hey everyone welcome to well.com today we're doing episode 4 of the kubota bucket build
i wasn't going to fix the header that's what it's about it's fixing
the header it was all bent up but everyone's been griping and stuff
but now you guys persuaded me i'm going to do it all right i'm just playing around about the
griping thing so we're going to get into it and we're going to fix the header part
this is basically the header of the tractor or the bucket so i was talking to rippy154 from instagram
he said the most of the beating or most abuses right here what's what takes it is this header
right here on the bucket so uh so we're going to go ahead and fix this he's the one that basically
changed changed my decision and also you guys do but we're going to cut this out right here
this bad piece and replace this piece but first we're going to support these sides i don't want
these sides to collapse in or anything uh so we're going to definitely remain our measure or keep our
measurements we have to keep our measurements then after that got rid of that stuff we're
gonna clean up our clean up our crap or uh yeah clean up our whatever excess metal from plasma
cutting then we're gonna either put a square tubing here or an angle i'm not just i'm not
completely decided yet then i want to put a piece of flat plate right here all right you
have to stick around and find out what i'm using a square tubing or a piece of angle all right
all right so let's talk about what type of wire i'm going to be using so i'm going to be using
a select arc that's the brand i'm going to be using o35 er 70s6 that's for car carbon steel
i'm going to be running on the bolts i'm going to be running about 18.5 and 19
a wire fee speed about 200 250. i like to run really hot when i'm tacking stuff in place because
i like to tap it around and kind of tweak it into like a the perfect measurement you want to say
so if you tag cold it'll bust off loose and you'll get all mad and you gotta reclaim your attack
and stuff but anyways i run 75-25 because i i get less spattering i think it runs the best on 75.25
and we're going to be running off the rebel 235 so yeah so let me throw this up in here and i'll show
you guys how to do this really quick we're going to be using v-groove drive rolls all right you got
to use that on hardened wire when i cut this out i don't want this to move so i'm using a piece of
square tubing i don't use a flat bar because flat bar flimsy if you guys don't know what
square tubing is this is more is right here square tubing is pretty strong so i'm just going to put
this up here kind of close to this because i don't want these sides to move out or move in all right
so today actually my lucky day because i just picked this out of the scrap pile
and just put it up here i didn't even pull a measurement or nothing on the piece
i put a measurement in here but i pull measurement on this so yeah that's that's basically about
it we're going to put a couple big fat tacks right here uh so we don't so we don't lose our
measurement when we cut this out right fast and easy i'm running about 90 psi i got a regulator
back here so we're going to be running we're going to be cutting about 3 16 material so i'm just
going to max this out this is the this is the esop cup master 40. so yeah this is the plasma and this
is the type of consumables i'm using right here all right i don't know where my drag cup's at i
mean uh yeah my drag cup so we're going to kind of freehand this a little bit and plus i got a little
side plate i can rest this on how i know what to do what i'm looking for so here this is what
we're going to be looking for or this is what i'm looking for so i know i got to keep these pieces
right here because the uh the bucket lift arms go right here so i don't want to destroy these
so i know this is bad and i know this is bad so you kind of just follow this along this
weld right here and right here we're not going to plasma cut this so i want to be accurate
because i want to have a piece i'm going to have a piece that's going to look like this
it's going to match up to this cut we just did all right we want to try to keep our cut
nice and straight with no gaps because it's going to be hard to weld because it's just going to make
it harder to weld gaps on there so that's what i'm doing and this is what i'm looking for all right
basically i've got a straight edge right here so i could cut nice and accurate
so i'm just going to keep the cutoff wheel right against that and it will keep me
basically almost straight um so what we're going to look for what i'm looking for
is i don't have a break here and also that really don't matter because i'm not taking this piece out
so i'm going to look see where this brake line's at or they broke it in the machine so i'm going to
cut a little bit before that all right because i'm going that's where i want to put the other piece
to i'm going to meet up against it and we're going to weld that out and probably grind that flush
and where you can't tell all right we're going to put that piece right against that line
i'm going to measure about a quarter inch back from this all right so all this is a low angle
i made sure it was straight and everything because it's only eighth inch thick all i'm doing is you
use stainless carbon steel this is the first i dug for a while this is the only thing i've seen
you really want to keep your measurements pretty much perfect on this this matters a lot
all i'm going to do is put attack here put three tacks total i'm gonna put attack here
check my measurement again and put another attack in the middle and work my way down
these tacks look pretty shitty but i'm not worried about them because this piece goes
away and all we're doing is holding this brace on so i basically just tack on top of
paint and it kind of burned away a little bit or burned away once the puddle got so hot right so
don't be judging about the tacks because all it is is a piece of junk plate all right so the
first wheel i'm using was a cut off wheel a wider cutoff wheel is for carpenter stainless and the
second one this is going to be my approach i'm grinding so since we cut that apart i'm trying
to clamp draws i'll just use a regular buffing pad but we got a little bit of meat to remove
i left on there so i usually take the hard rock right here it's quarter inch hard rock and i
