Howdy, folks, kirk here with kirk giordano plastering, today what we're going to do is we're
going to tie this door in on top of the world where we're in Oakland we're up on grizzly peak
they get 100 miles an hour winds here with the wind it's like hurricane weather I've
done about 10 houses up here over the last 30 years and a lot of times
the wind is just phenomenally fierce, so you can't mess around when you tie things in anyhow,
they're actually from San Francisco to do this door we're gonna take the stucco here. He's got
a channel here, then they're going to pull the plywood out and set the door directly in the
channel in here, so this is just going to stay stucco really got to know what you're doing too.
we are going to first there's a big gap right here and we're going to break this out
they broke it out and i looked at it and i said well i can see that
it leaked before us because i can see all the nail holes that are rusting and i can
see broke it out with a hammer because there's no paper left so i asked him what'd you break
it out with he said a hammer i already kind of knew that what we're going to do is we're
going to use some tools and the tools allow us to salvage the paper the house is only
12 15 years old so 15 year old house we should have pretty good paper even though it did leak
so we're going to get started we're going to first break everything out and with this i'm
not messing around i'm not using paper i'm using uh this methane membrane the grace to come around
it's the most important part on here is breaking down far enough to get to this
flashing encountering this flash in here and again there's another deck below that's why i got this
cardboard stuff here i don't want to go below the deck and have to clean up
last thing i'll show you is up here this stuff is about an inch and a half thick that's pretty thick
stuff and it's a santa barbara smooth mission finish that's been floated we've got to use our
tools to break this out properly and this is the most important part on the job if we can't
tuck our new paper or our new vi core grace underneath this existing one it's gonna leak
so our paper is gonna go under the existing here and down to this metal and when i get down to the
metal i'm going to do it just like this we're going to take it here we're not going to round
this edge off we're going to go tight in here that way no water can get in here once we got all that
we're going to put it back together with this network we'll show you when we get to that point
Let me tell you to tip two now. What i'm doing with this bosch is as i'm breaking it out,
i'm going a little bit out of time, like an eighth inch at a time, and i'm working my way back. If
you just try to go an inch or two back, it's just going to leave huge clunkers. Suppose you're using
a hammer now what I've tried to do. In that case, i'm doing a little bit of exploration,
too i'm seeing how good this paper is if the paper is in great condition that i can do my
job a little easier if it's deteriorated, i can't do the job i'm looking at this at kelly
Moore or elastomeric paint on it which is good um that just means they had some issues. They said,
hey, let's paint the thing, and maybe that'll waterproof it once we get it where I've got
some pretty good paper. I've got two inches here i'm gonna take my hammer and pull back like this.
you got to pull it back just like that see i've got i got some pretty good paper here got at least
two inches then once i get all the way around here this two inches of paper i'm going to brush
it off with a brush because then i'm going to use the uh by core to go over this as tight as i can
then come over here so it's an unpenetratable seal not just paper the my core will do it as
dan dan's also going to help me of course jay's on the camera here once we pull this all the way back
here we'll show it to you as as we get going with the membrane because the membrane on this it's
much better to use a peeling stick than just paper okay guys we're done with a nasty job of breakout
something like this you can go for an hour with two guys sometimes you can take 10 hours to do
it all depends on the hardness of the stucco oh what i'm doing now is here's the critical areas
the the metal they have here and the pan metal they have here our i just left this on to prove
a point so i can show you folks our new membrane is going to go underneath this one and on top of
that that's about the most critical the very bottoms just like what we did here
our our membrane is over there flashing that is proper and the the other critical thing is the
tops now we removed all of this uh you see how this paper flaps up okay we're going to put the
membrane here and we're going to bend this corner so all the way here and then we're going to go
underneath this membrane all the way around once we're all the way around we're going to go ahead
and wire it up that's the easy part in the stucco okay guys last thing on a lot is now these corners
