whoa carbon fiber that's pretty dope and pretty strong right yeah but can it hold this board
together well howdy hey everyone i'm hipyo tech and i didn't eat breakfast this morning
today i'm gonna be building out the muso creator it's a real *redacted* board with a couple not
so *redacted* problems we'll go over those issues in a bit but first what did we build it out with
we used durock yellow linears which are a light little linear switch and kinetic labs poly caps
black on white coming in at right around 350 us dollars i figured this would be a good mid-range
build to try it out with anyways sit back relax grab some switches to lube and enjoy the build
so here to give you a quick little disclaimer this board was sent to me for free by muso to review
i am a little bit critical of this board in this video and they're very respectful of the feedback
and wanted to use it to improve their next board in the future i think overall this board has a
lot of potential and with some of the changes i'm going to recommend could end up as a very
fair proposition at its price point moving on to shipping and packaging the board was shipped
decently and arrived very safely from hong kong the packaging was nothing to write home about but
overall was pretty decent it came with your basic accessories of a kind of crummy usb-c cable but
it was purple and that's kind of cool now this is just a minor nitpick but they failed to include a
switch pull or keycap puller which can be a bad thing if you're a beginner just getting into the
hobby as you have to buy a new one separately but they did include this really really dope
metal machine keycap with their muso logo on it i think more boards need to do something like this
as it's a really nice touch and a pretty cool logo also this little guy was the thockiest
key on the board that's pretty cool anyways we'll finally break in and show you the board
right after i show you these screws or whatever i guess the board comes with the top part of
the housing disassembled which i think is an interesting touch but we'll get to that later
this board comes in quite a few different variants which could be confusing to beginners
here i have the type 60a which is a diy kit that you build out yourself
this is a 60 layout that includes the arrow keys which is personally my favorite way to do the 60
layout and it comes in right around 250 us dollars for this diy kit this means that your switches and
keycaps are gonna come separately so that's why my total build price came out to 350 us dollars
for fifty dollars more muso offers a pre-built version with keycaps and switches this would be
a good option if you want to do absolutely nothing with your board but if you want to build it out
and tinker like an enthusiast that's when i would recommend buying your own switches and keycaps
as far as build quality for this bad boy goes this is a really sturdy construction it's a two-piece
construction and uses a tray mounting style the board is machined from 6061 aluminum and
then sandblasted and anodized as far as quality of the machining goes this board definitely hits the
price tag and it really looks beautiful with the separate anodization on the top and bottom pieces
this little chunk is 1.4 kilograms or 3 pounds in freedom units which makes it heavy but not
too heavy moving on to the back of the board you can see the four holes where the top screws into
the bottom as well as spots for rubber feet which we'll put on later i really like the
angles that they cut into this board with and again i think the machining is definitely the
best part here with this board it feels a little bit more creative than ha hunk of metal rectangle
moving on to talk about the carbon fiber plate it's got some flex to it which could lead to
a pretty nice typing experience but you've still got hot spots from where the standoffs connect now
it's not as bad as it could be the carbon fiber plate has built-in rubber standoffs which give it
some squishy squish however that squishiness helps a little bit but it's still gonna be
a stiffer typing experience nothing wrong with being stiff though next let's hear those stabs
hello yeah those are pretty bad we'll talk about those in a second but first let's
pull off that top piece and take a look at the rest of the board don't mind me here i'm just
feeling the metal feels nice here you can see the metal standoffs that connect the pcb and plate to
the bottom housing this is what makes it a tray mount and rather stiff as it doesn't give the
pcb much room to flex some people modify these by adding gaskets to the standoffs and i think
that's okay here you can see the plate has a lot of room to flex but the pcb has basically none
now let's take out those plate mount stabilizers to show you the dirty dirty secret
now i get mad at idabow a lot for including really bad stabilizers with their boards
and i think musso is no exception here i think honestly it would be better if they didn't
include the stabilizers as it's just really a bad look to include this cheap of stabilizers with an
expensive board also here's the deep dark secret deep dark secret time this board doesn't support
pcb or screw and mount stabilizers and it's north facing led but doesn't even have any leds
for those of you that are new north facing leds cause a little bit of interference
with cherry profile keycaps normally it's justified because that's for the sake of rgb
but there's no leds here so it's kind of hard to defend i'd say recommendation number one for muso
