Hi I'm Andrew and this is
Blaster Breakdown!
Today I'll show you a job I did for one
of the guys in the Brisbane Area Nerf
Group -
rewiring this Hyperfire to use the
Worker
Hyperfire kit. It's got a metal flywheel
cage
with metal wheels, Worker motors,
using the stock pusher motor, but all
running on a 3S
Lipo. I've also stuck a voltmeter up the
front,
with a push button to activate it.
Let's have a look inside.
Here we are with the insides of the
Hyperfire, plus all the bits from the
Worker kit.
So up the front here we've got the
flywheels, this is the
pusher conveyor belt mechanism that
pushes darts forward -
you can see the little notches there.
That pushes the dart into the flywheel
cage.
And the cog at the back
which is turned by these cogs that are
attached to the pusher motor.
The wiring from the flywheels at the
front comes out here just near the
trigger switch. We've got the mag release
and
the usual locks - physical and electronic -
in place there.
The rev trigger down the bottom here, and
a bit of a control board
with the battery terminals. The stock
flywheel cage will be replaced with this
metal one,
and a barrel at the front fits in like so.
This is a canted cage so the motors are
slightly angled.
It's got a dart feed there and there you
can see the angle.
And so the wheels are slightly offset
and the idea is that imparts a little
bit of spin to the darts,
which should help with accuracy.
These are the motors that come with the
Worker kit - they are high RPM, i think
40 000 RPM at 3S.
There are two switches included in the
kit, one for the rev switch
and one is the firing trigger.
You get some mounting screws for the
motors, as well as
this 3D printed mounting switch plate
that
sits behind the trigger and holds the
trigger switch
just right. This is the voltmeter that
I'll install
in the front, and i've got a momentary
push switch
that will turn the voltmeter on when
it's held, and obviously off when it's
not.
And I'll fit these in the front in
this section here where there's plenty
of space.
So first things first, let's start taking
this apart.
I've exposed all the switches and wiring
now, removing all the various
cover plates and switch cover pieces
and triggers here and there.
At the front there's this electrical
lock that will stop the flywheels from
spinning if the
pusher belt mechanism isn't locked in
place.
Here we've got the magazine lock that
can go, and of course the
firing trigger and the rev switch,
both of which will keep the locations
but replace the switches.
So otherwise I can just begin pulling
all these out.
I'll just snip off the battery terminal
connections, and the pusher motor is held
down
in this kind of frame with a few screws.
And so all of this is now junk and that
can go in the bin.
The trigger switch plate sits just in
here -
it does need a bit of work making space
in the shell so that it will sit flat.
It won't just click into place without a
little bit of
gentle persuasion.
But that will then hold this switch
around about here, one way or the other.
And that'll be activated
pulling the trigger. I think around that
way...
or maybe that way.
And the rev trigger switch will fit
down the bottom here,
and so you just need to make space in
the
shell somewhere around here so that
it'll be triggered
correctly by pulling the rev trigger.
And if I can I'll reuse this cover piece
to keep it all nice and neat.
I've installed the motors and flywheels
into the cage now,
blue and pink looks pretty nice.
You can see the angle and it's a
43.5 millimeter
motor spacing.
And here's the work I've done inside the
shell to fit the switches.
The rev switch first of all - I've cut
down
this ribbing to make space for the
switch,
and that fits in pretty nicely now.
And for the main trigger switch plate
you can see here where I've made a bit
of space
in the ribbing on the inside, so that
this piece now fits in a bit tighter.
Now I can begin reassembling the rev
trigger
section. We've got this manual lock.
The correct trigger itself.
The switch will fit in just about
here. And then the covering plate
I was able to use with just a little bit
of
modification, making a bit of space just
underneath this
screw hole. So now that sits over the top,
that'll be screwed
in place, and holds the whole thing
really neatly together, Nice and secure.
