So this time what I want to show you is how we go about
Positioning our wall plates and then marking them out, so we're ready to construct our walls
So in this example. I'm going to use a slab
But it could as easily be a bearers and joist
floor that, we're working on
So the first thing we need to do is we need to make sure
We need to mark out where our walls are going to go on our slab
Some people may construct there walls straight off the plan
And it works if you've got a bit of experience in it
but the the foolproof way of doing it is to actually mark it all the way up on the actual job first and
Then work from that and that way you shouldn't stuff anything up. If you work off the plan
Quite often the plans differ to what's on the actual job site, so there are always some
Opportunities for mistakes so best thing to do is actually flick it out or mark it out on the job site
So the first thing I'd do especially with a slab that I had nothing to do with constructing is
Run my tape over it and just check that it's actually the right dimensions you may find that the concretors have
Made a few mistakes, and you may need to compensate for those mistakes
so if you know for example if
their slab is a little bit under sized
you may have to actually position the wall plates they overhang the edge of the slab a little bit
generally anything more than 20mm not acceptable
But if it's only 5, 10mm, then you can get away with it
also, they may have
made the slab to big or it may have bowed under the weight of the concrete and you
may just have to centre the wall frames up on the slab so always a good idea to run the tape over it first and
make sure that it's
Close to the mark
The next thing I would do then is I you need to establish the longest
straight line the longest wall you can find which is generally one of the external ones and
Get a nice long straight line down that wall
once you've got that you can then
Flick out a line at 90 degrees to it
Now once again in the perfect world the slab will be square
But you can't always trust it so I always use Pythagoras or a 3-4-5 triangle
To establish square on these to, the first two lines
and once I put the first two lines done I can then just measure off parallel
to get the rest of my walls, so
This is a pretty simple plan for this video
As you can see if I if I got the position of this line, and I had this at 90 degrees
Then all I have to do is measure
parallel
measurements
down and then I can flicked that line measure my wall width flick that line measure parallel down to here and
I'd try where I could can to use overall measurements to measure from here down to this wall
just to make sure everything was working as far as the plans go and
Same every all these measurements coming off this line to here
and
You can see that. There's my plan
So I can use the measurements off a plan to establish all that
The next thing to do is then we need to lay out the position of our wall plates
so
Generally, we consider 6m to be the longest length of timber we can get
so we need to think where we're going to join our wall plates, so
Intersections are always good. It's a good strong place to join our plates
Well, we definitely want to avoid windows, and we definitely want to avoid doorways
so we need to think let's see that's
5.2, so it's under 6 so we could go from there to there. We then need to get in between
The door and the window there or we could go between these two windows with a plate
Either one of them would work
because that measurements going to be
It definitely be under 6
And once again this way we could join on that intersection there
We could join
that intersection
And once again on this side, we're going to have 6, one length to there and somewhere in here. We could join on that intersection
This way we're going to have to join in the middle of the wall
So you just need to plan where your plates are going to go, so we go back to our
Building and we can put a plate there
So it's going to join a that wall intersection
Put a plate there, so that should join between the door and one of the windows
And obviously it's going to run out across to the end then
similar at the back
On this side that one doesn't particularly matter you can join anywhere that one's going to join to that intersection
this one here. I've just done the same as what I've done there so a bit of repetition
Could have joined it there for wished
and
Those two are just full lengths and a full length in between so I should lay them out on the job site
Make sure they're cut so they fit in nice and tight, and they're all on the lines that are on the slab
Then we can go around and from our timber we can actually mark out our
intersections
So I've gone round now and all their intersections have been marked out. I'll show you what that looks like, so
The way the intersections work is that
The wall that's running past. Which is this wall
It's two studs, one on the corner
Which if you're going to do a brick veneer house. It's really not necessary, but if you're going to do a
Timber clad or a fibro or weatherboard house then just need to have that stud on the corner obviously
we then have a
stud here on the end of this wall and
Another stud here, which picks up the Gyprock on the inside and we end up a little gap in here now
Depending on the size of your framing material
That could be if using 90 x 45 that'll be a 45mm gap. So you can just put a piece of timber in there
a standard bit of framing material goes in there if this your stud or your framing materials 35mm thick
then you're going to have to
Cut a special piece to go in there, but you need to try some blocking into that
Cluster just to hold it together and it also gives somewhere, and we nail this wall in
somewhere to nail to
That's a corner intersection in a corner stud cluster
We go down to an internal wall
You can see here now this plate ends here. It's going to have one stud on the end
This plate from our internal wall it also ends here. It's going to once that on in this
One here the one that's running past is going to have one here which will pick up this internal corner
and it's going to have a couple of blocks here for us to nail to
So that'll look like that one
So when we stand this wall up we can nail it through into those blocks
this will here nails into the blocks as well and
That stud there is just there to pick up that internal corner