approach it and i kind of get it all the way down right where the um or the meat
of the weld i mean meat of the old well is like right about touch the good base metal all right
you don't want to touch this wheel on the basement because you're going to leave deep gouges in when
you leave deep gouges in and you're going to paint well them gouges are going to show through the
paint job because the paint goes into that uh into the low surface basically the scratches are lower
than the base metal so once that's right about touch the base metal i switch over to the 60 grit
and i then i kind of start blending this in if you look at this right here this is a flat flat wheel
so if it's flat i know i'm going to be holding as flat as possible and keep my surface true and
flat the whole time when i'm while i'm taking that and blending that weld down all right so this is
my way uh you could do whatever way you want but this is the way i'm doing it and also when you go
buy a wheel see how thick this flap flap disc is but you want to get thicker all right don't get
something real thin all right it won't last as long i'm going to be using cut off wheel because
i'm more accurate with the cut off wheel and this one's really thin it's one millimeter thick
it's uh thinner than the kerf of that plasma that curve of that plasma is about eighth inch thick uh
so i'm basically meeting up the new piece with the old piece right here and i want it completely like
fit and perfect i don't want to be welding big gaps i don't want to spend all day on this i want
to be done done like fast i want to get done with this and move on to my other another job of this
i mean another job so uh yeah i mean you could do it this way you could do it the other way
it doesn't really matter which way you do it as long as you get the job done at the end of the day
so basically what i'm using is a tiger zerk from wyler and a metabo
grinder that's all i'm doing and i'm putting this cough wheel right against the straight edge
it'll help help me guide me and keep me perfect much as perfect as i can
the only mess up i will is if i don't keep the grinder straight all right so i'll have
to get the plasma right here because i can't get in there i'll have to get the plasma and
kind of shape that out because this guard is too big i don't want to take the guard off
we dropped this piece out after we cut it so i left a little bit
a little bit a lot of meat right here because i didn't want to cut into my piece because i rather
leave a little extra meat there than trim it back with a plasma like you've seen me doing this all
right it might be a little extra work but it's only a couple minutes longer it's better than
welding this up a little bit and grinding it flat so i got it right here uh removed a little
bit skimmed it down a little bit more and skimmed this down all right the reason i did it that way
because i don't want to sit there and grind for extra 15 minutes everyone hates freaking grinding
so right now i'm going to go ahead and clean this up with a hard rock then i'm going to go ahead and
switch over to a flap and flap this like a 80 grit all right so all i'm doing is starting right here
and working a little bit at a time until it almost touches like you kind of sometimes you can see you
will almost touch this and when you see that we'll touch that get the heck off that spot
and move on another thicker spot with this all right i don't work this whole thing because it's
counterproductive all right it's easier just work one little spot at a time and work your way back
i don't like moving forward because i can't really see what i'm doing moving forward so i move back
and look i pay attention right on the edge of my wheel i pay attention like a quarter inch
of it like quarter inch quarter inch in front of it and when i move back i just kind of pay
attention to uh where is it making sure i don't dig into this base metal with the hard rock all
right and then when it almost touches that i flip over to a uh i'm flipping over to a flap
disc 80 grit then i'm going to sit there and blend this in hold it flat as possible
all right you want to keep that wheel flat as possible so um you won't dig into that dig into
your uh good metal right here you get like a bmr base metal reduction we're going to clean
clean it up on both sides and we're going to clean up on the back where we cut with a cut off wheel
we're going to clean that up and get rid of the burr and get rid of that paint so we can weld
you'll see how the ones like spaced apart it has less of these and like this one has got a lot of
them and the wires are a little bit softer on this rough neck it'll actually bite in there
and dig in there good and it actually will deburr it you'll see on the other side you don't have to
take a grinding wheel it's the extra step you have to do all right and you're also you're not
removing metal with this you're not you're just removing the rust the paint and deburring it
so for all the people that don't know and other people probably do know the reason we
got this all cleaned up removed all the paint because we can't bite in good through the paint
uh it creates porosity or we can't bite into the paint excuse me it creates porosity you can
start burning it off but it's not a good weld you want to make sure you're doing a good sound weld
i don't want to crack something crack this crack over time and i have to fix it later all right
i want to look good when i'm done and do it once if you want to do it once not twice remember that
i basically just removed the paint about half inch to three eighths back from where we're going
to fit the plate up and weld um so when you're doing this uh just go back and check your work you
always want to check your work all right and uh that's this this is the reason i like using them
widely stringer beads the roughnecks the ones with a lot of wires they're different from like a cup
cups are a little bit different um unless you get the one with a lot of wires just like it like this
avoids you a couple steps look there's no birds at all i'm rubbing my hand down this nothing it's
nice and smooth like a baby's butt it's good yeah i mean when you're adding a buffing pad you're
inducing scratches well same thing when you have core scratches and you got to take them out and