I thought it might be easier to show you
how I wired this blaster up
using this diagram. At the left we've got
the flywheel motors
as a pair, in the middle at the top we've
got the pusher motor,
then the trigger switch and then the rev
switch below at the bottom
And top right is the battery which in
our case is going to be
a 3S lipo. The first thing will be to
connect the flywheels,
so the positive lead from the battery
will go to the normally open
terminal on the rev switch, the common
terminal will go to the flywheels,
and then the negative side of the
flywheels will go back to the
negative terminal of the lipo. Next we'll
connect the
common terminal from the rev switch to
the
normally open terminal of the trigger
switch.
That will ensure that the pusher motor
can only get power if the flywheels
are already spinning. The common tab of
that switch then goes to the pusher
motor,
and the negative from that motor goes
back to the negative of the lipo.
Next I'll connect the normally closed
terminal from the
trigger switch back to the negative
terminal of the lipo,
and that will give us motor breaking for
the pusher motor - essentially when you
release the firing trigger the pusher
motor will come to a
quick stop. And finally the voltmeter and
push button switch
up the front will connect to the
positive and negative of the lipo,
only enabled when that switch is pressed.
And lastly to simplify things, we don't
need
four separate wires going back to the
negative terminal of the battery - we'll
join those all in together
wherever is convenient and suitable. Let
me know in the comments below if you
found this sort of diagram helpful.
And here we are with everything wired up:
the positive lead from the battery goes
to the rev switch
and then onto the firing trigger and
onto the flywheels,
and negative back the other way. The
firing trigger
switch goes to the pusher motor with the
motor braking as described earlier,
And I've reused this purple wire from
the blaster
and just ran it through the hand guard,
and underneath
the magazine well to the push button
switch at the front here.
That all gets covered up so it's out of
the way.
And of course that push button at the
front completes the circuit to activate
the voltmeter.
Now I haven't wired up the XT60
connector yet,
so i'm just going to test the circuit
using these four AAs.
Flywheels are spinning the right way.
Pusher motor works. I'll just point out I
replaced the switch
underneath this little latch here - it
provides a little more tension to hold
the
jam door and conveyor belt mechanism in
place.
And as you can see the pusher motor is
driving the belt in the right direction,
and it breaks nicely when I release the
trigger.
I'll just show you on the other side how
the voltmeter works.
It might be a bit difficult to see in
the light but when I hold that button
down
that's when we get a readout on the
voltmeter.
So I'm happy with the circuit -
everything's working as expected, so I'll
plug the 3S lipo in
and see how it goes at full power.
[Music]
So only the XT60 connector to wire up
now.
Actually there was one other thing I
needed to do. This square shaped
part of the flywheel cage protrudes a
little bit,
and I needed to trim down this ribbing
on the left side of the shell
to make space for that just there.
And now the shell goes back together no
problems,
make sure the wires are sitting nice and
flat.
Don't forget your tac rail piece -
very important. You can see the new
barrel protrudes a little further
out the front so, I've made space in that
piece
for the longer barrel to come through.
And that's all done now -
let's get some chrony results. Now here's
how it looks outside - voltmeter is pretty
smooth,
pretty neat. I've got 25 Worker red full
lengths: I'll go
single shots to start, then twos, and then
just full auto for the rest of the drum.
[Music]
And there you go - I think that's about
what we expected to see.
And here we are down in the backyard.
I'll be 50 feet from the target, as usual.
To start with I'm not going to use the
narrow metal barrel that goes at the
front, just to see how accuracy looks.
There's 25
red Worker darts. Let's have a look.
So about a third of those shots were
whirly birds - they didn't go anywhere , 289 00:12:14,880 --> 00:12:18,480 and as you can see the accuracy was a
bit average.
Next I've got 30 darts, and this time I
am going to stick that
metal barrel guide in the front. It's
just sort of friction fit in there,
not very secure as we'll see.
There you go: no whirly birds, and much
more consistent accuracy.
I'd definitely recommend using that
metal barrel.
So there you have it - that's the
Hyperfire with the
Worker rewire kit, metal cage, metal
flywheels,
running on a 3S lipo. Not a bad blaster
for HvZ or even Superstock events, with
a pretty good rate of fire.
I hope you've enjoyed this video - leave
any questions or comments below.
I'll see you next time