When you're doing up a room, it's
the finishing touches that can make all the difference,
like the moldings.
If you're doing up an old room, you
can reuse your existing moldings.
You'll save a bundle, and it'll keep the original character
of the room.
Or if you're after a new look, there
are plenty of new moldings to choose from.
For this job, I'm going to be installing new moldings,
skirting along the bottom, scotia at the top,
and architraves around the door and window.
OK.
These are our pre-primed architraves,
straight out of the factory.
Now, we're going to do our first.
The reason we do this is because once the architraves are on,
all that skirting's going to butt up to it.
Now, what we're going to do first, just
make sure there is nothing on the floor,
there's no old bits of paint or anything.
So that sits nice and square, hard down on the floor.
It's looking lovely.
I've already pre-cut that square on the end.
Now, what we're going to look for is a three millimeter
quirk.
A quirk is the distance from the edge of the architrave up
to our doorjamb.
Now, the reason we give ourselves a quirk,
if I was to put that architrave flush
with the edge of our doorjamb, after a while, the timber's
going to move.
The paint's going to crack.
The door's going to be slammed.
After a while, you're going to be left with quite an open gap,
and that looks pretty ugly.
So what we're doing, by moving that
over about three millimeters, it doesn't look so bad
if the door was to move or the architraves
is going to open up a little bit.
So in our case here, we're going to go for a three millimeter
quirk.
So I'm going to come up from the bottom of my doorjamb three
millimeters, and I'm going to put a little mark there
on my architrave.
That indicates the short point of my miter.
So it's just to help us out when we get to our chop saw
and cut it.
We're just going to put a like going down that way, just so I
remember when I get over there, my 45 degree goes on that angle
there.
So that's my left side.
My top, I've already pre-cut a 45 degree on one end,
so this is going to help me out.
Now that just sits on there, remembering
to keep our three millimeter gap from the edge of our jamb
to the side of where our new architrave will sit.
And we come over to the other side here,
and once again we allow a three millimeter quirk.
Mark that.
That's our short point on the miter.
And helping ourselves out, indicating which way
our miter's going to go.
So I've done our top and our lift.
Now, our right-hand side is exactly the same as the left.
Sitting that nice and square on the ground.
We allow three millimeters.
That's the short point on my miter.
And that's the way our angle is going to go.
Right.
We can take these out to our chop saw, cut all these in one,
bring them back in ready for putting on.
Now it's a good idea to cut all the miters on your architraves
at the same time.
OK.
I'm putting the architraves on with our good old trusty pin
gun there, but there's nothing wrong
with using your hammer and some finishing nails.
We're starting at the bottom and working our way up.
That way we're just following the contour of the door jamb,
ensuring that we've got our three millimeter
gap the whole way up that's going
to form our lovely little three mil quirk.
Righty-o.
When you're putting these nails in,
you just want to make sure they actually work in pairs.
One's going in the door jamb, and one's actually
going into our stud.
So a lot of these are doors, there's only a couple
of nails that are holding them, so what we're doing
is ensuring that the door jamb is not going to move anymore.
So don't be afraid to give it plenty of nails.
We can always fill them in later.
OK.
Now top piece.
OK, so what we do, good old trusty little bit of PVA there.
OK, I've put our PVA on.
Let's just marry that joint up.
Now we just repeat the same for our last architrave.
Little bit of PVA on there.
And this time, we've got to start from the top
and work our way down.
Just ensuring all the time that we've got
a nice even three millimeter quirk.
Now here's a little tip for you.
When you come close to our door handle,
don't put your nail right when your door handle is.
Because you've got to change that out later,
and you're going to be chiseling in to your door jamb,
what you're going to find, you're
going to end up striking your nail.
So you can happily go straight up above it and below it.
Just don't put it right in the middle.
OK.
Lastly, all we've got to do, we'll clean off that PVA.
And if you feel unhappy with that join,
you give that a really light little sand.
And then we'll just go along and fill our nail holes,
and ready for our top coat.
OK, there's architraves done.
Time to head to our skirtings.
Right.
There's two walls you take into consideration when you're
starting off you skirting.
The first one is the wall directly
opposite your door, the wall that you're going to see first.
The next one is the wall next to your door.
So let's have a measure up.
Two meters and 38.
Righty-o.
So I'm going to go and cut this and fix that back in.
OK, we've measured our first wall.
Made a mark on our skirting here.
Now that is going to be a square cut on both ends.
OK, just before we rock into putting our skirting down,
we just want to make sure that our flow is nice and level.
So we've got our trusty little [? blade ?] scraper.
And let's just take away any old glue or bit
of build-up of varnish.
Sweet.
Once again, trusty little bit of PVA.
Now with our PVA, you can glue the back of the skirting
if you like, but I'd prefer only to glue
where it's butting up against our architrave or another piece
of skirting.
Let's just sit that in there.
Now, a good little tip when you're doing your skirting--
just to make sure that the skirting gets hard down
onto your floor, take an old piece of three by one,
set that gently on top of the skirting,
and just put a little bit of pressure on that.