you're adding more steps to your work this i don't have to i don't have to take the scratches out all
i gotta do is sand the whole bucket lightly and throw paint on it all right this saves you a lot
more steps i think with that type of wire wheel on the header i kind of decided or i decided
finally is i'm going to use a 2 by 4 square tubing carbon steel it's going to be about 3 3 16 thick
um tightened attachments online they're using eighth inch so we had this laying around so i'm
using 3 16. this old piece we cut out from here to here with six and three quarters that was the old
piece i measured it over there so all we're going to do is we can see where the old piece laid so
i'm gonna go six and three quarters mark it right here all right then i'm going to take a square
we're going to kind of draw a line right there and we're going to start the front let's start
the tube right there and we're going to go back the tube's 4 inches long so we're going to go back
4 inches all right so the tube is going gonna be laid right here
you can't really see it but this is where the tube is gonna lay it's gonna lay straight across of it
all right so we're gonna go ahead and cut that to size and tack it up here
i had this tube up here flush i didn't like it so i'm recessing this down a quarter
inch so i'm going to finish dimming this
and finish them in this side and we're just going to tack it in place and leave it how it is
this is a piece of scrap um we just found this laying around yeah she's pretty bow
legged she'll do those still she's all right so um so our measurements on the tractor i took
was uh it's 2 and 7 16 that's the width and the length is 48 and 7 16. so what we're going to do
is basically work off a good edge you always want to work off a good edge good cut so this still
has this factory edge all right so we're going to pull off that we're going to pull our 2 and 7 16
uh pull that pull that mark it cut it and also our four and a half 48 and a half we're going
to cut it and mark it but we're going to do this all by hand with the plasma
some someone asked hey mike can you do this with a
hand plasma i've never done it before so we're all doing it off that little cup master 40 esop
so i cut my piece a little bit long uh you can see my soapstone a little bit showing here so i'm
going to go ahead and straighten this cut out and bring it in to where it's straight and it's within
the two and six two and seven sixteenths all right i want it a little bit shorter than two and a half
because it measures two and a half up there i'm going to be using this uh tiger zerk wheel hard
rock quarter inch and we're just going to clean up the side with it and get get it straightened out
then i'm going to flip over to a flat disc uh 80 grit and just hit this bottom edge to get all that
dross off all right we can't weld on top of that dross or that outside layer we'll get porosity
here's a little quick tip for you guys so you set your square 2 and 7 16 and you didn't cut
this straight i got a couple bad spots so you set this at two and seven sixteenths make sure
your soapstone's grinded good and you come down here and hold that and you just kind of
go down here and look for where it's high at where it's high i mean where it's long you just
kind of mark it with your soapstone let's check our measurements so we've got 2 and 7 16 there
i mean that's pretty good you guys can see that 2 and 7 16 2 and 7 16 i'm just picking random spots
2 and seven sixteenths man i'm good all right that's why that straight edge helps you out
and doing that little square i was showing you and dragging it down
so that's pretty good doing it by hand we're gonna go over there and dry fit it
and uh there's a couple of spots i already know i gotta clean up i left long as i set the piece of
metal in there by using these magnets right here just holding up i had about five or six in there
and i got that set in place looked at everything uh look at the fit
then i kind of uh was having problems at first trying to manipulate the bottom and top of the
plate all right then i kind of thought of this i'll just i use this as like a little wedge and i
just wedged the just started wedging it down right here all the way down and put tacks right there
until you know me until this was flush and until this matched my line i basically draw a line drew
a line as a guide then i kept rechecking with my square i set my depth of my square where i first
started liking it how it sat in where i attacked it then i just kind of worked
my way down back and forth and um then when i got about a foot from the end
i just i noticed it was too tight it wasn't coming up to your line to my line so there was only one
way basically fix it i mean two ways either take the whole piece out and i didn't want to do that
so i just took the plasma and cut off wheel and cut a gap in there so i could have clearance to
pop back up so uh i got that as soon as i did that i cleaned it up with wire wheel
and i just and then wedged it back and it just popped right back up and i liked it i tacked it
all in place and i'm happy with it so right now we're going to go ahead and weld this bad boy out
felt pretty good everything went smooth didn't have no problem burned and go
um on this top part right here on the outer side it was humping up in one area right here so
if the weld don't have nowhere to go and it's just sitting on flat metal it kind of humps up so
i took a grinder but you could use an eighth inch wheel or a
quarter inch hard rock um and uh basically groove it a little bit and that weld will sit down
a little bit and look i mean it will sit down and look uniform and look pretty
so i did that all on that bottom plate right here so it'll really look good that's a good little
tip right there and i just work jumped around you want to jump around wire wheeled everything
got the bb's off and did the same stuff inside and yeah i mean everything went good love it
all right everyone that wraps up the kubota bucket i'm gonna take it home and paint it
thanks for watching i appreciate it make sure you guys subscribe like and drop a comment below we
like everyone's ideals even movie ideals because we're running out some uh make sure you guys uh
give this a thumbs up for sure all right i'll see you guys next time learning is key i'm man cup