I think last year I reviewed one of the throwiest lights ever the K70.
I dont know I have a bad memory.
Lets get ready for a review of another extreme thrower the Manker MK35 provided by the outdoor
gear Pros at Going Gear.com for review The MK35 is a similarly styled light to the K70
so youll see comparisons between the two in this video if I feel like it.
An Extreme thrower means its candela or beam intensity, which affects how for the beam
can throw is really freaking high, like maybe some people have to be to watch a 15 minute
video about a flashlight.
Because I do like to hear myself talk.
The Manker MK35 is the third or 4th thowiest light made again were not talking modded,
government helicopter, or custom lights just production lights.
The other three are the K70, and the Thrunite TN42, and the Niwalker BK-FA09S one I own
and another I asked Thrunite for and they said no the hair gel guys have already reviewed
it.
I am paraphrasing of course.
I can't say for sure there's not another production light thats as thowy, but no more I'm aware
of.
The Manker Mk35 is made from a chunk of hefty aircraft grade aluminum and has a maximum
output of over 2500 lumens and beam intensity of over 500,000 candela courtesy of the Cree
XHP35 Hi emitter.
The same emitter used in those other 3 lights I mentioned earlier- they all have a massive
reflector and that same emitter.
It has a coated glass lens, runs off 4 18650s, and has that black type III anodization on
the outside.
I never bring up that spec anymore.
So let's take a look at output modes.
My figures and Mankers are on screen for your viewing pleasure.
Remember to watch my video on how I measure lumens, if you like hearing me talk.
First is moonlight.
Moonlight is assignable to any one of 21 discreet levels- the highest being just under 3 lumens.
Most of which will not show up here because theyre so freaking low.
Next is low my figure is lower than Mankers, but I actually like it's level.
Moonlight is the only mode configurable all others are set to preprogrammed levels.
Then is medium 1.
Then is medium 2.
Then is High.
Then is Turbo.
Now let's get to the UI or user interface if this is your first video of mine you ever
watched.
Chances are if it' the first video of mine you ever watched you aren't still watching.
Hopefully your batteries are in fools.
Ok to get to moonlight click the button once... then single clicks advance modes... from low,
med 1 med 2 high, then back downward.
Press and hold to turn off.
To get to the turbo mode loop double click from on or off... then single presses advance
to strop and battery check modes...
it goes turbo strobe sos and beacon then the light turns off and the button blinks to tell
you battery voltage.
Remember to turn off at any time just do a long press.
It also has mode memory for any of the low through high modes but not turbo strobe or
moonlight.
Press and hold from off to use the last mode you used...
like low med 1 med 2 and high.
To get into engineering mode.
Turn the light on.
Press and hold to turn off and hold until you see the button under your finger light
up... 4 quickj presses then you can set you desired moonlight.
1 of 21 levels... from a fraction like the lowest moonlight of any light I have to just
under 3 lumens.
If you can't find a good moonlight then you must not be a person who likes moonligjt.
In fact it brings up a minor gripe I have with the light.
The button is always lit when on... lets say you have one of the ultra moonlight modes
lit... the blue button is much brighter.
Manker should really give you a way to disable the LEDs under the button.
Some people like battery indicators under the button- I'm not one of them.
I've never actually cared about battery level indicators on any light...
my rule of thumb is...if the light can't activate the high modes any more, then I charge.
And if you concerned about battery life over a few days bring an extra cell or only use
the lowest mode you can get to see.
Runtimes.
For this I used 4 protected button top 3500mah high drain EVVA cells.
These are pretty large cells and they fit fine.
Translated I did not test Low Voltage Protection.
Sometimes I don't test it and here is my reasoning as to why I don't sometimes.
First if the light doesn't include cells I have to use my own.
Also some lights can't take protected cells because they require very high drain cells
or they won't fit a longer protected cell.
If a light doesn't include cells, can take protected cells, and operate all modes correctly
on some of my higher drain protected cells- I only use them... and you should too if a
light can accept protected cells.
Now that we have my thought process out of the way...
First is Turbo.
There's a subtle dip in brightness over the first few minutes and a hard drop or step
down in brightness around the 10 minute mark.
Then at about 1 hour and 50 minutes it starts dropping around two hours the button turns
from blue to purple indicating these batteries getting drained.
Button puts on the red light at at 2 hours and 19 minutes, the light dims and shuts off
at about 2 hours and 59 minutes.
Then is high.
High runs steadily with no real visible drop in brightness for abut 2 hours...
there is a drop in brightness but it ain't really perceptible as you can see here.
At 2 hours it starts dimming... then over the next hour the light changes from blue
meaning got juice to purple meaning need juice and red meaning bout outta juice.
Than it's done right around the same time turbo is done.
Then is medium 2.
Medium one is a good long runtime giving you plenty of brightness over the a good amount
of time... like about nearly 7 hours of steady light...
Then it starts to drop off at about 7 hours...
the light starts changing colors not long after 7 hours and over the next 50 minutes
it dims and cut off at 7 hours and 51 minutes.
Then is medium 1.
