hey Jody here we're stick welding uphill today T joint with 7018 multipass two
different brands of electrodes cut and etch test at the end let's do it ...one of the
brands is going to be these eSAB 7018 1/8 you can see the amperage range is
listed at 110 to 140 amps I'm going to compare those to these hobart rods
amperage range 90 to 150 so I'm going to settle in for the first pass 120 amps
dcep 3/8 inch thick metal and so I'm going to
label the top half here with the e and the bottom half with an H I'm going to
try to let it cool off between beads a little bit so it's not skewed or one welded hotter
than the other and I'm also going to put a ground in addition to the
ground I have toward the bottom I'm going to put a ground on the top here
like a jumper cable I find that that really helps a lot in preventing arc
blow sometimes you get it no matter what but I found that having that extra
ground there so you have a ground at the beginning and a ground at the end it
just seems to help a lot so before we take a look at some close-up arc shots
let's talk about rod angle a little bit I would recommend a slight push angle
don't get carried away with your rod angle I would also recommend in your
mind to kind of shoot for a straight in 90 degree if you're like me at all when
you're under the helmet things kind of can creep on you and so I always wind up
using a little bit more of a push than I think I'm doing so if I start off with a
90 degree angle I usually wind up with only a slight push and that usually
works so let's speed this up for the remainder of this half of the joint will
chuck up a hobart rod now and weld the bottom half and then take a look at it I
generally prefer to use both hands when I can but I'm just getting a little
practice one-handed here so I'm just kind of
bracing myself with one hand on the pole where the T joint is attached to and
then I'm just trying to hold the other hand as steady as I possibly can in my
mind on a stringer like this I'm making tiny little overlapping triangles I find
that kind of helps me to gauge how how fast I'm going with my travel speed and
to keep my travel speed even but you don't have to do anything
in fact there are some welding procedures that basically state little
or no electrode manipulation allowed so when stringer beads are required
sometimes there's a limit on the width sometimes there's not sometimes there's
no requirement for stringers or weave but I'm doing stringers today because
sometimes stringers are required so that's not like night and day however I
would have to say the Hobart looks just a little smoother then the eSAB and I
think it could easily be me I really suspect that the eSAB needs a few more
amps that's just the way it goes with different brands some run better hotter
so for this next bead I'm gonna use this kind of angle I'm slightly favoring the
right-hand side so that I'll help prevent undercut so the first pass I
welded at 120 amps but now things are warming up a little bit so I just
knocked it down five amps to 115 notice I'm starting out here pretty much just a
slight push angle I started out actually closer to 90 degrees as I go forward I
get a little bit more of an angle but the good thing is if you hold a tight
arc electrode angle is very forgiving so what's a tight arc for me it's tight
enough that I can kind of feel the flux that's baked on the electrode I can kind
of feel it just rubbing a little bit so let's speed this up a little bit so that
we can get to the arc shots I did get a little bit of a peeler on that one so
that's encouraging that's the isaw broad again at the top half of the T joint and
we'll do the bottom half here same on the right-hand side of that using the
Hobart electrode I'm paying attention here to the right-hand side of the bead
as much as I possibly can to that's where I want to avoid undercut if I get
a little undercut on the bead that's not a big deal I'm going to weld over that
anyway but I don't want to be leaving undercut on the base metal so what I'm
doing here just because I'm in practice mode I ran the first bead the route pass
I'm running to overtop of that and then I'm gonna run three over top of that not
because it needs that much for this thickness but I'm just I'm just
practicing now I'm going to shift gears and go to this rod angle favoring that
left hand side once again just it helps to prevent undercut let's take a look at
that right here with the Hobart rod once again I'm starting off in my mind anyway
because I really can't tell underneath the helmet I'm starting off at a 90
degree angle and that's turning into a slight push angle I'm using just a
slight manipulation here at the electrode just a slight either an
upside-down V or a series of little tiny little triangles sometimes I forget
which one I'm doing okay that's two beads let's take a quick
look at that see if there's much difference between the eSAB and the
hobart not like night and day I must say the Hobart looks a little smoother but
eSAB again I think it's designed to be run 5 or 10 amps hotter and that would
probably smooth some of those little ripples out it seems to be showing a
ripple each time I shake a little bit on the eSAB so from here on out I'm just
going to show these next three beads just using the Hobart electrode again
I'm paying really close attention to the right-hand side of the bead trying not
to leave any undercut keep it a nice tight arc if I slip or shake or anything
I try to pause just momentarily and fill in any undercut that I made but
sometimes you just don't see it until you chip the slag all right I'm over
lapping that that previous bead by half at least I'm trying to and then this
third bead I'm taking a look at the left-hand side trying not to leave any
undercut there and of course it does help to have the mill scale cleaned off
to prevent undercut yes stick rod will definitely burn through mill scale but
you're a whole lot likely to have undercut if you have mill scale on there
so there's the eSAB rod at the top there's the Hobart on the bottom not a
huge difference between the two as far as appearance but we're going to cut
niche and see if there's any difference on penetration and internal quality etc
I'm using a solution edging solution that's designed for passivating
stainless steel and removing heat tent from stainless steel but it it really
brings out the weld nugget on this carbon steel all right that's the e Saab
and here is the Hobart u you can see I slipped it looks like I shook a little
bit and didn't pause to fill it up I got a little bit of bead on bead undercut
there or maybe I just didn't place the bead exactly where I needed to but
anyway it's a little distinct low spot there on the on the face
Hey hope you enjoyed this thanks for watching we'll see you next time
you