get rid of this pcb and find a different pcb to use this would fix the north facing led issue
as well as the stabilizer issue with one fell swoop or in the business of recommendations
i recommend adding some foam to the case and possibly between the plate and pcb as well
you'll see why in just a couple minutes speaking of the plate it's got a nice engraved muso and
type 60a logo in it also carbon fiber is pretty dope these rubber gaskets on the bottom are
pretty interesting let me just give you a quick little preview squish squish see squish squish
squish squish the rubber tip number three i think adding some of those squishy guys to this bottom
section of the case would be a pretty good idea also because of how the bottom is designed it'd
be kind of hard to do like a silicone pull or anything anyways let's just get this assembled
so i put the top plate on i add these little bolts and then i get ready for my magic spell
they go in with the included allen key and overall this thing feels pretty sturdy
oh yeah rubber feet again these rubber feet are very very rigid and reduce the slippy slidey quite
well oh we've teleported to an alternate dimension where i'm going to lube up all the stabilizers
the stabilizers for this board are plate mount and came bone dry now honestly if you buy this
board throw these out buy some duroc plate mount stabilizers and thank me later uh use code hypio
at prevail key company in the description you'll save five percent but really though these are
these are quite awful even after clipping and lubing them up pretty generously the only option
you had with these was mushy or clicky normally i would swap these out but i actually don't have
any plate mount stabs on hand so these are what you get oh hippie are those gatteron yellows
no they're derock yellows i don't even know why you would think they're gathering yellows the
yellow is a totally different shade of yellow gee whiz these are some 55 gram linears that i
purchased from kinetic labs want to buy some and support the channel consider clicking that link
down in the description below i lubed all of these by hand although it really wasn't necessary as
they came with pretty good factory lubing i wanted to give this board the best shot possible with the
switches even though most of the switches it comes with are stock gatter on switches it's really hard
to go wrong with the durac linear and these are just a nice light version of them maybe one day
i'll do a derlock linear switch review make sure you're subscribed for that it could happen so yeah
the board is gorgeous but what keycaps are we gonna put on it well great question keep asking
those good questions to stick with the kinetic lab sponsor vibe i decided to go with kinetic
labs black on white polycaps now the switches i purchased myself but these keycaps were sent to me
for review by kinetic labs you can also get these down in the description but i did make a grave
mistake of not knowing that these didn't really support this layout these are double shot pbt
keycaps and they're all right quality i did see a little bit of warping issues with the spacebar
earlier in the video but i decided just to flip the space bar and it turned out pretty well but
yeah because this board uses a very odd layout and a 2u left shift which is very non-standard we had
to go with the zero key but hey look at that metal key cap that's a nice little metal key cap yeah
so the build is done and honestly looks are subjective but i really love the look of this
board the sound well we'll be talking about that soon i found the typing experience on this board
to be all right it feels kind of just like an idabel board honestly where it's stiff-ish but
passable like you wouldn't get mad at it but you also wouldn't be blown away by it however
i reckon this case has a little bit of pinging issues and didn't sound
the best to type on at first now i'll be alleviating this later in the video but
let me just leave you with a sound test real fast and let me know what you think in the comments
now this is definitely pingier than i'd like for a 250 board but i cut up some carbon air filters
which i just had lying around and i stuffed the board full of them which was relatively
easy actually they fit in quite nicely also it's worth noting that the microphone amplified the
ping like a ton and it really wasn't that bad but hey sound tests are subjective and don't listen to
sound tests yeah except i'm going to give you one at the end of this video so woohoo hypocrite time
anyways musso if you're watching this video if you implement those three to four things that i
recommended i reckon this would be a pretty decent board until then i have a hard time recommending
this to enthusiasts but as your average joe just looking for a metal keyboard that goes thonk thunk
i guess i could see people wanting it well that's the end of the build first i'd like to thank you
guys a lot as i just hit 25k subs and my growth lately has been incredible it's honestly awesome
next i'm gonna leave you guys with a sound test and if you like this video do a sound test of
your own in the comments and make sure you get subscribed finally a special thank you to all the
people that give me money to make dumb videos like this if you want to give me money to make dumb
videos click that join button down below and you might even get a special thank you like the people
that joined the hippies chosen tier thank you to not suss zack platty platt cody j and aquarius bye
you