Hi, I'm Luke. Today on Out of Darts, we are going to check out
the elite conversion kit for the Ultra 2. let's dive right in!
It shouldn't be a surprise by now to hear that I don't really care for the Ultra lineup.
I'm not a huge fan of these 50-cent darts: they don't fly far, they don't fly straight,
and they're really a bad bargain for the consumer. That's not to say that the entire line is a flop
and uninteresting to modders because I love what people have been doing with the Ultra 2.
Today I'm going to show off a kit that's designed by Kuryaka (and LCobeaga). He's the creator of the
Daybreak cage geometry and flywheel geometry. We carry his cages for the Ultra 2 on the shop,
but we don't currently carry this kit. If enough of you comment that you want to see this on the
shop, we will certainly add it, but for now, this is really just a feature video showing
off another cool community design. I will put the links to these parts in the description,
so you can check it out yourself if you want to print your own.
The standard Ultra 2 blaster shoots Ultra darts and has a 6 dart capacity.
This replacement cylinder allows for 9 shots, and it allows for standard elite darts to work
with the blaster. This gets rid of one of the biggest complaints I have for the Ultra lineup,
and that is simply these darts. As I mentioned, they are just really poor quality. They not only
don't fly well and are, you know, overpriced, but they're also poorly made. I've had a number
of these break in half. I've had plenty of d caps where this one specifically you can see the glue
is just horrible. I really find this disappointing when you're paying so much for the ammo,
so when Kuryaka designed this new cylinder to replace it with elite darts,
it really solves a lot of the problems. It's a relatively simple upgrade, but there is some
finessing to get everything installed inside. This blaster was put together by our mod tech Greg.
It was one of his personal projects, and it's got some other touches that I'll talk about as well.
Inside, we've got fang motors, and we're getting pretty decent performance.
I'll put up the chronograph readings here on the screen.
It's a very snappy blaster. The rear-loading makes it really easy to top off on the fly. I think this
would be a really fun sort of casual round blaster as well as a good blaster for a sidearm option.
You've got a kind of single-action moving the cylinder. It's nice and clicky. It feels really
good, and overall I think it's a really great mod kit. It fixes a lot of the problems I have with
the blaster, not only the ammo itself, but it fixes the accuracy problem. The elite darts fly
a lot straighter not only due to the ammo type but also due to the flywheels actually being centered.
And when I say centered, I mean centered with the feeding mechanism. If you've ever looked
down in Ultra One -- I'll try to get this in the B-roll; I've shot it for other videos. But
the dart head comes in; if we've got the dart path like this, the dart head is actually coming
in crooked (only partially rather than centered) on those flywheels. I cannot for the life of me
understand why this is the case. There is so much weird manufacturing going on in the Nerf
Ultra lineup I really wish I could hear more about why some of these decisions were made.
Perry, my video guy here, also pointed out that this has got the same- My original Ultra (this
is the one that I own; it's one of the first ones that came out) it's got this off-color
plastic piece that doesn't match the rest of the blaster. And in the later releases, they
have fixed this and made them normal again. And it's on both sides. I also heard that the Pharaoh
has a similar part that's got the same odd color. If anybody has a clue why they would do this or
why this was done, I would love to hear it. It makes no sense that -- unless it was, like --
It makes no sense; I have no idea why they would not just make that orange. And clearly,
they had no idea why they did it either because they fixed it later.
Greg also did a custom print for the grip. This is a resin-printed part which is something I haven't
really got to dive into yet. Resin printing isn't very viable for commercial purposes
at any sort of scale. It's great if you're doing little miniatures that are high detail,
but as far as printing general mod parts, it's not exactly the most economical.
On top of all the other considerations there are, such as smell, ventilation,
and our own health. But this has got a nice grip fill, which actually really does dramatically
improve the ergonomics of this blaster. It also makes this rev trigger really clicky and short.
He's done something different on the wiring that I don't normally do,
but it is something that a lot of users like, and that's to put motor braking,
so if you listen to this blaster as i rev up and let go of the flywheels you'll hear it.
So that is a single-pole dual-throw switch that's been wired to run the current back
through the motor when it's released. That way, you're actually using the back current to break
the motor or slow the motor down faster. It can be nice if you want to hear more of what's going on
in the gameplay around you or if you just like the sound of it being quiet faster rather than those
flywheels coasting over time for me I find that I'm generally revving up, firing, revving up,
firing, over and over in a short period of time, so I tend to like the coasting. But ultimately,
that's a personal preference. Keep in mind that doing motor braking does actually
wear on your motors a little bit more as it can produce more heat,
but generally, I don't think you'll find it a problem.
Another fun little quirk you can do is while this cylinder is only designed for full-length darts,
if you put two half-lengths in there, the back one will push the front one into the flywheels,
and it'll actually fire half-lengths just fine; you basically will always
have a load of half-lengths in there that are essentially just acting as pushers.
The parts that you'll need for this mod are the actual cage itself,
of course, which we sell in the shop, the cylinder itself with the indexing
plate, and then the actual trigger and the firing assembly. It's worth noting that this is a pretty
finicky print, so if you are going to print this, it prints on the bed like this. It does require a
little care and attention as far as the prints, and your printer had better be dialed in pretty
well because it's pretty small layer sizes, and you do get a little bit of stringing
there depending on your retraction settings. Here's an example here where this one actually
warped when we just licked it with a heat gun, so you do need to be careful with these parts,
and it's due to the spacing inside. There's really not enough room to actually have a thicker part.
The design overall Greg said was pretty easy to put together. There's some tricky spots
with the wire path because it is fairly tight so keep that in mind. We think this would be a
phenomenal choice for an HVZ game with nine shots and being able to constantly top-up.
It's a really great scavenger loadout, and I think people will have a lot of fun with it for that.
Overall, I think this is a really great mod, and it's a lot of fun. I'm definitely going to do my
own as well. Let me know if you'd like to see these on the shop. This is (partially) designed
by Kuryaka; it's something we can license and print from him. We sell all of his other
cages because the daybreak geometry is, by my estimates and testing the best out there. The
wheels are fantastic, very reliable, and the performance is second to almost none
when you consider how reliable the cages are. Hope you enjoyed this
video. Let us know what you thought in the comments. Until next time, I'm out of darts.