Hand checkering is a fascinating process requiring just a few simple tools,
let's take a look at each of them and how to use them. In its original and most basic form,
checkering is simply a series of lightly cut parallel lines. They are crossed at about
a 30-degree angle by another group of similar lines which creates the diamond shape. Checkering
patterns are typically placed on the grip and forend of rifles and shotguns and on the grips of
a handgun. Checkerings' main function is to help securely hold a gun at the same time it should be
attractive. Hand-cutting checkering requires only a few specialized tools, one of the most critical
is the checkering cradle. It holds the stock securely while allowing it to be rotated. The
first step in checkering is to locate the panels. A China marker or a very fine felt tip pen works
well for this. I use a checkering guide to lay out the master lines. The guide is diamond-shaped
and depending on the end selected will create diamonds that are either three times as long
as they are wide or three and a half times as long. Once I'm happy with the way the checkering
panels look a layout guide is used to maintain an even margin. It's a simple spacing tool which
can be set to mark a line along the edge of a stock. Next the outline of the pattern is cut
with a 60-degree single line cutter. This tool is generally available with a sixty or a 90-degree
profile. The 60-degree cutter has a steeper angle and more easily follows the marked line.
Cutting a line slightly deeper than a ninety-degree cutter.
Cutters come in two different styles of cutting edges saw type and file type.
A saw type cuts on both the push and the pull stroke, while the file type cuts
only in one direction. It's a matter of personal preference as to which one to use. For this stock,
I'm using a file type cutter set up to cut on the push stroke. Next,
I create the master lines with the scribe. This is a sharp, pointed tool,
which scratches a very fine line on the surface of the stock. The scribe is often used with the
flexible straight edge to ensure that the lines are perfectly straight along their entire length.
After cutting and deepening the master line with the 60-degree cutter, the checkering pattern is
ready to be spaced out. Spacing cutters come in both file type and saw type and range from 16
to 32 lines per inch. A spacer can be as simple as two cutting edges side by side or have up to four.
Some spacing tools have edges that don't have teeth,
the smooth edge simply follows the lines that have already been cut
without deepening them. They are available to cut from right to left or left to right.
There are also cutters called skip line spacers, these cutters are used to layout a pattern like
on this Weatherby Mark 5. Every few lines are cut with the skip line spacer. Extending the
end of the lines is done with the 60-degree cutter. The 60-degree short cutter is used
at the very end of the lines, next to the edge of the pattern. I use a technique called hook
and pull. This short cutter is set up to cut on the pull stroke it's engaged at the end of
the line and pulled back into the pattern, this technique helps to prevent overruns.
Another critical tool is this magnifying visor it
brings everything closer and makes it easier to cut straight lines.
With the light set at a slight angle to create a shadow in the lines, the checkering is easier to
see than with direct overhead lighting. Extremely short lines can be cut with a 60-degree Vayner,
it's a small v-shaped chisel which gets into places that a regular cutter can't.
Once all of the lines in the pattern are laid out, they need to be deepened. The first pass
is made with the 60-degree cutter. Its sharp cutting angle easily follows the layout lines,
again when I get close to the border I switch to a 60-degree short cutter and
use the hook and pull method to keep from cutting outside the pattern. The lines
that are too short for the short cutter are deepened with the 60-degree Vayner.
The 90-degree single line cutter is used to finish the checkering.
Its wider cutting edge points up the individual diamonds.
I make two passes in each line, a light first pass, followed by a heavier second one. Again
the standard cutter is used for most of the work while the short cutter is used for corners
and tight places. A small brush cleans out the sawdust. After all the diamonds are pointed the
last step is cutting a border. Borders can be as simple as an extra line around the pattern
or have a traditional convex shape. They can also be concave which is referred to as Mullard.
Each shape requires a different cutter. On this stock I'm cutting a traditional convex border,
it provides an attractive addition to the checkering as well as cutting away any small
nicks at the edge of the pattern. More than one pass is required to deepen the border and the
work is complete when all of the finish and nicks have been removed. One cutting tool that's not
used much in modern checkering is the flattop checkering cutter. Instead of forming points
on the tops of the diamonds, this tool cuts a narrow square bottom groove and the diamonds
have a flat top. Most all of the cutters are interchangeable and several different handle
designs are available, the main differences are in the shape. Some are straight others are offset and
some have a see-through design. Again, it usually comes down to a matter of personal preference. I
prefer the see-through handle design as it also allows me to adjust the angle of the cutter.
For the beginner, a checkering kit might be a good idea as it contains everything necessary
to cut basic checkering. Then additional cutters and tools can be added as you like