Auto Obsessed here, what does it take to get the max sale price when you're selling your used car
or maybe you just want to get the best detailing results on your daily driven vehicle either way
stay tuned because that's what auto obsess is here for we help detailers get the best results.
We've got a 2011 Porsche Cayenne S here that's going up for sale and has seen some better days
the owner has just given it to us so we can demonstrate how to bring a car up to its best
condition to help it sell faster and get the best sell price first plan of attack for any detail
we'd want to walk around do an inspection and see what the condition of the various parts of the car
are and determine what steps we would need to take for this vehicle it is very
dirty and difficult to get a full idea of the condition despite the obvious that we can see
right now so we will not be able to go over too much in this stage until it is cleaned up some
of the obvious things we can see the wheels are in in rough condition they haven't been washed
in some time so we're going to be dealing with quite a bit of brake dust and grime the paint
protection film is quite old it's yellowed it's dull it's literally two different contrasts of
gloss that's going to make a major difference I can see the cowling has some damage it's sun faded
looking at some of it we can see the b-pillars are scratched up just from people opening and
closing the doors and touching the paint but really overall it's too difficult to get a full
idea just at this stage so what we're going to do is we're just going to move ahead now and we're
going to go into our cleaning process let's do a wash and get the dirt off the car to see exactly
what we'll be working with our method for the first part of the restoration detail is get the
engine bay cleaned up the wheels and the exhaust tips cleaned these are the dirtiest areas and
won't affect our process later versus us cleaning these areas when the rest of the car is clean that
would just end up getting water spray and debris on the parts that we've already finished to clean
the engine bay we're going to use various cleaners and brushes we're using a mild cleaner and various
soft brushes for this engine bay as it's in pretty good condition and not extremely dirty
once all the surfaces have been cleaned we can dry and re-wash areas that might still need attention
before we continue on you can dry with towels but the best and fastest way to dry an engine
is using a touchless air dryer we use the MetroVac master blaster air dryer the dryer
will dry quicker and also reach areas that you couldn't otherwise with towels
the next area we're going to address is the wheels it's a good idea to wash the wheels
before washing the body of the vehicle because the wheels are really the dirtiest part of the car
they touch the road they get covered in road debris and on the European cars lots of brake
dust buildup if we wash them now it'll eliminate the risk of splashing debris over the car
later so let's get these out of the way we'll start with spraying the wheel cleaner on the rims
for this vehicle we'll be using a stronger wheel cleaner that has an iron remover in it to help
remove the brake dust buildup we'll also be using a cleaner on the rubber to remove any of the
silicones and previous wheel dressings that were on there we'll be using various brushes to help
loosen the debris and get into all the areas of the rim the more work we do now will be the less
labor and touch-up we'll have to do afterwards and we also don't want to re-wash the rims later
before we move on we're going to dry these wheels with our master blaster
we don't want the water dribbling out and making water spots later
water accumulates in the corners between the spokes and at the bottom of the lug holes etc.
and the Master Blaster can push that water out of the holes and dry the wheels really really nicely
it also helps minimize some of the rusting on the brake rotors because we're drying them quicker
next up the exhaust tips we can see a little damage and discoloration on the exhaust tips
even without cleaning away the debris and exhaust carbon buildup so it's likely that
these parts aren't going to get perfectly clean because the exhaust tips are already damaged
let's see what we can do with a single stage of polishing soap
this is a very useful soap for exhaust tips because it's mild enough to not damage most
exhaustive finishes but works extremely well and doing a great job of tackling this difficult area
now we move on to the decontamination wash process so we can prepare the car for the next stages
whether that is a paint correction and or to apply a last step product
like a wax a sealant or ceramic coating let's go ahead now and do the decontamination wash
to get a better idea what condition this Porsche Cayenne is in for this case we'll start out with a
pre-washed soap because this vehicle is extremely dirty and has not seen a complete hand wash
and decon for a very long time this stage will help break down the surface contamination
and loosen the debris to make it easier to be removed reducing additional paint damage in our
washing and decon stages plus it'll save us some time by not potentially having to re-wash the
car a few times over to take off the debris after the pre-wash we'll put another coat of snow foam
onto the car this adds more cleaning power and adds a nice lubrication for our hand wash mitt
for the hand wash stage we'll use a two bucket method with grit guards and multiple wash pads
the wash pads collect dirt dust and sand all abrasives from the body of the car and we need
to do our utmost to separate those abrasives from the wash mitt after cleaning a section of the car
the mitt is thoroughly rinsed in the rinse bucket getting rid of the contaminants it picked up
wring it out and plunge it into the shampoo bucket to pick up a new load of sudsy shampoo
the wash starts with the roof and we work down the sides towards the bottom
the bottom is obviously the dirtiest that's where most of the mod and dirt sticks to the car
for that reason we change the wash pads as we get closer to the bottom again all these precautions
are in place to minimize the abrasive action onto the paint we really want to minimize scratches
from the hand wash after the first hand wash and rinse we'll then move on to the chemical decon
process starting with iron removal this will get rid of the embedded iron particles get them out
of the clear coat we can see some rust colored specks in the paint especially on the fenders
behind the wheels and around the back of the car we just spray on the iron remover let it dwell
and then lightly agitate this is a great product in helping us take off this step and it's going
to save us a little bit more time later on moving on to the tar removal process we can see and feel
some tar spots where the asphalt and tar have come up from the road and stuck to the paint
so our next step on our chemical decontamination is to get rid of these specks of tar we're going
