yep it is time for a new Lightroom video in this video though I'm not going to
edit my own photos I'm going to edit your photos
welcome to my channel here I
talk about photography and I make videos just like this one where I share how I
edit in Lightroom so if you're here for the first time it might be a good idea
to subscribe if you saw this Lightroom tutorial video you will know that last
month I launched a new Lightroom challenge what I was asking you guys to
post your RAW files on Instagram so that I could pick a few photographs and make
a video while editing them well this is that video and before going into
Lightroom I would like to say thank you for posting your images and a special
thanks goes to those of you that I contacted and sent me their raw files so I
can actually make this video ok enough thanking let's get started and here we
are in Lightroom this is the image I picked to edit this image is by Chris
Colyer I hope I'm pronouncing his name correctly and I decided to use this
image because I wanted to use the opportunity of this video to show you
how I edit long exposure photography images and
this is perfect as a matter of fact Chris used a 544 seconds shutter speed
an aperture of f11 and an ISO of 200 so 544 seconds shutter speed give us the
potential of encounter all the problems of a very long exposure let's stop
talking and let's start editing I'm of course in the develop module and I will
start by opening the crop and straighten panel and the very first thing of course
I want to do is to make sure that my horizon is perfectly straighten
and the next thing I want to do in this panel is deciding what is the best
aspect ratio for this image and in my opinion the aspect ratio of sixteen by
nine is perfect for this image and I think it looks pretty good
let's open out the basic panel and looking at the histogram I can see that
I possibly can open up this image a little bit and if I hold the shift key
and double click on whites I can extend the histogram all the way to the right
in order to have the entire dynamic range available in this image I will do
the same thing hold Shift key double click on blacks in order to move the
image as much as possible to the left as well and what I'm going to do as well is
that I am going to lower the highlights a little bit maybe I went a little too
far and I will open up the shadows a tiny bit as well I think that the
exposure and the contrast are fine I will increase the clarity just a tiny
bit I will not touch the Dehaze in this case and of course I will give a little
bit of vibrance and a little bit of saturation let me stop right here one
second just to tell you that if you don't remember how every single Lightroom
slider is going to affect the image I will encourage you to go and
check out my Lightroom mini series beginner course that I did some weeks
ago everything is in there and let's open the tone curve here
I might push down the shadows a little bit push up the highlights a little bit
and I want to give a a little different look by opening the blacks a tiny bit
and let's see how it looks with and without this adjustment very subtle
difference I think I like it now I will skip the HSL panel and go
into the split toning in the split toning what I want to try to achieve is
to emphasize this sunset look and I will do so by adding a little bit of
color into the highlights
and in the shadows instead I will add a little bit of blue tone before and after
yeah subtle changes that will make the
difference in the end let's open the details and in the details I can see
where we start to have problems caused by the very long exposure you can see
these dots colored dots everywhere these are called the hot pixels and the hot
pixels are usually caused by the sensor in a very long exposure like this when
basically the sensor gets really warm the camera gets very warm because is
working for a very extended amount of time and this is the result it's nasty
so we'll do something here in the detail panel but I don't think it's gonna be
enough we might need to do something else in Photoshop for now I will
decrease the sharpening to a minimum of ten eleven twelve and I will decrease
the radius of this sharpening I will increase the the details and I'm always
keeping an eye into this very zoomed image to see how my adjustments are
affecting the hot pixels I'm going back to the full image by clicking on Z I
will hold the option key move the masking slider to the right in order to
decide what I want to be affected by the sharpening I can see that those hot
pixels are going to be affected unless I go to 100 that
i'ma need to do something like this like masking most of the image so everything
that stays white is going to be affected all the black it's not gonna be touched
by the sharpening I will zoom in again and I might add a little bit of noise
reduction increasing the luminance a tiny bit I can also move the slider the
color slider to the right as much as I can and I can see that somehow the hot
pixels are reduced compared to before you can see how big and crazy they are
if I'm not touching the slider so I will go all the way to the right let me see
unfortunately they are still there so definitely I will need to finish this
edit in photoshop and I will show you a very quick tool that will take care of
these hot pixels when I imported this image I made sure that the remove chromatic
aberration and enable profile Corrections were already taken care of
so nothing to do here what I will do here instead is that in the effects
panel I want to add a little bit of vignetting and I usually like to add a - 7
- 8 vignetting the midpoint all the way to zero the roundness may be here
and I like to work with the feather quite a bit you can see that without the
feather you will have this funky round which we don't want to see of course
this is basically done as far as as it concerns the general adjustments what I
want to do right now instead is going into some local adjustment the very
first one is the graduated filter I will drag down from the top holding the shift
key in order to keep it parallel to the horizon and here I just want to decrease
the highlights and I want to increase a little bit the contrast may be a little
bit of saturation and also I might want to add a little bit of color and let's
see how it's going to look yeah this can work
maybe this is even better I want to I have a little darker just to create a
more moody image I will add a new graduated filter this time is going to
come from the bottom I might actually need to have a little bit of a tilt in
this case and here instead I want to increase the shadows a little bit not
too much maybe also the whites I will increase the clarity and I will increase
the saturation I also want to see how it's going to look if I add a little bit
of orange maybe it is too much so I will move it
19% maybe a little less and of course even in this case I can see how it looks
with or without these adjustments and we can see that these local adjustments are
making a very big difference to the mood of the entire image something else that
I like to take care of that the sea is a little dark for my
taste I want to give this a ethereal look to the water and I want to make it
a little brighter so I will need to use the brush tool and I will use the mask
overlay to see exactly if I'm able to affect the right area of this image and
I will just paint until the entire area that I want to be affected will be
actually red
and now that I am somehow happy of my selection I will toggle off the mask
overlay and start increasing the shadows and also increasing the exposure and I
can see that my selection wasn't that precise so I will need to work at it a
little better in order to have a more consistent result so it will take me
some time
so I'm a little happier now I only think that the sky is too bright still too
bright and I will increase the contrast I might add a little bit of
dehaze and maybe this is done so let's see the before and after clearly a big
difference I'm not sure this is the mood that Chris was searching for but this is
what I saw now the last thing we need to do is to
bring this image in Photoshop because as you can see the pixels are still there
even if we bright and the water quite a bit so right click Edit in Photoshop and
and here in Photoshop the first thing I will do is that with command J I will
create a new layer I will zoom in a 100% in order to be able to see very well the
hot pixels and clearly you see them I will open filter noise dust and
scratches and here is where the magic will happen as a matter of fact
with a radius of 2 or 3 pixels and the threshold of 25 in this case the pixels
are gone if I move the threshold at 255 nothing basically is touched and the
trick here is to move the threshold to the left until all your hot pixels are
gone the radius you don't want to go too crazy with the number here the lower the
number the better it is because if you go with the higher number you will lose
a lot of details from your image and now I can just save my image and the
image will be saved automatically with this adjustment in Lightroom again once
the image is saved back to Lightroom from Photoshop I will see that it will
be saved with the extension of a Tif file and again I'm pretty
happy with with the result and this is the after what do you think and this is
all for today I hope you enjoyed this video I hope you learnt something new
and I hope you will let me know so hit that like button leave me a comment and
if you didn't yet maybe this is the right time to subscribe thanks for
watching and I will see you in the next video