Reloading these solid brass 10 gauge shotgun shells can be an easy job.
Let me show you how I do it.
Brass shotgun shells of all gauges were in common use
from the late 19th century until World War 2.
These shells were pretty dirty, but I cleaned them up earlier.
To reload them I'm using some original loading tools including a deprimer or decapper
a capper or priming tool an adjustable powder and shot measure
a wide guide and a ram
I'll also need reloading components, primers, powder, shot,
wads, and a bit of glue to hold the top wad in place.
It's important to note that brass shotgun shells
were designed for three different types of primers.
This shell requires a Berdan type primer where the anvil is built into the case.
This one uses a shotgun type primer and the shells
I'm reloading today are designed for a standard large pistol primer.
Brass shotgun shells come in various lengths.
I've cast the chambers of my old Parker shotgun
and measured the castings to determine the length of the chambers.
which is about two and five-eighths inches.
Next, I'll trim the cases to the correct length
using a trim die that we made here in the shop.
Then deburr them.
I need to make sure they'll fit in the chambers some do and some don't.
For those that won't chamber,
I'll lubricate and size them in a shop-made sizing die.
After the cases are trimmed and sized
I wipe off all of the excess lubricant and now they all chamber perfectly.
This is an original capping tool
and I use it to squeeze the large pistol primer into the
primer pocket till it's just below flush.
An adjustable dipper will measure both powder and shot.
The black powder is scooped and poured in
three and a quarter grams
These loads will be very mild.
Then the over powder wad is added and I press it firmly in place.
The cushion wad is next it acts like a shock absorber for the shot
and keeps it round for truer flight.
Next, I'll use a shot charge of 1-1/ 8 oz
again for a very mild load in the 10 gauge.
Followed by the overshot wad which I press into place.
In this instance I'm using 9ga. wads by Circle Fly
Which is correct for thin-walled 10 gauge brass cases.
Here is a cutaway of what the powder
overshot wad
cushion wad
shot and overshot wad
looked like inside the case.
Now the factories would have filled the case to the top with wads
and crimp the end of the case to hold the overshot wad.
But when reloading we don't fill the case to the top
and use an old-fashioned glue called water glass.
I can also use duco cement, paraffin, or flex tight arrow fetching cement
to hold the top wad in place
a small quantity around the edge of the wad is fine
and it sets up within a few hours.
Now I can go shooting.