let's do it I'm testing out some different MIG welding settings today and
I'm gonna do some cutting and etching and compare let's get right into it for
starters I'm gonna use a quarter inch thick metal on an outside corner joint
and I'm gonna be using really low wire feed speed settings now the in
Motorsports on an outside corner joint like this on suspension parts and things
like that oftentimes people will turn the wire feed speed down pretty darn low
and it slows the travel speed down and they use a little technique it's kind of
known as MIG like TIG and it makes us sort of a stack of Dimes and I'm not
very good at it but I'm using those those similar settings anyway to what
I've seen done from people that are good at it and basically it's kind of like
this where you just kind of work the arc down into the bottom of the joint just
slowly progress a little hitch forward and then kind of back a little bit and
pause and it's a very slow travel speed and when done right it looks really
super nice like I said I'm I am not good at this and I for some reason I just
don't have a big like TIG gene in me but that that's a similar technique anyway
and so now I'm going to go to the auto set function here and this is what it
tells me I should be using for 3/16 inch thick metal even though I'm welding
quarter inch I'm gonna use the default settings for 3/16 which are much higher
like the wire feed speed is 342 as opposed to 190 that's a lot of
difference in wire feed speed controls amperage so all I'm doing here is just
staying up in the front of the pole and just doing a very slight oscillation
mostly just to play the light a little bit and help me see where I'm going a
little bit better so you can see the travel speed is quite a bit faster I've
got my stick out probably a little longer than I should but that's mainly
just for filming so the nozzle doesn't block the arc so very different look you
can see there's a definitely a difference in penetration one on the
left is the colder one the only way to really tell what happened is to cut into
them polish cut and etch then we can see exactly how much penetration we got or
didn't get again this is at 18 points volts 190 inches a minute low 35 wire a
swab edge will tell us exactly what we got here
you could already see a hint of lack of fusion there in the root of the joint
but now we know exactly how much we got you won't always see like a fusion
before you etch that's why you etch all right this is the the hotter of the two
run at 342 inches a minute 19 and a half volts we should see some difference here
but nothing like testing to make sure that one got in there a whole lot better
definitely next I'm going to turn it over just slightly change the position
instead of welding flat this is horizontal there's really not much
different but for some reason it did change the way the puddle flowed a
little bit I'm using the stock settings here for 3/16 metal and I'm trying to go
slow enough that I make sure to nip that top corner but not undercut it travel
speed is I don't know maybe it's a little slower because I'm having to kind
of really watch to watch for undercut whereas I didn't have to worry so much
in the flat position all right next I'm going to go down and
drop down again to those lower settings the same settings I used before the
lower wire feed speed and that makes the travel speed really go really slow I'm
pausing at the top and letting the letting the kind of the puddle fill up
and nip the nip those edges so I don't have any choppy undercut and I'm
probably still gonna have some but this does slow the travel speed a lot I'm and
I'm working the arc to try to work the metal down into the root of the joint
but who knows that's why we test stuff so definitely not MIG like TIG but
fairly uniform looks better appearance-wise then the hotter setting
you can see the hotter setting is on the right definitely penetrated more and
since this is now the other side and a fill it well I can handle a lot more
heat here I'm going to crank it up to the recommended settings on the auto set
and basically just select material thickness so I've got 21 volts and 355
inches a minute that's what it gave me when I selected quarter-inch thick
deal years ago I would take in parts into my garage shop and I would weld
maybe you know 30 or 50 parts that had four or five welds this long on them and
I would use probably a little bit hotter setting than this just because it sped
things up a lot and I was interested in getting done with the job and getting
paid and that's what I would do if the job can handle the heat
why not crank it up a little bit so an inside corner like this even though it's
three sixteenths you can definitely use a little bit hotter setting outside
corner you just don't need you don't need quite the heat after this cools I'm
going to cut it in two places one we're gonna see what it did on the colder
settings on the outside corner and then the other the hotter settings I won't
show you the actual cutting and the polishing because we've been through all
that before but the one on the right is the hotter on the outside corner and the
thing I'm interested in seeing is does the penetration meet what does the
penetration from one side kind of overlap the penetration from the other
the more you polish the more detail you generally see I took these down to about
a 400 grit polish so you can see some details you can see those lines in there
which are something apparently called solidification segregation and you
generally don't want to see straight lines so when I first saw this on the
first one that I did a few years ago I thought it might be a lamination but I
got a comment from a steelmaker metallurgist who cleared me up on that
well I learned something doing this video I hope you did too thanks for
watching and I hope you'll visit my online store at weldmonger dot com that's
how I pay for these videos see you next time
you