Medium 1 runs much longer than I thought and longer than manker states- which is great.
You first hit 12 hours and are like ohh another video where the light just well doesn't dim
it stays bright then 24 hours of light hit... and it doesn't get any better...
you see some bugs flying around then 36 hours hits... and youre like dang because you dont
cuss because they get offended... then you hit a little over 37 hours button starts changing
colors...
you know it's coming and it cuts off at 37 hours and 50 minutes...
Beamshots.
Here are the lights I'll be comparing the MK35 to.
Some flooders...
some throwers.
Ok first let's get the context light out of the way.
I started doing this to give a low end frame of reference to my bright lights.
This is a 1000 lumen light thats not super floody or thowy.
For most people this is the brightest sort of light they've seen... eyes and camera perceive
brightness differently.
Ok Now the Manker MK35.
My second throwiest light.
Just by a bit though.
You can see it has a tight high contrast hotspot and dim spill.
Hot spot is the bright center the spill is the dim light around the center taking up
most of the frame.
It's a cool white light.
Next is the Acebeam K70... slightly less lumens overall... but a very tight high contrast
hot spot... this is the part of the beam that throws farthest.
A light like this or the MK35 are best used for long range spotting... the 120 feet of
my backyard is almost a waste of the throwing power of this light.
The MK35 and K70 do well with long ranges and can light stuff up well still over 700
feet away or more.
Now is the Nitecore TM16Gt... this is still a very throwy light but not as throwy as the
K70 or Manker... but its brighter too overall.
I wouldn't call any of these every day carry lights unless you have large areas of land
to search at night.
Or would like the cops called on you from the house next door.
Back to the MK35...
Which is a hefty light, but it's supposed to be... it has a lot of extra alumium to
help shed heat.
Next we got the Convoy L6... by the way I have reviewed all lights seen in this video-
so search advanced knife bro and the model number of the light to watch those reviews.
The Convoy is a relatively cheap big lumen light brighter than the Manker but no where
near as throwy.
As you can see here... the emitter on the MK35 is a more lets say directional LED...
that in combination with the large reflector helps concentrate light light into a dense
hot spot that gets larger and less intense as you shine it on things far away.
Now the Adventure sport Flashlights super ultra floody 2D maglite.
This is the exact opposite type of light as the MK35... it scatters the light.
And now the Noctigon Meteor... just for a bright light with you know some candela.
Ok.
Let's compare the MK35 briefly to the other Manker I own the MK34... its floodier and
brighter and much more compact.
These lights do two different things.
Check out my review on that for more details... the MK34 is much much less thowy then the
MK35- it's a shorter range light.
Sorry the framing is a little low here.
Now the part where I do a long range test of over 700 feet away...
I had to do this at 4am on a Sunday before I went to work because it's the only time
my street doesn't have traffic and my neighbors aren't watching out their window.
This helps you understand why you might need the stupid throw of MK35 versus something
that's only stupid bright.
The Acebeam K70 edges it out though in throw... for most real world applications the little
amount of candela that separates them doesn't really matter much in the real world.
They are both very similar lights.
The Manker is cheaper than the Acebeam by about $30 and has more configurable moonlight
modes.
Now the less ultra thowy Nitecore TM16GT.... it doesn't doo too bad, but as you can see
at 700 feet the MK35 is still more intense on farther away objects.
It becomes a wow light when you have far away objects to light up.
And finally how about the Convoy L6... the least thowy of the 4 lights... but it has
a more usuable beam at closer ranges, but is still stupid bright.
Ok.. lets finish up.
Some people are watching this video wondering if they also need the MK35 but already own
the K70.
Well I'd say you don't need to own them both, unless you're a weirdo like me.
Or if you own the NiWalker or Thrunite I mentioned earlier in the review then probably not.
But let's do a quick summation of the differences between my K70 and Manker MK35.
The Manker has a pretty cool assignable moonlight mode feature.
The K70 has a moonlight mode of about 1 lumens but not quite as low as you can get the Manker
which is between .01 lumen and 3 lumens.
The Manker is negligibly brighter and the Acebeam is negligibly thowier.
Some people have said they don't like the UI on the Manker...
I don't necessarily agree... because some subscribers like Steve Kluver says he loves
it.
And people on the forums like it.
I like it fine... but like any new UI... you need time to get used to it.
If you only have a few lights it ain't no thing, but if you have 50 like me, sometimes
you forget the nuances.
It's like driving someone elses car and learning how the cruise control operates.
You'll figure it out and remember it if you want to.
The Manker is also a heavier light than the Acebeam... in big lights thats actually a
good thing...
it's nearly 100 grams heavier...
meaning more aluminum and more area for the heat to disperse and shed.
The runtimes are great...
I see no real negatives about the Mk35 except that weird thing I bright up about the backlit
button.
It's waterproof to IPX8 standards so rain snow sleet and temporary full shallow submersion
in water are all fine.
If you like this review and like my channel in general...
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Also watch all my other reviews because they need views too and buy this light at Going
Gear.com.
who provided the Manker MK35 for review.
Thanks for watching.