That comes down nice and tight up against the floor.
Another little tip for you also.
When you're fixing pins into your skirting into the wall,
you want to make sure that you use
the pins that are just enough to go into the framing itself.
If you go in too long, you might not
know where any of your pipes or wires are.
You certainly don't want to hurt anything you shouldn't.
So you don't want it to go into the frame
any more than about 10, 15 millimeters,
about the thickness of this board that we've got here now.
Now it's time to measure up the skirting between the two walls
I've already done.
I'll need to make an overscribe on the ends, which
creates the illusion of having a miter
and helps hide any gaps that may appear later.
I'll show you how to do it.
OK.
So I've just cut a miter on one end of our skirting.
This is for our overscribe.
Now all you do it's cut that on 45 degrees.
And we use our nice little trusty coping saw here.
And just slightly undercutting, we work our way
up that short point.
Sometimes it's a little bit easier if you grab your pencil
and just use that to highlight that edge,
so you can see it nice and crispy.
Yeah, just really carefully take yourself up to that mark,
and then come back to our top point.
Now that should fit quite nicely into our other piece
of skirting.
Once your first end is overscribed,
then measure the length of the skirting.
OK.
You've seen how to cut the nice plain skirting.
If you've got the slightly fancier skirting,
I'm going to show you how to overscribe that as well.
OK.
So we're still cutting our 45 degrees.
And once again, I just use the old pencil
to highlight that edge.
And you just want to slightly undercut it.
Not too radically, but not square,
but just slightly undercut.
So the only point that actually touches
is that short point there.
It's a really good idea to practice
overscribing on an off cut.
Carefully follow the profile of the skirting.
[BLOWING]
Now that skirting there just overscribes that beautifully.
That there, very simply, is how you do
an overscribe on your skirting.
OK.
So we've cut our nice little overscribe there.
Let's just very gently lower that down
and marry that up with our existing one.
And that just butts in there quite nicely.
Obviously we're going to put some glue on there,
and now we're ready to pin it.
Now the good thing about this overscribe
is, it looks like it's 45 degrees,
so it keeps it nice and tidy.
We've got our 45 degree cut on the top there.
And if the room was to move whatsoever,
it's going to hide any sort of a movement.
No gaps whatsoever.
So if we were to put a 45 degree on both of those skirtings,
the room only has to move slightly,
and you're got to get a big, gaping gap you're going to see
from every part of the room.
But if the room was to move once we've done our overscribe,
you'd have to actually come right down the side here
to look into it.
So that's the reason for our overscribe.
So I've nailed my last piece of skirting on.
Now it's time to start the scotia.
Righty-o.
When you're measuring up for your scotia, same thing
as your skirting.
Measure the wall straight opposite the door first,
and then wall straight above your door.
Now, I've got a little tip when you're
measuring for your scotia.
You don't have to worry about going the whole way.
Let's just come round about half way, butt that in.
If you're working on your own, this is quite nice and handy.
I've got 1.7 on the right.
Let's just write that down so I don't forget.
And measuring for the lift, we've got 1.6--
1632.
So add those up, and that gives us
the exact length of our scotia.
Cut your first lengths of scotia square.
So here's my lovely square cut scotia.
Now, when you're putting the scotia up,
you know we've got a top plate, and I
know in the ceiling I've got a knob that's
running all the way around.
So I don't have to try and locate my rafters for the pins.
Just have to note to try and get that back nice and tight.
With these old wobbly ceilings, you've
just got to do your best to try and pull that in as much
as you can.
For our second piece of scotia, we'll
need to cut an overscribe like we did for the skirting.
I'll show you how to do this.
OK.
I've just measured my scotia.
Now, a quick little tip when you're
cutting this profiled scotia.
At the bottom, when you look up, you're going to see 45 degrees.
So you want to make sure you have a 45 degree on the bottom.
Our cut is going to go that way.
We'll square on that end.
And it just-- it's always a really good tip
to do that before you cut it, because it's really easy to
stuff up.
So I've got my 45 degree the bottom, square cut on there.
I've titled my saw over on 45 degrees.
That way I know I'm going to get a square cut there and 45
on the bottom.
So lovely.
That's the first part of my overscribe.
Once again, let's just use our pencil.
And with our trusty coping saw--
and I'm just going to come up a little bit off the bottom
so we don't damage our little end tip there.
And we just finish off that delicate little--
Now that there will fit absolutely beautiful
in the corner of our room.
Now, it's a great little tip to cut your overscribe
on the end of your scotia or your skirting first,
before you actually measure it to length.
That way, if you make a little blue,
you can always cut another miter on the end of it
and then redo your scotia.
So cut your overscribe first, and then measure off it.
So that's my scotia up, with the overscribe looking lovely.
Now it's time to fill any holes, give
your moldings a light sand, and then you can paint them.
So I tidied up this room with a whole new set of moldings.
Scotia at the top, skirting at the bottom, and architraves
the doors and windows.
It really was easy as.