to use the tar removal product we're going to spray it on let it dwell and lightly agitate
after we've done the chemical process to remove the iron and tar
we're going to go ahead and rinse the car fully then move on to a mechanical stage
in all cases we may not have to do a mechanical stage but this vehicle has a lot of buildup and
even after doing the first pre-wash hand wash and the chemical process we're still
finding that there's still contamination on the surface so we're going to move on this time with
using detailing clay we're going to use some clay lubricant then we're going to be rubbing
the detailing clay over the surface of the car to pick up any lingering dirt and any remaining
embedded contaminants off of the paint surface now that we've got the clay bar work all done at this
point we've got every bit of dirt and contaminants off of the paint that we possibly can there's one
area we haven't washed yet though the door jambs we've left those until the last because the car
is still wet and we still have to do a full hand wash so we do the jams first and then we're going
to do our last hand wash and then go on to drying now we're going to move on to our last hand wash
we have to do this because we still might have some residues left over from the chemical process
of the iron remover and tar removal also we'll still have some clay lubricant maybe some little
bits of clay and some debris that still could potentially be on the painted surface so we're
going to do one last quick car wash to thoroughly wash the rest of it and get ready for drying
now we finished washing and rinsing the car we're going to go on to our last stage now
and that's drying the car we're going to use the master blaster touchless air dryer
it's a good idea to dry the car if you're not using filtered water
and even if you are using filtered water there's a good chance that water left to dry on the car
is going to leave water spots all over basically killing all of the washing work you just did we
have washed the car and did a full decontamination of the paint now we can get a full understanding
of what we're up against on preparing this car for detailing let's do a walk around and
see what areas stand out and will be the focus of our work we'll start at the front of the car here
one of the biggest things that jumps out is the paint protection film
so the paint protection film would have been installed on this car from day one
it's just a partial partial nose film very very weathered it's definitely had seen better days
and it's time to come off the headlights good news is the headlights were covered it looks
like again from the beginning so all the damage on top is going to come off when we take off the
paint protection film this yellowing is going to disappear we might have to do a light polish
and we'll put new paint protection film on the headlights will look brand new so this will be
a major change to the vehicle once we do this area we will have some challenges here because it was a
partial bra or paint protection film this car is 200 000 kilometers so we are going to have
quite a difference this is going to be no rock chips or sandblasting but here has a lot so this
is going to be a pretty big challenge for us so we'll do the best we can do some paint touch-ups
polish it out and then finish the whole area with full hood full fenders bumper headlights
and that'll that'll smarten it up quite a bit coming around to the side here the wheels are
actually in quite good shape so we've done our cleaning and such in our decontamination wash they
do show signs of typical wear and tear but overall very good so we won't be doing much more to them
other than final details a little bit later on the side here we do have some impact damage some
damage to the plastics we will be doing some correction some paint touch-ups and improve
that up improve that quite a bit the windshield cowling is very very weathered it's it's gray
we'll be able to clean this up re-dye it make it look near pretty much brand new again so that's
going to make a pretty big change we see the same thing on the mirrors we'll be able to do the same
thing here clean it up and re-dye that the mirror caps weren't uh have no paint protection film on
it so it has a lot of rock chips and sand blasting so once again we'll do as much as we can to that
now the entire car is covered in lots of scratches and swirls so we're going to be putting most of
the focus on a paint correction on this car we look at the b pillars the door handle the door
lots of damage here from handling so basically opening and closing the door so here we have
literally gray and black so this is going to be a big area of improvement once we're finished
throughout we have our door marks some some paint missing from gashes and such so once again we'll
clean that up this door same as the front door very very damaged and working our way to the back
here the back of the car this side is quite good one of the biggest things that stands out is the
tail lights tail lights are in great condition they're not cracked or or broken but they're
quite scratched and swirled so just from all the years of handling the car so what we'll do
is we'll polish that we'll make them look near new take a look at the back now we get to the bumper
and the tailpipes so there's really not a lot we're going to be able to do on a detailing aspect
they're they're too far gone and the only way to improve them radically is going to be a full
recondition so repaint and and potentially re-coat the exhaust tip so we're only going to be able to
clean them and we'll prove them as much as we can the badging just over the years there's a lot of
build up in between the badging that we're just not going to be able to detail out so what we'll
do is we'll pull the badging we'll clean the area and we'll be able to polish underneath and then
put the badging back on and that'll make it look a lot better and be a high attention to detail point
so now that we've looked at and done the full inspection of the car we've got a really good
idea where we're going to go and now we can go ahead and prepare the car for our paint correction
that's it for the first video on our prep a used car to maximize the sale price
or if you're looking to refresh your current car series in the next video we're going to totally
take care of the rest of the exterior of this cayenne starting with removing the old paint
protection film from the front of the car a paint correction or multi-stage polishing
including removing and replacing the badging on the rear
polishing the headlights and taillights installing brand new paint protection film to give the best
protection against rock chips and sandblasting damage also preserve the paint for as long as
possible lastly we'll be restoring some of the faded plastic trim around the car it's going to
be a big job but I'm certain the results will shine and blow the owner away. If you'd like to
see more detailing work like this, please take a second to click like on this video and click
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