these corners got to go on so that they're true and plumb they've got to be true this way meaning
these are my guides for when i put my stucco on and actually on the inside here we have metal
which is one inch thick they want the stucco to come out seven eighths so you try to come out
this way seven eighths and this way this stucco actually here is uh about an inch and a quarter
sometimes you get the fluctuations technically at seven eighths but sometimes it's a little bit more
anyhow i'm using my gun i'm looking at this side bringing it out there looking at this side
bringing it out and we are going to get almost done here we're going to start the cement work
anyhow true and plumb trim plum it always helps to use one solid piece here don't go putting uh
two or three pieces and it just takes too long to use two or three pieces we caulk all our scenes
we caught there we cough here we're ready to go for cement real soon
all right guys now we're doing the first coat of stucco and the product i'm using
it's got accelerators in it because i'm actually going to do both coats today dan is the
a pocket of Timmy he didn't ask me a second ago well
let me show the plaster what am i gonna do i don't know how to work the camera, so i got to do this
any way we are a family of stucco guys this is just the first coat here,
and it's got a lot of center in it within 20 minutes i'm going to stick on that next coat
you get the idea if dan wasn't doing this I'd just be scooping it out of the bucket myself
just like that, that's the first coat
we're killing time now we gotta let that cement harden for about 15 minutes what you guys don't
usually see because i don't point it out is all the different cements we got we
got lots of different buckets of accelerators portland cements and i won't go into it because
there's just so many what i will show you is we've got a gorgeous view here now this view
you say it's a view to dive for look at that we're up on grizzly peak up uh you see the world up here
what does that mean for contractors a nightmare to waterproof houses because when we get a
wind-driven storm with 100 mile an hour winds it just shoves that rain horizontal into roof eaves
windows so you better know what you're doing when you're waterproofing up here of course uh
i've done about 10 homes up here in the last 30 years maybe more a whole bunch on skyline whole
bunch up on grizzly peak you name it tiburon up in the upper hills we do it where the high winds are
okay guys finishing up the second coat and again these inside pieces we're just
leaving an eighth of an inch eighth of an inch where i need a little bit of material
i'm just drilled it out eighth of an inch eighth of an inch this actually takes a lot of practice
i'm i'm more or less doing this to show you how we do it i wouldn't expect anybody
without about eight years experience to try to do this particular stuff here because
these corners got aligned here to here they're off by a quarter inch instead of seven eighths
they're almost inch and a half everything has got to be true plum and level so a lot of eye
work also here's my second coat and now everything is true and plumb what i'm doing is
i'm allowing this stuff to set because i have so many accelerators in it i figured about 20 minutes
and this is going to set now i'm a hard rubber floated and i'm a sponge float all right guys
final taking color code this color code right here is the same color code they used here originally
and it's in santa barbara santa barbara has very little aggregate and if you float it
which they did that's a little bit of aggregate in it it leaves a really really super fine float
finish anyhow that's the spreading of it and then we take a smudge float water bucket that's
all that is just water tap out the majority of water because you leave a lot of water on here i
flick it this way hit it turn it back around hit it inside you don't want to
slam here because then you'll bend your float the wrong way we want to keep this kind of curve
okay now that that's done we hit our joint first just like that feather into the joint
into the joint feather into this particular finish here we take new to the existing just like that
and then we come up and come up okay guys we are done this is what we call a color code over it
and we're just matching the texture so i've spread it out and i take close attention to
the detail of feathering in and feather it in is the uh well it separates the professionals from
homeowners or apprentices you feather in this side's in the sun you'll see it better you take
the existing and you already take the new and you bring it into the existing just like that and
this particular finish doesn't have a whole lot of float lines
you don't see float lines it almost looks like a dash except it's very uniform so we let it set we
go over it a couple of times anyhow that's how you do a door like that my name is kirk i'm with kirk
giordano plastering thank you folks for watching and as usual see you guys on the next one.