. Put it into
the spring vise and see if it'll hold it. Now
bring in the solder soldering iron and let's solder a few pins.
It's holding it beautifully. I like it. And I can change the angle. I can do
different things with it. So I think this is a winner. I'm gonna
keep this on the bench. And like I said I'm probably going to print a few more.
This worked really well. I like it and this circuit board
is actually from pcbway. In fact most of my circuit boards are from pcbway.
I've used pcbway to fulfill my kickstarters that i've done in the past.
And I cut out my own circuit board so I'll get them in bulk and cut them out
myself. So there's different ways you can go
about it. I highly recommend it. They're not just a sponsor,
I'm actually a satisfied customer. Lay it out with whatever software you want,
send them the gerber files, and you can get some low-cost
printed circuit boards or in volume for a very affordable price.
Check them out. If you like what i'm doing here maybe check out some of the
other videos of projects that are popping up.
And if you don't want to miss an episode click on that CHEP logo and subscribe.
I'll see you next time right here at Filament Friday