What we're gonna do today is build a brand new set of Sarven wheels. This is a commercially
available set of flanges and cores, already turned to adapt to your wheel stand, and already mortised
for your spokes. A Sarven spoke has a top and a bottom, and I mean the top and the bottom as it's
placed on the wheel stand. As we place the spoke on a flat surface, and press down on the wedge
of the spoke, and we'll notice that the tip of the spoke will pick up off of the surface. We're gonna
start alternate assembly into the hub. As we drive each spoke in, you'll notice the change in pitch.
There's a solid sound when the spokes the core. We want a center punch where our rivet
holes are going to be. We want to be on the center of the flange and we're gonna go at
the joint of every other spoke.
Now, let's go ahead and drill our holes
for the rivets. We're going to use a quarter inch, round head, soft iron rivet for these.
After we place our rivets in each of the holes,
we'll trim them to length and then go ahead and take them to the anvil, and with a rivet set,
we'll tighten them up.
We'll peen the rivets over. This will allow us to have a nice round crown to the rivet.
Now to start the process of cutting the tenon's on the spoke, we first need to use a spoke cone
which we'll put a taper on the end of the spoke, which will fit into the tenon auger.
The next step is going to require the use of tenoning auger.
This particular tenon auger allows us to cut tenon's from a half inch to one inch.
Now we're ready to begin the fit of the felloes to the spokes.
This inside diameter of the felloes is what we'll set down on to the shoulders of the spokes.
To measure the holes in the felly we're going to use what is known as a traveler.
A traveler is designed to measure 24 inches in every revolution. our calculation showed us that we need seven and
Our calculation showed us that we need seven and 9/16
between our holes. And we'll do these center to center, so we'll set our pointer
at seven and nine sixteenths on put traveler, with a bold mark, and measure the remaining
and measure the remaining seven holes.
These holes will be spaced at the original seven and nine sixteenths.
Okay, now you want to repeat this procedure to your other felly and then we'll go to the drill press.
We're ready to begin the assembly of the fellies on to the spokes.
Before we start, we need to realize that this belly needs to expand to encompass the outer diameter of the spokes.
While we place pressure in with our hip and then with our left hand we're going to
grab a spoke and exert pressure out on the other end of the felly. While doing this, we're going to
bring in the next spoke into line and bring our felly in just a little more.
And moving down a spoke, we can bring our next spoke in.
I'm about to get er in. We're gonna have to
help this last one a little bit
to bring it in to line
and go ahead
and seat the fellys
to the shoulders of the spokes.
What we need to do is go around and face off
the outside edge of the felly
wherever there might be a spoke protruding
and we want to bring our felly face into flush.
All our spoke joints are up tight.
The space in our fellys
are going to come together as our spokes come up into dish under
the pressure of the tire shrinking onto the wheel. this is where we head to the tire shop
This is where we head to the tire shop.
As we remember, we're going to put rubber tires on this wheel, and so we will use a
and so we'll use a
channel iron in place of a flat iron tire that will accommodate the rubber.
now we'll go ahead and do our preparations for a weld and go ahead and weld the channel together.
This is a roller that will allow us to heat the tire inside the shop.
As we cool this off,
we'll tap around the wheel
and that will help set the joints in the wheel
as the tire tightens.
As we look straight across the face of the wheel, where it intercepts the hub,
we'll see we're right at halfway between the rivet heads and the first ridge on the hub.
Setting the tire, we don't always get a nice, neat alignment,
so here's where we take
and align the two up.
Now what we're going to do is take the sharp corners off of the felly,
put nice round corner and each time we reach the spoke we'll draw that up to a point
so we have a nice finished effect when we're done. here we'll go to the hub boring machine and talk briefly about
From here we'll go to the hub boring machine
and talk briefly about the procedure of the boring of the boxing
and how it is done in relationship to the tire.
We'll first press the boxing down flush with the head flange,
and then notice the boxing
protrudes past the end of the hub core where we bored it for our nut.
This will allow some
clearance for the ridge that is on the face of a buggy nut. this is where we'll install the
This is where we'll install the
rubber tiring onto the wheel. when you size the rubber you do not expand the rubber onto
When you size the rubber, you do not expand the rubber
the wheel you actually compress rubber onto the wheel. now that we were braised
Now that we are braized together and we're cold enough to
to take it off the stand
we'll go ahead and release our jaws.
You can see that we have a space
here that we'll have to work together.
We'll lubricate it a bit
Now due to the compression that is in this rubber,
and the overlap of the rubber when
we initially sized it, will have enough compression in this rubber to come back
we'll have enough compression in this rubber to come back together
and the extra compression from the overlap will keep this joint tight while the
while the wheel is being driven
And do this just by
kind of bouncing it on the floor here
You can see that our joint is together and because of the excess amount of rubber that
and because of the excess amount of rubber that
we put on the wheel initially,
there will be enough pressure on this joint that it will
remain closed while the wheel is being used.
From here we can go back to our wheel stand.
We have now completed our building of a traditional-style Sarven buggy wheel.
Although we have used modern equipment
the art of the wheelwright is the same today as it was 100 years ago