and
when it comes to a straight run all we have is two studs
together one on at the end of each wall which when we construct the wall we can just nail straight through and
Tie our walls together
So we go around the entire job and we mark out, Sorry we mark out
our
intersections
Next thing then is to mark out our windows so we go back to our plan you
can see here in the middle of this room I've got a window
Couple over here one up here
All the way around there, so we'll concentrate on these two these two are in line. So we'll concentrate on those two first
so it's actually in the middle of the room or what I can do is I can measure my
1850 and then half of my 1710 and we can work out where the center line the window is
That's the center line of my window. I'll then need to work out how far apart
my studs need to be now you should have on your plan
Or if you don't have it on your plan you can get it from your window
supplier, a
Window schedule which looks a bit like this
This has a whole range of sizes because this is a generic one from the manufacturer
So all you have to do is find the window. That
applies for the one you're looking at and what
It will have is
in this list here it has a
reveal or stud opening size
Okay, this one's got two choices that see they've got
revealed aluminium or
other
So a couple of things with windows. Let's have a look at this one here
I don't know how well you'll read this on the video, but this is SW1015
So that means it's a sliding window
it means it's o1m high it always gives a height first and
Then 1.5m or 1.5m wide
That's just a generic sort of standard a way of expressing the size of the window however
Even though it says 1.5 wide if we go to the top of the page here this tells us that the frame size is actually
1.570m
And that the stud opening should be for revealed aluminium
1.626m
So if we had a just gone with our 1.5 we'd have an opening it was too small
It also does the same thing over here for the height
The height of Window when we come to do that
So just remember when we talking about window sizes as always expressed as a four-digit number
The first two digits are the height
and case [10
Which refers to 1m and the second two digits in this case 15 which refers to 1.5m
Gives us the width of the window, but they are not the actual size of our openings
You nee] to check with that so in this case
our stud opening is going to be 1.626m, so lets go back
and we can put in
the stud opening measure half of that either way and
We can position our first
set of Jamb studs
and we have to go around and do that for all our windows
so, yeah, window there there there there there and there we've done the same thing position the
Jamb studs at the stipulated stud opening
We also have to do the same for our doors
well sorry for that what we should do is actually mark that as our window it will just save on a
Heap of Confusion [hang on a second why isn't it]
[There we go], so we mark
That that's actually a window
And I will just drw that arrow in so that we know from that stud to that stud that's our actual window
Now I'm going to put extra marks in there later
But so we know you need to know that's in the area of our window. We need to do it doors as well
So this case I've got a door here
Which is a fairly large door, so I'm going to treat that more like a window and then I've got
doors internally as well
And we need to mark them
Just something to note my personal preference
we already had this study here as
part of our intersection
You could use that as your door stud
The door jamb stud and just make your opening from here
to here however
What I find, especially when you're using 35mm thick studs is
That the time you get your Gyprock on this wall and then try and put a piece of architrave
around your door jamb
you don't end up with a lot of room in this corner, so I prefer to stick a
second stud here used to be just that little bit more room to play with when I come to my fix
So I actually put a second stud on there and then put in my door with and you can see I've done that
pretty much
Yeah, put it there done it in everywhere that I've got a door
In a corner I've put that second study in the corner just to get one architrave away from the corner
Just makes it a better job in the end
personal Preference not a must
So mark them as doors as well
and
doing that for all our doors
and got a door here
now in a lot of cases because these
Windows and the this wider door are going to have a lintel above
them to carry the load around the opening they need more than one stud that support the lintel that's
shown by the Timber framing code or whoever has designed your wall frame
so in this case these
narrower windows are going to end up with two studs
either side and
I've done the same for this wider doorway and
In some cases the wider windows will actually need
three studs either side so
That you just need to know how many studs you need
So one of these studs will run the full height of the wall and these two studs here
will actually run up underneath the lintel and support the load from the lintel
So once we've marked our windows and doors. We then need to just fill in all the blank spaces that are bigger than our
standard spacing so in this case
I've got studs at 600 centers or I want studs and 600 centers the other standard spacing is
450mm centers
So whichever one you're working with we just go through and we fill in the position of those
So notice I've also gone underneath my windows as well because we want to have
Jack studs underneath the windows and it's easier to mark it out now in then to mark it out later
Got all right up along these walls
basically anywhere that I had a blank bit of plate that was bigger than our spacing 600 in this case I've
marked
for a stud
and that's it our plates are all marked for our bottom plate, so I'll mark obviously the next step is to grab
Whatever wall you're going to build
Take the plate
grab a
second piece of timber the same length, which will become
the top plate and
Transfer the marks
Over onto it
And that's it once you've done that you're ready to start
Cutting your studs and constructing the wall frame and the sequence of constructing a wall frame is
Actually shown in[another video
which I called
Wall frame components and construction sequence so you can have a look at that one